Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1985 Evinrude 15 hp Stiff Twist Grip Throttle Control

S

Swarlos

Regular Contributor
I just bought a used 1985 Evinrude 15hp motor (E15RCOB) that had been sitting around for a long time. I've only run the motor for a little while, and as far as I can tell everything is going fine, but the throttle control is very stiff. I took the handle off thinking I would find something there, but it seemed like the handle just connected with a screw to a rod that adjusted the throttle. The rod was just as stiff without the handle on it as it was with the handle on. I found a couple of grease fittings around where the two gears connect (#65 and 66 in Leeroy's Ramblings Picture), but putting grease in there didn't help much. There aren't any broken teeth on the gears yet, but I have a feeling I might break some soon if I can't figure out how to free up the controls.

http://leeroysramblings.com/OB images/twist grip.jpg
 
You sure the armature plate is not gunked up?Old grease will cause it to turn hard.Disconnect the throttle link from it and try that.
 
That problem is simply a matter of finding the physical part that is binding, just a matter of disconnecting one moving part from the other to isolate whichever is jamming.

If you are not mechanically inclined enough to perform that procedure (No offense... some people just aren't), then it would be best to find one that does... explaining to them fully that this is all you want done, that is.... No engine work, just free up the tiller handle from whatever is causing the tightness.
 
joereeves said:
That problem is simply a matter of finding the physical part that is binding, just a matter of disconnecting one moving part from the other to isolate whichever is jamming.

If you are not mechanically inclined enough to perform that procedure (No offense... some people just aren't), then it would be best to find one that does... explaining to them fully that this is all you want done, that is.... No engine work, just free up the tiller handle from whatever is causing the tightness.
Click to expand...

I may end up having someone do the work for me, but I'd like to be able to do it myself. I'll tread carefully and keep what you said in mind. Thanks
 
Swarlos said:
I may end up having someone do the work for me, but I'd like to be able to do it myself. I'll tread carefully and keep what you said in mind. Thanks
Click to expand...

It's really not difficult... other than trying to explain it all. We think you can do it.
 
Let's assume I get everything taken apart. What's the best way to clean off the old stuck grease? Given the second assumption that old stuck grease is the culprit.
 
Usually the culprit is a slight bit of salt corrosion, however... whatever it might be... a sharp knife, a bit of sandpaper, WD40, whatever it takes. Most of us use a solvent called mineral spirits when needed... available at any reliable hardware store.

Apply a bit of twisting motion to the tiller handle shaft and watch closely what moves... and what doesn't. What doesn't normally tells the tale.
 
Last edited:
Swarlos said:
I had been playing with it for awhile when I first put some extra grease in. I don't know what it's called, but it felt like the vertical piece with the arms coming off was the problem (#108 in the diagram above)

Edit: link to diagram http://leeroysramblings.com/OB images/twist grip.jpg
Click to expand...

The gears themselves are removable but I doubt that's it, the verticle piece you were talking about is likely to be the reason but if that doesn't work you might need to take the flywheel off, the stator plate might need some lubing, also check the cables coming from the stator, it might be that they are bunched up and resist the rotation somewhat.
I have recently bought a 1983 15 hp that was remote rigged, the piece you are talking about was worn out as all hell, flopping around like it was barely attached, seems to be a weak spot with these engines.

PS: should you want to remove the gear, the 108 piece you were talking about needs to come off first and then the bottom gear has a plastic piece like a pin,on the inside that you need to pull up which frees up the bottom gear so you can slide it out and pull the top gear out. I just put some lube inside there but beware what lube you use, if it's too sticky it might make it move worse.
 
Last edited:
I think you may be right about the stator plate. It feels like there is some resistance ahead of piece 108 too. I've never taken a flywheel off before, and I don't know what a stator plate is. Is there a resource you can recommend where I can educate myself on all the pieces of the motor?
 
Swarlos said:
I think you may be right about the stator plate. It feels like there is some resistance ahead of piece 108 too. I've never taken a flywheel off before, and I don't know what a stator plate is. Is there a resource you can recommend where I can educate myself on all the pieces of the motor?
Click to expand...

Armature plate. See the "Engine diagrams " tab above.

You will need the correct type of puller to remove the flywheel. Be sure to tighten the retaining nut to the correct torque when refitting.

Before you go any further get yourself a workshop manual.

Th OEM manual is available from Outboardbooks.com. Marine engine sell a Seloc manual which covers your engine. ( A poor substitute for the OEM manual) The Seloc manual can also be found on line on the Boatinfo website ( sorry Marine Engine will not allow a link)
 
Swarlos said:
I think you may be right about the stator plate. It feels like there is some resistance ahead of piece 108 too. I've never taken a flywheel off before, and I don't know what a stator plate is. Is there a resource you can recommend where I can educate myself on all the pieces of the motor?
Click to expand...

Check out Brandon's Garage he has a playlist called johnsson 15 hp rebuild, it tells you almost everything you need to know to rebuild anything on the engine.
 
Back
Top