93 Evinrude 200 Wont Rev Past 3000 RPMS

Disconnect the black/yellow wire at the shift interrupter switch. Switch may be malfunctioning.

When this takes effect (normally if overheating), the starboard bank ignition is knocked out which should drop the rpms to 2500... BUT... your tachometer may be slightly off. Worth looking at!

Thank you. The shift interrupt switch wires are cut at the switch near the linkage. This was done by previous owner. When I get home today I will open the power pack and make sure that that cable is properly disconnected in there as well.

Disconnect your tach and retest. If your timing advance is working that engine should run away in neutral with timing alone.

Thank you. I’m not sure what disconnecting the tach. would do. I have no problem against trying it, but just curious what that would show.


Also do you mean disconnect at the actual gauge? Or at the connector under the powerpack?

Thank you again

JerEazy said:

Thank you. I’m not sure what disconnecting the tach. would do. I have no problem against trying it, but just curious what that would show.


Also do you mean disconnect at the actual gauge? Or at the connector under the powerpack?

Thank you again

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When you have an un-explainable issue, you disconnect all peripheral devices to eliminate an unseen possibility.

I would disconnect it at the pack and take the whole circuit out of the equation.

There have been many times a tach will cause running issues and since I think you have an ignition issue, the tach is part of your ignition system.

Roger that. Getting into it this evening to double check connections under there. will test that out.

half of my wiring diagram got messed up testing yesterday - so you know off hand which wire that would be?

Docksidemarineservices said:

When you have an un-explainable issue, you disconnect all peripheral devices to eliminate an unseen possibility. I would disconnect it at the pack and take the whole circuit out of the equation.
There have been many times a tach will cause running issues and since I think you have an ignition issue, the tach is part of your ignition system.

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The tachometer operates off of the engine's six (6) pulse alternator charging system. What am I missing here whereas the ignition system would be affected?

joereeves said:

The tachometer operates off of the engine's six (6) pulse alternator charging system. What am I missing here whereas the ignition system would be affected?

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Can't explain that Joereeves, I know the Tach is reading pulses of the charging side, It is just something I do when I cannot explain a symptom that is happening. Its my Mercury DTS Comm Error mind set, I make everything stand alone to remove any possible variable, If it is not needed to make the system function, delete it for testing.

I wasn’t able to do any repairs or testing tonight. But as I said, I’m going under the power pack and rechecking connections, it’ll just have to be tomorrow.

Im extremely open for any other suggestions to check things while I work.

fuel pump (VRO Delete fuel pump from Offshore Marine)​

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I would check this as haven't seen many of these kits work successfully on 90° looper motors. It could be fuel starvation and pushing in primer wouldnt help as not enough supply. If you still have old pump use it and block off oil side to test.

faztbullet said:

I would check this as haven't seen many of these kits work successfully on 90° looper motors. It could be fuel starvation and pushing in primer wouldnt help as not enough supply. If you still have old pump use it and block off oil side to test.

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I had a similar thought - I’m glad I kept the old pump. It’s the first thing I’m going to try before I yank the flywheel off.

Thanks you

Does that motor Have S.L.O.W on it? Was the VRO still plugged into the harness?

It does have SLOW but I did the slow test as per CDI’s troubleshoot and it did not change.

The VRO harness is not plugged in. The new fuel pump does not have the harness

Did you check the diodes in the harness?

No sir - and I’m not completely sure how I would do that

Get a wiring diagram and a diode tester.

Fuel pump ruled out. Swapped old pump back in the same result.

I couldn’t get the flywheel off because the walls of my 36mm were too thick. 2 stops and no dice.

But, I was able to do a static ohm test on the stator, which (from what I’ve read) should read between 900-1000. Both failed. And upon closer inspection once the power pack was off, there is a collection of goo at the back end.

could the stator be causing this issue?

Docksidemarineservices said:

Disconnect your tach and retest. If your timing advance is working that engine should run away in neutral with timing alone.

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Leaking stator is not a good thing. Your issue is definitely ignition related. Me personally, I would change everything at once. CDI had offered a complete kit at one time.

Make sure your timer base is free and rotating easily, some make the mistake of applying grease.

Grind down that socket, it will fit.

A bad rectifier is usually the cause of stator failures as it overheats windings. DO NOT USE THE CDI Digital kit as it has never worked, it makes engine a battery cd system!! Use Serria or Mallory replacements...

Ok - we’ll the stator arrives tomorrow - and it is a CDI unit. If that fixes the RPM issue I’ll get a rectifier ASAP.

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(Stator "35amp" Melt Down)
(J. Reeves)

The usual characteristic or sympton pertaining to an engine that has a stator melting down is that it will have spark when cold, but will have weak or no spark when hot. Many engines will run fine at first, but after being shut down, then attempting to restart 30 minutes or so later will not start. However, after sitting and cooling down, the engine may once more start and run. Eventually the stator will fail altogether resulting in no ignition/spark even when fully cooled.

This pertains mainly to the 35amp charging stator BUT this problem has also affected other smaller ampere stators. Make a note that the stator on engines manufactured in and after 1973 are two fold components. There are a series of smaller coils which deliver AC voltage to the rectifier, the rectifier converts that voltage to DC voltage to charge the battery. There are larger coils that deliver AC voltage to the powerpack capacitor in order to energize the ignition.

The 35 ampere stator has two (2) large black coils located (usually) at the rear of the stator. This 35 amp stator runs extremely hot and even though the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier may be in perfect working order, this type stator will in time have what is called a "Melt Down". This is when those two large black coils start to drip a sticky substance down upon the timer base and the powerhead. The result is that the outgoing AC voltage to the powerpack capacitor drops, and this in turn results in weak ignition and eventually no ignition.

If a rectifier on any horsepower engine has failed (keeping it simple), this results in having the voltage back up at the stator causing the stator to overheat, which in turn causes a stator melt down.
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Thank you Joe - after reading that I have concerns. Because I’m not having trouble starting hot or cold - and the issue is persistent regardless of engine temp.

Are you implying it’s likely not that stator?

delete - duplicate

JerEazy said:

Thank you Joe - after reading that I have concerns. Because I’m not having trouble starting hot or cold - and the issue is persistent regardless of engine temp. Are you implying it’s likely not that stator?

And in the earlier post #19, you state:
But, I was able to do a static ohm test on the stator, which (from what I’ve read) should read between 900-1000. Both failed. And upon closer inspection once the power pack was off, there is a collection of goo at the back end.

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At the back end of that stator are the two (2) large coils that supply approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack's capacitor and having them melt down eventually is an eventuality, meaning it is just a matter of time!

And this is what you are describing..... What I am saying is that "I am implying that the stator is failing, melting down, and should be replaced regardless of what readings you may get from it or how it is acting at the time."

Your mention of the "goo" at the rear portion of it proves that. It may not be the whole problem you're troubleshooting at the present... BUT... it is, at least, one of them. If it were me, replacing the stator would be at the top of my list after seeing "goo" dripping down from it.

Roger that - will post results tomorrow

There is a series of things that happen to make stator "goo" First is weak impeller as it may "look" like it pee's good but block never fully fills to cover heat sinks on bottom of rect/reg at idle.(a 90° V-6 holds over 4 gallons of water) Motors spend 60% of their time at idle and rect/reg has to dump the excessive voltage as heat. When it cannot cool resistance goes up and stator cools start to warm up. Over time this produces "goo" and stator failures/problems. I have customers with late 80's looper which I serve yearly that have stators with no 'goo' . So I don't quite buy into its a matter of time scenario but more of a maintain on time issue. Also you stated you repaired carbs...by chance did you pull throttle bodies??? If so check to see if bottom 2 bodies are fully opening as the linkage can slip between the shafts. I am leaning that you have a bad pack, its getting false signal to activate rev limiter or it thinks it getting hot and drops into slow.

Perhaps there are issues with crankshaft sealing rings / crankcase compression ??

Amazing. 3 of the magnets under the flywheel came loose and were crammed together on one side of the flywheel next to a magnet that held its ground.

never seen that before.