Logo

4.5L 200hp winterizing

If equipped, use caution with the single point drain systems. These do not allow us to probe the openings as to clear any rust scale from the ports.

Understand that just plain ole Air will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components.
In other words, don't get too excited about adding anti-freeze to the cooling jackets/passages.
The risk is dilution in the event that not all seawater was drained.
If you do add anti-freeze, I would suggest that you drain it again afterwards.
 
Iron plus moisture plus air equals rust.

Iron protected by anti freeze that excludes air prevents rust.

Your choice.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the info. Can I pour the anti freeze in the opening where I removed the upper blue “vent” plug on the single point drain system?? Also, in your opinion, does the single point drain system get all the water out if I ensure the boat is level on the trailer??
 
Jeff, I think that people tend to make more out of this than need be.
Here's my take on this:

Keep in mind that during the boating season, no anti-freeze is in the raw water cooling system.... just plain ole oxygen laden, rust and corrosion causing seawater!

The amount of rust scale that can occur during the lay up period (cooling jackets dry) is paled by comparison to that of which occurs during the boating season.

And if an owner makes one mistake regarding dilution..... they are crying the blues come spring time! It happens every year!

Also, say a big NO to these:

Camco winterizing kit no no  .jpg
 
Last edited:
................
Thanks for the info. Can I pour the anti freeze in the opening where I removed the upper blue “vent” plug on the single point drain system??
Post a few pictures of your system.
In general, for those who are doing this, they are most likely introducing the anti-freeze via the thermostat housing.

If you are absolutely certain that ALL Seawater has been drained, then your anti-freeze protection will very likely be OK.

Also, in your opinion, does the single point drain system get all the water out if I ensure the boat is level on the trailer??
Read what you can regarding complaints about the single point drain systems, then make your own decision.
For me...... I would remove that silly system!
 
Jeff,

If you are not sure how to do this, pay a pro to do it for you. Replacing a 4.5 engine will be very expensive. The exhaust manifolds alone are $$$.

Is your engine Fresh water cooled or Raw water cooled?


Do not leave your engine empty without antifreeze. Post #3 is accurate for a raw water cooled engine. There is always water sitting somewhere and you will have damage if you do not use antifreeze.
 
Last edited:
Add anti-freeze to your Raw Water Cooled engine if it gives you that "feel good" feeling.
Note that Anti-freeze may become diluted by any residual seawater.
If you drain it again afterwards, you will ensure that you weren't left with any pocket area dilution!

As said.... just plain ole AIR will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components!
Never has.... and never will!
 
Add anti-freeze to your Raw Water Cooled engine if it gives you that "feel good" feeling.
Note that Anti-freeze may become diluted by any residual seawater.
If you drain it again afterwards, you will ensure that you weren't left with any pocket area dilution!

As said.... just plain ole AIR will not freeze expand and crack our expensive cast iron components!
Never has.... and never will!

A little dilution is better than straight water any day, especially in the fuel cool system.
 
Back
Top