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BF225 Issue

You don't give very much information. Does it do this as soon as you open the throttle full ? If not, how long before it does? Have you tried doing a cylinder drop test, if you have a cracked coil pack it will miss fire erratically ? Does it play up whether the engine is hot or cold? Will it rev above 3000rpm or not? Running an engine to a high RPM in neutral does not normally reveal an issue, you should only do this under load.
 
You don't give very much information. Does it do this as soon as you open the throttle full ? If not, how long before it does? Have you tried doing a cylinder drop test, if you have a cracked coil pack it will miss fire erratically ? Does it play up whether the engine is hot or cold? Will it rev above 3000rpm or not? Running an engine to a high RPM in neutral does not normally reveal an issue, you should only do this under load.

Sorry I didn't give more info. Here are the answers:

Have not tried cylinder drop test.
It does it as soon as I hit 3000 rpms but I was able to get it up to 4000 rpms one time and it ran fine for about 10 seconds before it started again.
Dont know if it does it cold. I always try to warm it up for about 5 min before I run them.

Thank you for you help!
 
Did you replace the high pressure filter on the vapour separator ? It does sound like a fuel issue, have you got a fuel pressure gauge so that you can check pressure under way?
 
Did you replace the high pressure filter on the vapour separator ? It does sound like a fuel issue, have you got a fuel pressure gauge so that you can check pressure under way?

That is what I'm thinking as well. My HP fuel pump went out on my other motor last summer, so I replaced the VST. It was only about $200 more than just the pump and the drain screw was messed up. I guess I'm probably due on this motor. I picked up a new VST, figuring I would need to swap it out eventually since both drain screws were trashed by prior owner. I replaced the HP filter when it started this a few weeks ago.

I dont have a pressure guage. Maybe an auto parts store has one to lend or harbor freight has a generic kit that will work. I also have the service manual, so I'll read up on it first.

Thanks for the help!
 
If you have not already done so and assuming it's a fuel feed issue, start with the basics.

Have you completely drained the VST? If not do so. Charge the fuel pressure by turning on your key switch just before draining the VST. Briefly turn it on again when it looks like the VST is about completely drained in order to flush out any remaining sediment.

Loosen the cap on your fuel tank and see if that helps run better.

When acting up, feel the primer bulb to make sure it is not partially collapsed. If so, you may have a clogged pick up tube in the fuel tank or a failing check valve in the primer bulb.

Pump the primer bulb while engine is acting up and see if that helps. If so, you may need to inspect or replace the low pressure fuel pump.

When engine is acting up, observe the sight bowl on the low pressure fuel filter to make sure it is at least 1/4 full.

Run a clear plastic tube from you primer bulb to the on-board fuel/water separator and look for air bubbles when engine is acting up. If not, run that same clear plastic hose from the LP fuel filter to the LP fuel pump and look for air bubbles.

And as Ian suggested check fuel pressure. You will need a 6 mm adapter for your fuel pressure gauge.
 
I cant drain the VST due to the screw being messed up. I did the gas cap thing when it started this issue, with no change. Then I changed all the filters and dumped the onboard feul bowls, no water or sentiments. Both bowls stayed full when I ran it yesterday. Do you know where can I get a 6mm adapter on a Saturday without running all over town? Do you know if a pressure guage for a Honda car will work?

Thank you very much for the suggestions!!
 
Most of the big box auto supply parts stores should have the 6 mm adapter. Did you check the primer bulb for collapsing?

Also, check your fuel line where it goes through the big black grommet as it enter the engine compartment. Several folks have reported crimping or collapsing of the fuel line in that area.

Draining that VST is pretty important, so you're probably going to end up removing it any way. When reinstalling, be sure to set the float level as the manual describes.
 
Yeah, replacing the VST is what I figured I would need to do anyway. Primer bulb seemed fine. No harder or softer than the other motor.

Just for ****s and giggles, I may swap out the coils with the other motor and run it to see if that may be why its falling on its face @ 3000 rpms. I live on a lake and its in the water now so that may be a long shot but worth a try for a lucky 5 min fix.

BTW, I redid the fuel lines when I changed filters 2 weeks ago. The prior owner had the fuel lines running straight to the on-motor water separator bowl, so I bought the oem lines that go from the bowl out of the grommet and barbed it to the fuel line from the racor and fuel bulb.
 
Okay, ignition coils are fine so I got a buddy to ride with me and squeeze the bulb when it started skipping and that cleared it up. The thing is, it would skip as we were running while he squeezed the bulb, but if I went back to neutral and then started back up, it ran perfect for a min or so then start skipping. Pulled racor and dumped it, no water. So I'm thinking either pickup in the tank or LP or HP fuel pump.

BTW, bulb did not collapse, just after running well then soft when skipping started. Anything I'm missing?

Thanks for all the help!!

Byrdman
 
Check the fuel line where it runs through the rigging grommet and check that it hasn't been crushed or kinked

Thanks! I did a little, but I'm going to dig in there a little deeper tomorrow. I did switch the fuel lines on the motors so they would draw from opposite tanks and it didnt make a difference, so at least I know the problem is somewher from the racors to the motors.

I'll update in the AM!

Thanks again!!
 
That's great!

Remember to drain that VST whenever you pull your 100 hour maintenance and at the beginning and end of each boating season. And the next time you have a chance, put some anti-seize grease on the threads of the screw that opens up the VST drain.
 
That's great!

Remember to drain that VST whenever you pull your 100 hour maintenance and at the beginning and end of each boating season. And the next time you have a chance, put some anti-seize grease on the threads of the screw that opens up the VST drain.

Will do!!
 
Hi.
What was the price of the full vst ?
where did you buy it from ?

i need to change my VST cover and needle float and I might as well just buy the full VST if the proce is good
 
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