Having trouble setting hinge pins correctly AQ280-PT

Finally got my engine mated, got my outdrive mostly installed, but I'm getting hung up by not being able to rotate the hinge pins so the locking bolt can ride down inside...

I have a massive semi truck screwdriver to try and rotate it the 1/8" I need, but it just simply will not budge (in have anti seize on the pins as well). Is there some other alternative or a way to get these little buggers to line up correctly?

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Walleye4Days said:

Finally got my engine mated, got my outdrive mostly installed, but I'm getting hung up by not being able to rotate the hinge pins so the locking bolt can ride down inside...
Are you trying to install a complete drive..... i.e., transmission, Intermediate housing and lower unit as an assembly?
If so, I would suggest installing the Intermediate housing and lower gear unit ONLY!
Install transmission last!


I have a massive semi truck screwdriver to try and rotate it the 1/8" I need, but it just simply will not budge (in have anti seize on the pins as well).
Automotive Anti-Seez will turn into Always-Seez in a wet environment.
Instead, use a water proof grease.

Questions:
How were the suspension fork hinge pins removed?
Was a steel drift punch used?
Did either pin become expanded during removal with a steel drift punch?
(always use an aluminum or brass punch)


Is there some other alternative or a way to get these little buggers to line up correctly?

If a steel drift punch was used to remove them, you may have expanded these very soft hinge pins. It doesn't take much expansion to make them difficult to remove or to replace!

If so, pull them back out and mic the diameter looking for expanded areas.
If they are expanded (they most likely are), then gently roll them against a bench style disc sander (equipped with fine paper), taking off only a few ten thousandths or so.

Re-fit them into the aluminum bores.
When greased, they should slide in/out of the bores fairly easily.

Click to expand...

Here is a prime example of what NOT TO DO!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nl8JkIiX8fk

This guy was not only trying to remove the entire drive as an assembly.........., he was using a steel driver, and was lucky that the hinge pins came out without having expanded them!

Note that his AFT PDS seal was installed incorrectly.


.

If you don't have a bench sander you can do the same with a fine flat file, very slowly... ( actually a dual sided emery board will work, i,e, disposable fingernail file) roll the pin on a hard flat surface to sight for high spots. One or two file swipes at a time does it.

I thought about doing that but was terrified I was going to be creating a huge problem, hehe.

I'm installing the intermediate then the transmission/input gearcase last.

I removed the pins by threading in 5/16" hardened bolt and made my own little pipe pulley thing out of some steel pipe and thick washers (I have the duoprop with PT so punching them out was out of the question. I just had to slowly pull them out).

The antiseize I used was designed for underwater use on wet threads on oil platforms (my neighbor works In the gulf and brought me back a can on it. Pretty cool stuff.

I'm definitely going to assume they're slightly swollen because otherwise they should've been a little easier to turn by now. Looks like I'll be redrawing them back out and bench standing or using an emery file after micing out the high spots.

Thanks for the great advice. I've learned more about my 280 in this past month on here, than I've learned in 15yrs on the water with other guys Haha.

....also clean out any crud in the tansom shield holes they insert into as well as the holes in the drive they mate with. Replace the plastic bushings as well.