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e115mlcrd buzzer goes off goes faster if rpms increase

comet424

Regular Contributor
hi i rebuilt my engine from scratch a couple years ago and then had a marine place get the rpms to run properly found it had bad wiring... but i never got it in the water and engine still hasnt been broken in yet..

so i i just got around to testing it on ears

she doesnt like to run first but then still hickups i guess on ears but i been told it will run better in water due to back pressure..

and was told even though it has a oil mixture tank to still mix 50 1 gas oil for the fuel for breaking in

but i run it and after a few minutes the buzzer goes off... i multimeter the head sensors but i get no continunty so im guessing they arent the ones causing the buzzing and the water pee hole shoots out water..

if i increase the rpms the buzzer increases in speed... is that the oil tank thing... i have a priming bulb but who knows if it truly picking up oil... but is the increase in speed and then when you lower the rpms then the buzzer slows down too
 
so I narrowed it down this morning.. guess buzzer is the oil
and even though this engine rebuilt why does it take a heck of a time to get it running kinda smooth with hick up here and there when its cold.. why cant it start and stay running??

so if I press the primer bulb for the oil several times while its running buzzer stops... but I not sure if its the bulb or the oil tank or the oil pump.. and where is the oil pump on this engine.. where the oil line comes into the engine.. and how you test if the pump is working without having to replace the bulb first … or is tht the easiest bulb first
 
You might want to print this reply out.

You narrowed it (the buzzing) down with a guess that it's the oil? I don't know what that means... low oil level, no oil to the VRO?

Did you rebuild the engine yourself or did you have a shop do it? If you rebuilt it, then you will remember installing a large black plastic object on the port (left) side of the engine that has three hoses attached to the bottom of it and one at the top that leads to the carburetors...... That object is the VRO fuel/oil pump of which I'm sure you HAVE NOT primed the VRO pump properly (as follows).
********************
(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)

When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.

Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.

Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.

Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.
********************
DO NOT, after properly priming the VRO, feel that it is necessary to pump it again UNLESS the warning horn starts beeping every other second which indicates either air in the line or a VRO failure.<-- If this takes place, get back to us.

Pumping the VRO oil priming bulb at random times causes extra oil to be supplied to the carburetors... hard starting, excessive smoking, etc.
********************
I've never encountered any warning horn that would be beeping constantly and steady unless the engine was overheating (or in the case of a V6 or V8, a fuel restriction. However, check that three (3) wire horn to make sure the two slide on terminals have the proper wires connected.

There is a built in black wire that should be attached to a ground connection.

A Tan wire should be connected to the slide on terminal closest to that ground wire.

A Purple (12v) wire should be attached to the remaining slide on terminal.

Having these two wires reversed will result in weird happenings.

NO OTHER wires are to be attached to that horn.
************************************
(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
********************
Daily Engine Starting Procedure:

DO NOT pump the oil priming bulb..... Pump fuel primer bulb up until it is hard..... Apply just a slight bit of throttle to take the throttle butterflies off the idle setting (Remove the hood to get a idea how much movement it takes to have the throttle butterflies move.. Replace hood)..... Turn key to the START position and hold the key IN to energize the Fuel Primer Solenoid..... When the engine fires/starts, release the key to the ON (run) position.
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Testing the VRO for oil usage... Mark a line with a masking tape and magic marker, the tape so that you don't end up with a 100 markings or so on the tank... then keep a eye on that tank mark to see if it drops slightly or what!

Some temporarily disconnect the oil line and plug it, then attach a clear hose to the oil fitting, curving it upward, securing it somehow (tie straps, whatever), then filling it to a non spill point and marking that point with a magic marker. That'll tell you pretty quick is and how much oil is being used... BUT... keep in mind that after that test, the VRO will require "Priming" again.

If the warning horn is working properly, and if the VRO is faulty (no oil), the horn should beep every other second.
********************
 
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ok I going to have to re read this all later as I have headache and I not thinking.. lol

yes i rebuilt the engine my self from a 79 engine
as the 84 over heated and went from gray to brown in november when it was snowing and was stranded on the river ...

but ya so what it was doing is you get it started and running about 2 min after running it start beeping every second or 2.. faster the engine ran the faster the beeping went..

when i was saying i narrowed it down is.. while the engine was running i was pressing the oil primer bulb multiple times and then the beeping stoped.. but would come back a minute or 2 later again...
ill take a video of me cold starting it... and since its been 2 1/2 years since i looked at the engine when i rebuilt it and and then had it properly timed by a marine mechanic it just sat waiting for me to have time.. just been rebuilding the boat in spare time..

and these primer bulbs all start soft but now they just a pain to prime they soo stiff.. is there a brand of bulb that doesnt get hard...
ill try your procedures tommorow and i was thinking getting a new primer bulb too figured the check valve in it wasnt working and may have drawn back in the tank..
ill do a video and ill re read your procueds...

as for a buzzer the one that was with it..was non functional.. so i wired a car horn to it... and i had tested the 2 new themorosate vavle sensors or over heat sensors as when the motor over heated it melted those puppies down.. id like to add a heat gauge to it if possible...

but i appreciate your input and i will deffently look it over tommorow maybe the pump not working i not sure at this moment...

thank you and ill get back to you... too
 
sorry for delay its been raining here so haven't gotten to it

so I replaced the primer bulb so I can actually squeeze it

then I did your procedure
I took the line off just above where I pointing in that pic... and I pumped it in a 1 litre bottle pumped like 900 mils into it and re put it back on

I started it and still runs funny like it trys to miss fire ill upload video later.. maybe its because its still new?

but the buzzer comes back on after about 2 or 3 min of kinda idling (rev the engine up some)
and then the faster the rpms go the faster the beeping pulses go..

does that mean the oil pump part side isn't working?
 
You don't say which alarm the horn is giving out. If it's beeping every other second... and you primed the VRO as stated in my reply... then I would say that the VRO pump has failed.

If this is the case, convert the engine to pre-mix fuel (50/1 mixture), as follows.
********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

********************
 
oh sorry
it beeps ever other second.. and the faster the rpms goes the faster it beeps

I tried to upload pic but its not working where I pulled the line off will try again

can the vro pump be repaired? and which way is better straight fuel with the pump or a premix?

what is a fuel restriction warning what it look

I can do those … would me already having the oil premixed set off the alarm?

so the marine mecanic told me to already premix the fuel to 50to 1 as the engine hasn't been broken in yet
so far I guess I have ran it 1 hour say 5 min here there on the ears but hasn't seen the water yet

but he told me you want it extra oily when breaking in..

but would the vro still give off beeping if the gas is already mixed?
and can I fix the vro pump I did read of a vro2 pump couple years ago

ill try to upload pic I was showing where I took line off to bleed

You don't say which alarm the horn is giving out. If it's beeping every other second... and you primed the VRO as stated in my reply... then I would say that the VRO pump has failed.

If this is the case, convert the engine to pre-mix fuel (50/1 mixture), as follows.
********************
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup (and fuel restriction warning if so equipped) by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

********************
 
so I retested and re primed
here in this video you see the engine hiccuping or so i not sure if this is normal if its due to not in the water
or if its normal this is how it was set then

https://youtu.be/tECWopUQM_A

so the oil pump buzzer in the video never came on in the 4 min of recording..
but after i shut off and started later after 2 or 3 min it buzz or after 1 min or 45 seconds..
so not sure if the pump is fixable etc

let me know
 
Hiccuping or seeming that a carburetor spits back is caused by running lean.

To find out which barrel of which carburetor is at fault..... while the engine is running, stick two fingers into the carburetor throats, acting as a manual choke. When the spitting back stops and the engine has a tendency to smooth out, you've found the offending carburetor.
 
oh ok and at idle in the video other times testing it will backfire say and then it shuts off

so then u adjust the screw which screw to enrich it,.. its been a while I just using the site to check the vro pump
I thought I could repair it.. but it shows no serviceable parts
and at 400+ usd dollars that be like 5 600 Canadian dollars so best to just bypass it no ones ever going to sell these if they that price..

but so much for taking apart and repairing that pump
 
ill test engine tommorow i did find a rebuild kit on amazon.. for the vro pump so u can get them
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif][FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.amazon.ca/Keenso-Rebuild-Repair-Johnson-Evinrude/dp/B07H6BGF3G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vro+pump&qid=1567561570&s=gateway&sr=8-1[/FONT][SUB][SUP]
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so I did your 2 finger test.. it did speed up the engine in the bottom carb but it didn't stop the kicking or hiccupping whatever you wanna call it

and not sure how to adjust it to make it more rich..
but here is the video i did

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://youtu.be/sMMSxjQ5e-o[/FONT]
 
so I did your 2 finger test.. it did speed up the engine in the bottom carb but it didn't stop the kicking or hiccupping whatever you wanna call it

and not sure how to adjust it to make it more rich..
but here is the video i did

https://youtu.be/sMMSxjQ5e-o
Slight miscommunication. The '2-finger test' means 2 fingers in a single carb throat. On your 115 you have 4 separate carburetors as shown by the four openings with individual butterflies. The top and bottom sets of carbs do each share a float bowl, but air flow and fuel delivery are individual to each cylinder. in the picture I've circled each throat and if you look in your can see individual butterflies.
carb.JPG


Try to repeat the '2-finger test' by holder your index and middle finger together then place it in the orifice of each of the 4 carb throats.

KJ
 
oh ok.. I get it now.. when you a back yard mechanic you don't know all these words lol

so I do the test 4 times 2 fingers in each carb...
and what should happen.. speed up slow down or do nothing like you seen in the video bottom sped up

so does that mean all 4 have individual fuel mixture too

ill try tomorrow and video it
 
i ran out of space on my cell so video was short int he 3rd video
i took 3 videos 1.. is starting the engine cold and you can tell me if thats good or not so good
3rd video i did the 2 fingers in each one... ran out of time.. but i did find the bottom right when i stuck fingers in would rev higher but stil kick
also the 2 bottom ports my finger would get wet of gas but the top 2 would stay dry

but here the videos

1.
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]
https://youtu.be/d0uWypOY5CE
2.
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://youtu.be/SfHXiFMadaE
3.
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://youtu.be/0pR6dAw0BUk[/FONT][SUB][SUP]
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and I hope I did it right
 
so I re did it again
you can see its running funny still from the other videos
and I not sure do I adjust the bottom right carb and if so how I do that...
here is the video I took this morning

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://youtu.be/oUuq4Dsg2Bg[/FONT]
 
@kevinj did i do it right? and then what does it tell ya in my 4 videos... as i havent worked on it.. waiting for replys on here before i adjust anything
 
I got the rebuild kit for the vro pump but I redid it the buzzer still went off and then the engine dies too unless I prime bubble it..

ugh so not sure what to do
 
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