2007 Honda bf225 no spark

What are some reasons why I’m getting no spark on all my coils? Did all the coils go bad at once? Pulled plugs and 5 of them the tips where dirty white and one plug the tip was brown.

Could this be because of a bad ECU? I’ve checked all the fuses
I can and they are good. Wire connections are good.
Motor cranks over but is not getting spark.

Any ideas where to start testing or looking, would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

It's very rare that these ECU's fail. How do you know that you are not getting pulses to your coils?

I think that these coils are activated by a negative pulse from the ECU. With the key switch on, you should get voltage between the #3 prong of the coil plug and engine ground.

When you turn on the key switch does the MIL light briefly come on and you get two beeps from the alarm?

Is your kill switch clip inserted correctly? Pull the clip and exercise the kill switch a bunch of times, then reinsert clip and try to start.

Check the fuses with an ohm meter. Each should have nearly zero resistance. Especially check fuses 3, 4, 6, and 7. #6 directly feeds to the ignition coils.

As chawk said, No6 fuse supplies a constant 12V to the all the coils through the Yel/blue wire. The most obvious and may seem seem silly, is your lanyard clipped in, if it is, try disconnecting the kill switch. Going back to voltage supply to the coils. if there is no voltage at the coil or the N06 fuse, the main relay may have failed, not uncommon.

Well I was finally was able to get the boat over to my buddies shop late evening yesterday. He had me crank the motor over. No start as we know. We could hear a knock knock. First thought was a rod knock. I thought it sounded like something was knocking against plastic. We checked the timing belt and it was shredded. The belt tensioner bearing desintagrated. Part of the belt was slapping the cover. This caused the motor to jump timing.
Thats as far as we went last night with diagnosing the motor.
Hopefully this did not damage the interfering valves. I was running about 3000-3500 rpm when motor died. Fingers crossed.
Oredering and replacing with new parts for both motors.
Its basically my fault this happened. Should of checked under cover more than once or twice a year. A simple belt tensioner may have done serious damage.
If anyone has any other recommendations for the upcoming work procedure of timing belt area that would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you guys for all your help.
Will keep posting updates as work progresses.

Also guys I’ve been purchasing a lot of my parts from Partspak.com
I like their site with the parts diagram for everything you need but do you recommend another site for better prices? This repair can potentially be very expensive.

Well that's a little different to no spark. That's going to be heads off, you will have bent valves since you have turned the motor with incorrect valve timing.

For genuine parts, try Boatsnet, Megazip, and Impex Japan. Priced dearest to cheapest usually, but not always, depends on the part, you have to check.

Bob

The parts diagrams for Honda outboards are the same everywhere. Here in the US I've had the best experience with www.boats.net. They're competitively priced, fast shipping, and generally helpful. They are also good on taking returns.

I have had this same exact problem on my 200 before. It's a mess, especially if your valves get bent. I had to replace all 24 valves with new seals. You will get to know that outboard very well once you pull off both heads

Do you remember how many teeth it jumped out of time? My mechanic said if it jumped less than 3 teeth I might be ok. Waiting for parts to come in. Hopefully will be able to work on it this weekend.
im prepared for having to do valve job on both heads but really hoping I don’t have to.

I ordered my parts from partspak. I checked boats.net and a couple others and partspak was the cheapest by a few bucks on each part.

Scottinline1 said:

Do you remember how many teeth it jumped out of time? My mechanic said if it jumped less than 3 teeth I might be ok. Waiting for parts to come in. Hopefully will be able to work on it this weekend.
im prepared for having to do valve job on both heads but really hoping I don’t have to.

Click to expand...

Im not sure, but I was doing over 5000 rpm. Prepare for the worst and buy oem parts. I got mine from boats.net

Pulled heads and doing new valves,guides,seals etc.

Do you have to use new head bolts or can you reuse original head bolts? Motor has 420 hours.

Suggest new head bolts. On these big V engines, once you torque down the head bolts to spec, they are slightly deformed. That's what I learned dealing with "big iron" engines, so it might be different with the aluminum head engines.

That's old school, so listen to what others may have to say. If I were doing it, there would be new head bolts and a very good torque wrench.

When it's all said and done (parts & labor time), it's not worth skimping on the head bolts. Mine looked fine, but Im sure microscopically they weren't true and probably stretched. Make sure you replace your entire pulley system on the timing belt.

I’m changing all the pulleys and belts on both motors. A $30 pulley bearing is what caused $3000 in damage.
Guys check your pulley bearings. Mine looked fine in appearance but was corroded on the inside and made the timing belt slip just enough to bend all the valves.
Only have 400 hours on motors.
Ordering new head bolts.
Thank you guys for all the great info!
This site is great.