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Qd-14 1953

M

Mikey N.C.

Advanced Contributor
Customer brought in 1953 QD-14 10 hp. Motor runs at idle only if you try and give gas it starts bogging down but come back to idle and will idle all day long, it had 2 different spark plugs replaced with j6c/ autolite 302, replaced all fuel lines on motor,had 95 an 90 psi compression,made a rubber gasket for mile master fuel tank, used farret timing light to check plug wires for losing spark was good ,still has original twin lines from tank to motor( original quick connector to motor) the A pressure pump on tank gets tight and stays tight,has sprayed carb cleaner on power head gasket, inspection plate covers and reed valve/carb gasket no change.. Can not find any parts for this carb. this carb. has high speed jet adjustable on port side, idle jet in front on top. Is it possible the twin lines are bad, primer/choke plunger is sucking air. Removed carb. bowl had to make new gasket, float has a horizontal meddle. The float is plastic, would have thought it would be cork.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Customer wanted to take grandpa for a ride on 95th birthday
 
All, as in All, 1953 Johnsons have bad (cracked) coils unless they have already been replaced. Sure, it might also have other problems too, but you are wasting your time till you at least look at those coils. Have you?
 
Mikey. Sounds like a carb problem. Idles all day long but bogs at high speed then there is a restriction in the high speed side of carb. Needle is damaged or broken? Something lodged in the seat area. Maybe you already checked coils......pretty much a "given" on these. Rarely ever seen a problem with the primer pumps on these systems. Worked on lots of them and own about 35 of these old timers with the double line, (pressure), tanks. I use 'em, I trust 'em, and love 'em. Take grandpa out now. The best all around outboard ever made......but just MY opinion.
 
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"O" rings in fuel hose connector replaced? Fuel filter inside of the glass bowl cleaned or replaced? Does pumping the primer help the high speed operation. Tank is building up pressure??? Hope Grandpa doesn't have to wait until his 96th birthday to take a ride.
 
Just looking thru my factory copy of the QD-14 1953 10hp Johnson Parts Manual, mainly the carburetor section... yeah, I recall working on those things back when they were about nine or ten years old. The carburetors have really been simplified since then haven't they?
 
Sold new for 270 bucks. Shift on the front, why should you have to reach around to the side of the motor? It's like.....DAH! I have 6 of these exact models. Should I have the choice of 1 motor to be stuck with out in the middle of the Canadian wilderness. Yup, you guessed it. But I have old fashioned views, why? I just simply trust brilliant engineering.
Do you think for 1 minute that in the year 2085, a 2019 Yamaha will still be running, with parts available? Why should a 10 horse have to weigh 90 lbs.?
 
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Checked coils , coils , 2 sets of points and condensers all look to have been replaced not long ago, also looked at points cam bushing and woodruf key that holds cam bushing all looked good. Hooked up fuel pressure gauge inline before carb had about 6-8 while idling and a steady 6 after motor was off. The oldest book I have is 1956 it doesn't cover that carb has a little about mile master tank but not much. I'm beginning to think I have read problem.
When at idle when you turn tiller handle it's like noting happens, handle turns points,coil plate under flywheel it trys to pick u rpm but then goes back to idle. Is 6-8 enough fuel pressure ?
THANKS.
 
This carb doesn't have glass bowl on bottom high and low knobs are in front but high speed jet is on port side the old book I have doesn't have this carb only carbs with high and low in front
 
Unlikely the crank seal, wrong symptoms. Reed's.....no, wrong symptoms. Fuel pressure? Fine. How did you set the float level? This could be your problem.
 
No floats in my arsenal, but I do recondition them. To check float level have float chamber complete with mounted float in your hand. Leave inlet tube open and hold level over a cup or something. Fill from above slowly with gas just until inlet tube stops dripping. Note that float has risen to shut off inlet. This will be your operating fuel level. This procedure takes into account the condition of the float and its ability to do its job. I like to see a nearly level float at this point and plenty of fuel in the float bowl, perhaps 3/8th to 1/4th inch below the rim of the chamber.
 
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Thanks for that info. Will check that Monday morning
Oh also , I'm running in a barrel of water and there seems to be alot of oil skim in water.
 
Mikey N.C. said:
Thanks for that info. Will check that Monday morning
Oh also , I'm running in a barrel of water and there seems to be alot of oil skim in water.
Click to expand...

Yep, nasty in the barrel is normal. Today's generation just doesn't understand. But that's just the way it was, back in "The Day".
 
About that float: You got the wrong one in there. Correct float is 375619. Newer models used 375919. Note 619 vs 919. 375919 is superseded by 396514 black Nitrophyl float. Appears the part number has confused somebody and they put a 396514 in there (WRONG).
 
Update QD-14,
Being carb is fixed to reed plate cover, when carb and reed plate was removed , old gasket torn.
I tried using permatex fuel resistant blue gasket maker with old gasket. Didn't work started leaking fuel and sucking air. I was also using fel-pro 3060 for bowl gaskets I was making ( doesn't work) you need cork.. I want to thank timguy for all info. Especially old parts manual. I was able to use original part #, to search. I took a 5 hp 92 float and screwed horizontal arm for needle .set float as was told by Tim and set idle and high speed needles as told by j Reeves. I found cork bowl gasket at vintage motors.com. with parts # from manual that timguy sent, was able to goggle part #'s . Found reed gasket and primer o- ring at boats.net. Took 3 weeks to get everything. I ended up replacing twin fuel , air line with the polaris yellow line. Cranks and runs like a champ . Now I also disconnected gas -pulse line from quick connect, an ran straight to motor, couldn't find o-rings for quick connect. It's passed grandpa's 95 birthday but grandson said he's still getting a ride�� so THANKS to every one. Think I left out gator. Thanks.
I believe the problem was primer o-ring sucking air past plunger. Thanks again .
 
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