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Johnson 9.5 64-73 no spark

C

Chris96

New member
I have had this Johnson forever hadnt been used in 4 years. I have a no spark condition. I replaced the coil packs the the spark plug wires and tge plugs today. Checked to make sure the stop switch was working witch it was. But im still getting a no spark. I left the timing how it was and didnt mess with that. Made sure everything was grounded properly. Not sure what im missing here
 
fdrgator said:
Most no-spark on those is due to dirty breaker points. Especiallly if not ran for 4 years. Corrosion happens.
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What do you mean breaker points? Like the little metal pieces that hold down the connectors from the coil packs? Should i take them off the armature?
 
Breaker points are those things that open and close as the shaft rotates, performing a switch function. The contacts that open and close must make a good electrical connection each time they come together. Dirt, oil, wear, corrosion, etc prevent that good electrical contact.
 
fdrgator said:
Breaker points are those things that open and close as the shaft rotates, performing a switch function. The contacts that open and close must make a good electrical connection each time they come together. Dirt, oil, wear, corrosion, etc prevent that good electrical contact.
Click to expand...

I noticed they were green before when it was taken apart so i cleaned the contacts with wire brush. Still no spark
 
Chris.... NO intentions of insulting your intelligence, however it's obvious your mechanical knowledge is lacking somewhat. Best to let a more knowledgeable and available person "personally" (by your side) guide you through that magneto adjustment and repair procedure this one time. Those "green" ignition points being hit with a wire brush, even when new would destroy them, but and however... being "green"??... Has that engine been underwater at one time (4 years ago?) and the magneto NOT looked at until now? If so, your problem with that engine may very well be overwhelming.

Prongs within coils have a spiral taper to them... plug wires must have inward pressure applied to them while turning the wire clockwise to seat the wire within the coil.

The vertical metal portion of the coils must be aligned with the inside bevel location you'll see at the top of the aluminum post they sit upon. This sets the clearance between the coils and the flywheel magnets.

Points must be cleaned with Lacquer Thinner or Acetone to be perfectly clean of everything including finger prints.

Points to be set by having the fiber rubbing portion of the points aligned with the crankshaft/flywheel key, then setting them so that a .020 gauge will slide thru but a .022 will not.

The flywheel nut must be torqued to factory specifications, otherwise the key will shear which will throw the engine out of time.

You can see that there's more to it than taking a wire brush to it.
 
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