115693G = 1976 115hp Evinrude
With all spark plugs removed, the engine must crank over at least 300 rpm in order for the ignition to be energized.
Using a spark tester whereas a 7/16" "Air Gap" can be set for the spark to jump, the spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
Single cylinder air gap testers are available at auto part stores. A multi cylinder tester can be built as follows:
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(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
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If encountering just one coil failure... one cylinder not firing and you suspect a bad coil...... Simply remove the timer base wire from the powerpack that is firing a good coil... and temporarily attach it to the non firing coil primary wire terminal of the powerpack, then crank the engine over with the tester attached to the spark plug wire. If that coil now fires, then obviously the coil is okay.