So after a few weeks of rain, work, more rain then work and the Seahawks losing. I gotta good day to tear this thing apart. Carbs came off, got the manifold off, and removed the oil cooler. Then started on the head. Everything came apart surprisingly well, marked all the baggies as I removed the parts in order.
Popped off the head, and the gasket stayed on the block. Some water poured out the back end with lots of chunky corrosion at the water channels some almost completely blocked. Gasket came off easy, with a little prying. To me no real signs of a blown head gasket not that I would really know. Took the head & gasket to a auto shop which is not far from me, and they have worked on my vehicles good people. The guy looks and says the gasket and head look suspicious, suggested I take it to a machine shop to look at and get magnafluxed. <spell check that.
So I get to the one he suggested and it's a guy I sold a hot tub to 15 years ago, nice guy! He said the gasket is slightly blown by the number 1 cylinder and is fairly sure it is probably not the problem of water in the oil. But he said he could be wrong. He can resurface it and the manifold side for 60 bucks. The first head bolt I removed forward under the rocker arm where he mentioned, the threads were dry and rusted? The rest looked good with some oil on them.
I get home and look at the cylinders for scaring which the auto guy suggested and everything looks good, no gouges or scrapes. I took a shop vac and sucked the water passages out, general cleaning of crap and dug a bit in there with a long screwdriver, lots of crap in the btm water channels that seems like I could dig out for awhile. but they are not terrible I guess from water flow stand point. I still could not get the block drain to drain out, it just drips slowly.
I took the oil cooler apart and the o-rings are not round but kinda flattened out and odd shaped. And the o-ring at the end was flat. There was clean water inside the tube area and ends that drained out, but the internal oil from the btm of the oil cooler that came out was milk. Could the o rings actually be the issue? Still can't see how the water could get to the oil, o-rings bad or not?
Machine shop guy is crazy busy, but I think for the price and what he was telling me. Let him do what he does, order a new manifold and head gasket. Get the oil cooler checked, if bad try and find a replacement. (might be difficult) order a new o-ring kit for it if needed guessing so from what I see. Replacing the seals/impeller on the water pump just because, put it all back together and see what I get in the spring or sooner depending how fast things move.
Last note, the auto guy suggested get all the pistons at the same level in cylinders and fill with denatured alcohol and see if the "oil rings" are leaking. Ricardo thoughts on this, suggestions or any thoughts on the other wonderful things I came up with?
Ricardo. I know your probably saying don't waste the money on this, but were talking 150 to 200 maybe. I am willing to take one more chance and see what I get. Worse case I get water in the oil again, and at that point assuming it's a cracked block or not sure what else at that point?
Thanks again! Jim
Popped off the head, and the gasket stayed on the block. Some water poured out the back end with lots of chunky corrosion at the water channels some almost completely blocked. Gasket came off easy, with a little prying. To me no real signs of a blown head gasket not that I would really know. Took the head & gasket to a auto shop which is not far from me, and they have worked on my vehicles good people. The guy looks and says the gasket and head look suspicious, suggested I take it to a machine shop to look at and get magnafluxed. <spell check that.
So I get to the one he suggested and it's a guy I sold a hot tub to 15 years ago, nice guy! He said the gasket is slightly blown by the number 1 cylinder and is fairly sure it is probably not the problem of water in the oil. But he said he could be wrong. He can resurface it and the manifold side for 60 bucks. The first head bolt I removed forward under the rocker arm where he mentioned, the threads were dry and rusted? The rest looked good with some oil on them.
I get home and look at the cylinders for scaring which the auto guy suggested and everything looks good, no gouges or scrapes. I took a shop vac and sucked the water passages out, general cleaning of crap and dug a bit in there with a long screwdriver, lots of crap in the btm water channels that seems like I could dig out for awhile. but they are not terrible I guess from water flow stand point. I still could not get the block drain to drain out, it just drips slowly.
I took the oil cooler apart and the o-rings are not round but kinda flattened out and odd shaped. And the o-ring at the end was flat. There was clean water inside the tube area and ends that drained out, but the internal oil from the btm of the oil cooler that came out was milk. Could the o rings actually be the issue? Still can't see how the water could get to the oil, o-rings bad or not?
Machine shop guy is crazy busy, but I think for the price and what he was telling me. Let him do what he does, order a new manifold and head gasket. Get the oil cooler checked, if bad try and find a replacement. (might be difficult) order a new o-ring kit for it if needed guessing so from what I see. Replacing the seals/impeller on the water pump just because, put it all back together and see what I get in the spring or sooner depending how fast things move.
Last note, the auto guy suggested get all the pistons at the same level in cylinders and fill with denatured alcohol and see if the "oil rings" are leaking. Ricardo thoughts on this, suggestions or any thoughts on the other wonderful things I came up with?
Ricardo. I know your probably saying don't waste the money on this, but were talking 150 to 200 maybe. I am willing to take one more chance and see what I get. Worse case I get water in the oil again, and at that point assuming it's a cracked block or not sure what else at that point?
Thanks again! Jim
