Logo

Volvo Engine ID w\o ID tag

Carolina_OS

New member
Volvo_Engine3.jpgVolvo_Engine2.jpgVolvo_Engine.jpgVolvo_Engine4.jpg

Can anyone identify this engine from the photos? It does not have the riveted tag on rear of engine. It has the vortec heads, crank driven raw water pump. I need hoses and thermostat and cannot find them so far. I need the 140° thermostat, I think. Originally had quadrojet spread-bore, which has been replaced with an adapted Holly. Fuel pump is electric mounted where the mechanical pump would have been.

Thanks,

Phillip
 
this may help. first column is model, second column is hp, third is cylinders, forth is beginning year, and fourth is ending year. It looks like an aq series so that is all I posted

AQ 225B​
225​
8​
1974​
1976​
AQ 225C​
225​
8​
1976​
1977​
AQ 225D​
225​
8​
1977​
1986​
AQ 225E​
225​
8​
1985​
1986​
AQ 225F​
225​
8​
1985​
1986​
AQ 231A​
229​
8​
1986​
1989​
AQ 231B​
229​
8​
1987​
1989​
AQ 240A​
225​
8​
1976​
1977​
AQ 255A​
255​
8​
1977​
1978​
AQ 255B​
255​
8​
1978​
1978​
AQ 260A​
260​
8​
1978​
1985​
AQ 260B​
260​
8​
1985​
1986​
AQ 271A​
270​
8​
1986​
1986​
AQ 271B​
270​
8​
1986​
1986​
AQ 271C​
275​
8​
1986​
1989​
AQ 280A​
280​
8​
1978​
1979​
AQ 290A​
290​
8​
1976​
1985​
AQ 311A​
307​
8​
1986​
1987​
AQ 311B​
307​
8​
1987​
1989​
 
Philip, other than displacement, stat info, hose, etc, what other information are you looking for?

The thermostat should be the 140* if in salt water, and can be a 160* if in river/lake water.


Judging from the rear engine mounts, this would be a BB series GM SBC Volvo Penta.
You can find info via engine model number here.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx

As for displacement, and if this cylinder block is 1987 or later, look at the rear of the engine on the #1, 3, 5 and 7 cylinder side. You will see casting numbers that will indicate either 5.0 or 5.7.

The fitting at the carburetor for the fuel line looks to be an old Aeroquip fitting, of which would not be legal for this application.

The vent hoses at each valve cover can connect to the flame arrestor.


As for the electric fuel pump..... USCG regs require us to incorporate a means of cutting power to the fuel pump in the absence of engine oil pressure.... or more specifically, if the engine was to stop running due to a severed fuel line.
I would check to see if this circuit is in place.

If not, this is fairly easy to do.
You will install a N/O (normally open) Low Oil Pressure switch into the engine's oiling system.The LOP switch (
when approx 4 to 6 psi oil pressure is achieved) will trigger a relay.
The relay will then power the fuel pump.
In the absence of 4 to 6 psi oil pressure, the relay will drop out of the loop, and the fuel pump will stop working.

That covers the safety feature.

Now you will need a means of powering the fuel pump prior to engine oil pressure.

Two ways to do this:

1 ..... a start-by-pass circuit that uses the starter motor solenoid circuit to temporarily trigger the relay.
2 ..... a momentary helm switch (must be "momentary") that will temporarily trigger the relay.

#2 allows the operator to prime the fuel delivery system without cranking the engine over.
In the long run, this will extend starter motor and battery life.
 
Last edited:
Philip, other than displacement, stat info, hose, etc, what other information are you looking for?

The thermostat should be the 140* if in salt water, and can be a 160* if in river/lake water.


Judging from the rear engine mounts, this would be a BB series GM SBC Volvo Penta.
You can find info via engine model number here.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx

As for displacement, and if this cylinder block is 1987 or later, look at the rear of the engine on the #1, 3, 5 and 7 cylinder side. You will see casting numbers that will indicate either 5.0 or 5.7.

The fitting at the carburetor for the fuel line looks to be an old Aeroquip fitting, of which would not be legal for this application.

The vent hoses at each valve cover can connect to the flame arrestor.


As for the electric fuel pump..... USCG regs require us to incorporate a means of cutting power to the fuel pump in the absence of engine oil pressure.... or more specifically, if the engine was to stop running due to a severed fuel line.
I would check to see if this circuit is in place.

If not, this is fairly easy to do.
You will install a N/O (normally open) Low Oil Pressure switch into the engine's oiling system.The LOP switch (
when approx 4 to 6 psi oil pressure is achieved) will trigger a relay.
The relay will then power the fuel pump.
In the absence of 4 to 6 psi oil pressure, the relay will drop out of the loop, and the fuel pump will stop working.

That covers the safety feature.

Now you will need a means of powering the fuel pump prior to engine oil pressure.

Two ways to do this:

1 ..... a start-by-pass circuit that uses the starter motor solenoid circuit to temporarily trigger the relay.
2 ..... a momentary helm switch (must be "momentary") that will temporarily trigger the relay.

#2 allows the operator to prime the fuel delivery system without cranking the engine over.
In the long run, this will extend starter motor and battery life.

Rick, thanks for the reply. I will check into the safety issues you mentioned. It looks like Holly has the pump cutoff relay you mentioned.

I’m still confused about the engine dating. This engine has the Vortec heads and intake. It is my understanding that the Vortec engine was not available in the Chevrolet truck until 1996. I’m not sure when it made its way into the marine application, but it would seem to have been sometime after 1996. The raw water pump and transmission are probably original to boat, but engine must be later.
I pulled up most of the part schematics on the link you provided and so far, I have not seen any which have the crankshaft driven raw water pump. The hoses seem to Be exclusive to that pump, because non of the ones shown look anything like my set up.
i appreciate your time in responding and am interested in whether you might have further thoughts with this new information.

Thanks,

Phillip
 
......
Rick, thanks for the reply.
You are welcome!

I will check into the safety issues you mentioned. It looks like Holly has the pump cutoff relay you mentioned.
The N/O Low Oil Pressure switch and the relay would be for the electric fuel pump circuit.

I’m still confused about the engine dating. This engine has the Vortec heads and intake.
The Vortec cylinder heads and intake manifold can be fit to an earlier cylinder block.
By the way, the Vortec cylinder heads cannot offer their maximum efficiency when used with the GM full dished pistons.


It is my understanding that the Vortec engine was not available in the Chevrolet truck until 1996. I’m not sure when it made its way into the marine application, but it would seem to have been sometime after 1996.
Correct. They first appeared in the auto engines in 1996.

The raw water pump and transmission are probably original to boat, but engine must be later.
Could be the original engine with the Vortec cylinder heads, or it could be a later complete engine.
Look at the rear area for the cast-in numbers. If you cannot see this area, push a piece of molding clay onto the area, pull it out and read it in a mirror.


Your seawater pump is a Johnson. It may be the F5B-9 or the F6B-9.


I pulled up most of the part schematics on the link you provided and so far, I have not seen any which have the crankshaft driven raw water pump.
All BB series used the crankshaft pump. Not until later did they use the belt driven seawater pump.
The crankshaft pump is a much better system! No belt tension side load on the pump's shaft.
If you pull the impeller out during winterizing, you can extend it's life.

The hoses seem to Be exclusive to that pump, because non of the ones shown look anything like my set up.
The suction hoses must be collapse proof.
The supply hoses does not need to be!

i appreciate your time in responding and am interested in whether you might have further thoughts with this new information.
If you wouldn't mind being more specific as to what you are wanting to do, I would be better able to help you.
 
Thanks again, Rick.

I was able to find the casting numbers and they are 5.7L 10243880. According to the Chevy folks, that would make it a 1996-2000 Vortec Crate engine. That’s probably why there is no Volvo-Penta plate.

I really was just curious as what I had, since it appeared to be a repower.

6CF650A6-4F14-43EC-9C93-1EF78077D7D2.jpg2C861128-0454-4FB0-8BB7-075F30A09ABD.jpg
Do you by any chance know the part numbers for the two larger cooling hoses. Mine are very soft and beginning to bulge a bit. I also need a 140 degree thermostat, and I’m not sure which one is correct. There appears to be two different types for the Volvo engines. One appears to look similar to an automotive type and one seems to have a longer section for the spring mechanism.

What oil would you recommend for this engine? If supposedly has around 900 hours, but is showing no signs of smoking.

Thanks,
Phillip
 
Do you by any chance know the part numbers for the two larger cooling hoses. Mine are very soft and beginning to bulge a bit. I also need a 140 degree thermostat, and I’m not sure which one is correct. There appears to be two different types for the Volvo engines. One appears to look similar to an automotive type and one seems to have a longer section for the spring mechanism.

Phillip, look here under the cooling section for the BB series engines.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7744020.aspx

Also look here under the cooling section for the BB series engines.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7743320.aspx


Volvo Penta thermostat 876305 options:

https://www.marinepartssource.com/t...D_zI0MjtnBqlAlkb2gXw-CEdPIq__GTcaAtYvEALw_wcB


[FONT=&quot]SIERRA-18-3662 [/FONT]
 
Back
Top