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Need some PDS and engine coupler guidance...

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Walleye4Days

Contributing Member
So, I pulled the engine and refreshed her. New timing chain, new seals from the block up, and cleaned and inspected all the internals. After putting in new pds bearings and seals, I am trying to reinstall the engine.

But I just spent the better part of 3hrs with a buddy, trying to drop the AQ225D back in and carnot for the life of me get the engine coupler and splines to cooperate. I get the engine down to the stringers and in place no problem, but I cannot get the splines and coupler to line up...

Is there some kinds of trick I'm missing or something? (Both the coupler and splines are cleaned and greased, but but still not able to get them mated. :(
 
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Walleye4Days said:
So, I pulled the engine and refreshed her. New timing chain, new seals from the block up, and cleaned and inspected all the internals. After putting in new pds bearings and seals, I am trying to reinstall the engine.
A bit off topic...... did you pre-fill the PDS grease cavity before installing the AFT seal?
This cavity must be full and void of any air pockets, or future grease gun attempts may not push new grease into the AFT bearing.

But I just spent the better part of 3hrs with a buddy, trying to drop the AQ225D back in and cannot for the life of me get the engine coupler and splines to cooperate. I get the engine down to the stringers and in place no problem, but I cannot get the splines and coupler to line up...\
These are industry standard Borg Warner splines.
The BW drive coupler installation is directional. Is it installed correctly?
Note that the spring cushion/dampener assembly faces AFT.

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Was the BW drive coupler installed using the correct shouldered bolts?
The bolts will be like these with an alignment shoulder?

89012645_mrg_910_pri_larg.jpg


Did you leave the side engine mounts attached to the engine, pulling the stringer lag bolts ONLY?
If you left the side engine mounts on the stringers, you would need to raise the engine up in order to clear the engine mount studs.
If so, the down angle of the engine will make it difficult to align the two Borg Warner splines!

Did you remove the flywheel cover from the transom shield for the PDS bearing replacement?
If so, you will need to go through the alignment triangulation procedure, in which case the flywheel cover will need to be mounted to the engine prior to installation.
You will also want to replace the inner (FWD) rubber cushion ring! The FWD rubber cushion ring provides the water seal!

Is the transmission still removed?


Is there some kinds of trick I'm missing or something? (Both the coupler and splines are cleaned and greased, but but still not able to get them mated. :(
I have never had any trouble getting the Borg Warner splines to align and engage.
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Yes, I pre-filled the cavity until the bearing cages had grease oozing through (while spinning) then installed the rear seal in nonconventional direction. Note: whomever did it previously, they not only installed it the wrong way but also had two 'sealed' bearings in there bone dry with a bearing shot out of one of them even lol.

Yeah I have it installed correctly because I made sure the part that slipped into the outdrive went in facing aft (I was very careful not to mix it up hehe).

I didn't remove the coupler as I left the flywheel/coupler unit in place on the block.

Yep, left the engine mounts in and just removed the lags from the stringer to release the entire engine and mounts intact together.

I left the flywheel casing bolted up to the transom and just removed the engine only per your advice to avoid realigning everything and chancing busting the aft bolts that were corroded.

Yes, the 280 outdrive is still not on yet. Maybe I should install it first and the extra weight will help out or something?

Yeah, maybe something else is just catching me up and I can't see it or something, because this seems insanely difficult to line up for what it is Haha. I'm wondering if maybe the starter casing is in the way or something. I dunno, just spitballing ideas.
 
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Walleye4Days said:
Yes, I pre-filled the cavity until the bearing cages had grease oozing through (while spinning) then installed the rear seal in nonconventional direction.
Perfect!

Note: whomever did it previously, they not only installed it the wrong way but also had two 'sealed' bearings in there bone dry with a bearing shot out of one of them even lol.
Aren't you glad that you replaced them?????

Yeah I have it installed correctly because I made sure the part that slipped into the outdrive went in facing aft (I was very careful not to mix it up hehe).
The PDS can only go in one way.


I didn't remove the coupler as I left the flywheel/coupler unit in place on the flywheel!

Yep, left the engine mounts in and just removed the lags from the stringer to release the entire engine and mounts intact together.
Perfect again!

I left the flywheel casing (that would be the "flywheel cover") bolted up to the transom and just removed the engine only per your advice to avoid realigning everything and chancing busting the aft bolts that were corroded.

Yes, the 280 outdrive is still not on yet. Maybe I should install it first and the extra weight will help out or something?
Unless the transom is soft and flexible, there is no benefit to the additional weight of the stern drive.

Also, we never remove and/or re-install an entire AQ series stern drive.
Pull the transmission only for this work.
If additional drive work is required, pull transmission first, then remove the two other components.
Re-install transmission LAST.



Yeah, maybe something else is just catching me up and I can't see it or something, because this seems insanely difficult to line up for what it is Haha. I'm wondering if maybe the starter casing is in the way or something. I dunno, just spitballing ideas.
The starter motor is attached to the cylinder block, as well as the 153 tooth flywheel.
I cannot see any conflict here that would prevent the Borg Warner splines from engaging.
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Thanks for the tip on removing just the transmission. I ended up completely resealing thr entire outdrive (except the lower unit because that's going to require cutting the props off because previous owner didn't ever lube them, and I'd like to get the rest of the season).

Transom is solid as a rock, as the stringers, transom, and new fiberglass floor had all been done about 6yrs back and very well sealed (that's the one thing previous owner was doing right).

I'm thinking maybe I'm not getting them to line up right just because maybe the engine is angling odd on a fore to aft type direction, and I'm just not getting it straight enough in. I'm gonna try and add a couple ratchet straps to the hoist to really get the engine dead level with where it should be. Because I'm easily getting either the top of the bellhousing touching, but not the bottom sliding in, and/or getting one of the sides touching but not getting the other side to side in. So, maybe I just need a couple extra pair of hands to help line her up.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Walleye4Days said:
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I'm thinking maybe I'm not getting them to line up right just because maybe the engine is angling odd on a fore to aft type direction, and I'm just not getting it straight enough in.
You may be onto something with that!

suggestion: while the engine is being moved AFT towards the flywheel cover, have a helper grab onto the flywheel cover and wiggle it a bit. You should be able to wiggle it while it sits in it's two rubber cushion rings.
If so, it may help with the B/W spline alignment.
Click to expand...
 
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