Honda BF10D

What is the outlet hole forward of and right next to the water outlet hole.
There is a small tube attached at the outlet end but the other end is free.
Thank you in advance, Jan

I'm just guessing but it might be the drain hose for the carb.
If so, one end should be attached to the bottom of the carb.

Thank you for your reply, I'll do some research on that.

You are correct it is the carburettor drain, not sure how I will reconnect it but that will be the next challenge. ��

Glad you got it figured out.

You will likely need to remove the side cover to gain enough access to the bottom of your carb in order to slide the drain tube back on to the nipple.

While this sounds simple enough, you should know a couple of things before getting started.

The screws for the cover can be deceptively tight. The use of an impact driver makes loosening them much easier and prevents you from "boogering" up the screw heads to the point that you can't get a purchase on them any longer. This is also true of other fasteners on your outboard including the fill and drain screws for the gear case.
Also, if you have a "real" hardware store nearby, replacing the side cover screws with metric socket head screws is a very useful "upgrade" that makes taking it off next time much easier.

Once the cover is loose, make SURE that you note EXACTLY how the water tell tale tube is properly routed. If you route it incorrectly when you replace the cover you will likely "pinch" it closed against the splash/drip plate ledge. Routing the tube correctly makes putting the side cover back on a bit of a contorsionist's exercise as you hold the cover and reach around the top to push the two tubes back on their nozzles before installing and tightening the screws.

Good luck.

Thank you so much jgmo. Lots of helpful advice.

Fortunately the bolts holding the side panel on have "allen key" heads and all came off easily.
It was only when I took the cover off that I realized the tube was not attached. I had a quick peak and put it all back together again.

I am being very tentative as the engine is on the boat and in the water. BUT my main issue is with the water coming out. It is not as good a flow as it used to be. My fault as I had allowed the engine to stay in the water and get fouled. So far, having rigged up a hoist system so that I can tilt the engine, I have removed and cleaned the water inlet plates and removed various crustaceans that had taken up residence inside. I then held a hose over the water intake and I got a lovely stream of water out of the check hole. When I took her out for a test drive the stream was again reduced and slowly dried up. When I lent over and rubbed the outlet the stream would start again. This was my original problem!! The engine was fully serviced last year including the water system and I have done no more than 70 hours motoring since then.

I am in NE France on the Moselle river and the outboard is mounted on the transom of a small sailboat - not ideal!

Jan

Yes, I'm an old sailor too and that outboard is a heavy one for pulling over the transom. So I see your dilemma.

The good news is that when you "massage" the nozzle, you get flow. The bad news is that debris is trapped behind the outlet and it's going to keep stopping the stream until you can take it off and clean the nozzle and hose out.

Honda made those plastic nozzles too small and what I do is enlarge the hole slightly to keep them from plugging up.

Also, the hose MUST be fresh and supple or it will begin clogging up too. I recommend replacing that hose whenever the water pump is serviced.

Running the outboard at higher rpm with the hose removed is good for clearing debris trapped in the tell tale bypass circuit. But you'll get the absolute best clean out if you remove the nipple that the hose attaches to and run the engine briefly at higher rpm. Anything trapped in the bypass behind that nipple fitting will be pushed out by the power of the pump.

So, you see, you don't have a huge problem....just a bit of work to do to help ease your peace of mind. And...you already have the GOOD screws installed!

Thank you again jgmo.

Let me make sure I fully understand. I need to remove the side panel completely thereby detaching the water hose from it and then run the engine. So I am just removing the hose from the panel not anywhere else?

When the panel is removed you have the opportunity to remove the hose from the fitting that is screwed into the side of the engine. It is also helpful to remove that fitting from the engine and run the engine for a brief time to thoroughly flush out the tell tale passageway inside the engine. If the pump is fairly new and working well you will probably be surprised at the immense amount of water that is being moved. It will shoot some distance so be prepared to shut the engine off quickly especially if you are in a slip with a neighbor nearby. After doing that, replace the fitting to the engine and reconnect the tell tale hose to it.

With the cover off you can enlarge the hole in the plastic nozzle while cleaning it out at the same time. A small drill bit held in a pin vise and worked by hand works well for enlarging that nozzle orifice. If you don't have a pin vise that fits, you can wrap tape around the bit shank so that you can work with it. Be careful not to use too large of a bit as there isn't much material to work with. A very small increase in the size of that passage makes a BIG improvement in it not getting clogged.

Also, as I said before, that little hose needs to be replaced every two or three seasons. The material it's made from hardens over time and the bends in the tube take a set. When the tube gets like that it becomes a pebble trap. Very small items that will easily pass through and out of a new tube will stick and block a stiffer, older tube. It can be very aggravating.

I hope I made this clearer this time but, if not, I'm always here so ask again.

Good luck.

Thank you again jgmo.

Weather permitting I shall start tomorrow morning.

I will post here as to how I get on.

Jan

Well jgmo it seems to have worked! I did exactly as you suggested. I hope to go for a test run tomorrow.

My next challenge will be re-attaching the drain hose from the carbarettor but first I have to source a new bit of hose as the old one is badly kinked.

My thanks again

Jan,
Good to hear you made progress.
Yes, the clear hose from Honda is what I call "consumables" on these engines. If you want ease of use, you just need to take the time to replace them every so often. Just as we do with spark plugs and water pumps.

But please know that Honda did you a BIG favor by putting that drain into the bottom of your carburetor. The drain is extremely important in the use of this motor in that judicious use of that drain can prevent deposits from forming in your carb and making a HUGE difference in extending the time between carburetor service.

If you drain the carb bowl anytime you're not going to start the motor for more than a week or so, it can be the difference between constant running problems or YEARS of reliable operation! That little carb HATES deposits and poor quality fuel. It will reward you though with trouble free starting and running if you stay in the habit of keeping it drained.

It can be an irritation to have to do this but, if you don't want carb trouble, it's entirely worth the effort. I find it usually takes a specifically selected, somewhat long-ish screwdriver to reach that drain screw but with the right tool and a little practice the process can be a snap.

Honda makes the finest, most reliable twin cylinder outboards in the world in my opinion but, like pretty much everything in this boating world, they aren't perfect. Dang close but not perfect.

Fair winds and sunny skies. Or, as my friend and Captain Delphine would say:
Bon Vent!