Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1965 40 hp sea-horse.....Zero spark!

C

cjbrill715

Regular Contributor
I have a 1965 super sea-horse (40 hp)....I'm fairly well aquainted with all the "could be's" regarding what can cause little or no spark in the ignition system under the flywheel, but having looked through everything, it looks pretty good. The coils aren't cracked, the points are cleaned and set.....I guess my main question is, Is there anything in the wiring harness circuitry, cut-out switch, etc. that "could be" giving me any issues in regard to not getting any spark??
I do fully intend to take apart the ignition setup, and freshen everything up with new parts if need be eventually, but i have seen much worse looking ignition setups give at least some spark, and I want to keep the spending to a minimal until I learn a little more. I'm more familiar with the older Johnson's that had far less bells and whistles, just not sure if I'm dealing with a few more "usual suspects" with this motor. Any help would be appreciated. The model number is RDS-27M.
 
I have a 40 ho tohatsu complete with a carb problem and I do also have a Johnson 40 hp without the lower unit , my question is: is there any way I can remove the lower unit from my tohatsu and put it in the Johnson motor? Thank you very much
 
Kleiverth said:
I have a 40 ho tohatsu complete with a carb problem and I do also have a Johnson 40 hp without the lower unit , my question is: is there any way I can remove the lower unit from my tohatsu and put it in the Johnson motor? Thank you very much
Click to expand...

No, not a chance. Two completely different animals. Why not just get a carb rebuild kit, or a new carburetor for the Tohatsu?....Even if the above mentioned idea would work, rebuilding/replacing the Tohatsu carb would be much less work.
 
cjbrill715 said:
I have a 1965 super sea-horse (40 hp)....I'm fairly well aquainted with all the "could be's" regarding what can cause little or no spark in the ignition system under the flywheel, but having looked through everything, it looks pretty good. The coils aren't cracked, the points are cleaned and set.....I guess my main question is, Is there anything in the wiring harness circuitry, cut-out switch, etc. that "could be" giving me any issues in regard to not getting any spark??
I do fully intend to take apart the ignition setup, and freshen everything up with new parts if need be eventually, but i have seen much worse looking ignition setups give at least some spark, and I want to keep the spending to a minimal until I learn a little more. I'm more familiar with the older Johnson's that had far less bells and whistles, just not sure if I'm dealing with a few more "usual suspects" with this motor. Any help would be appreciated. The model number is RDS-27M.
Click to expand...


Alright, not to be a jerk, but can the original question be addressed? This thread got a little side tracked.....
 
Well-----The magneto on the 40 HP is the same as on the 3 / 6 / 9.5 / 10 / 18 / 20 / 25 / 33 hp models.-------Open the connecters on the 2 black wires and see if you get spark.
 
racerone said:
Well-----The magneto on the 40 HP is the same as on the 3 / 6 / 9.5 / 10 / 18 / 20 / 25 / 33 hp models.-------Open the connecters on the 2 black wires and see if you get spark.
Click to expand...

Thank you....Are you refering to the black wires that run to the cut out switch on the side of the motor??....If this gives me spark, does it indicate a faulty/stuck swith or something??....I klnow very little about this type of motor setup....
 
Post #1 indicates that you are familiar with " older Johnsons "-----They all have the same magneto.----Same trouble shooting applies.
 
racerone said:
Post #1 indicates that you are familiar with " older Johnsons "-----They all have the same magneto.----Same trouble shooting applies.
Click to expand...

The point of Post #1 was the fact I'm dealing with a motor that has a wiring harness, with key ignition etc....The "older" motors I'm referring to are 1950's and older, with pull starts, I haven't yet played with an electric start motor besides the one I'm working on now. I guess I should have explained myself better. I'm fully aware that they work the same, I was just wondering if the wiring harness circuitry added another variable or two to the spark dilemma, as the ignition is in the off position, and I don't have the key for it. It's a scrap yard find. There is wiring running from the cutout switch, down to the key ignition, and I'm not sure if that plays a role in the spark delivery or not.....I'm learning.
 
Back
Top