Running AQ130

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JimA82 said:

Leak test is next in order here. If I choose to remove the head after that, do I need to take the off the springs and what not off to remove the head or can it be done with out all that?
The valves and valve springs will remain in place.
You will loosen the rocker arms to relax the push rod pressure.
You will also remove the rocker arm shaft.

Keep all valve train parts organized as to go back together in the same position.

While scraping and cleaning the cylinder block deck, place clean rags into each bore and/or opening, as to prevent debris from entering.



I see 4 or so bolts under the rocker arms, doubt a closed wrench is going to cut it.
Best to use a six point socket on cylinder head bolts.


But then taking the time, everything looks like it just comes off slowly pcs by pcs on the push rod side. There are a few good video's I have been watching, but they are doing complete rebuilds.

Be careful with some of the videos.
The person may be well intended, but often the verbiage is incorrect as well as the procedure.

Thanks! Jim

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Once again thank you!

I just hope the exposed bolts outside of the valve area will come out and not snap off like one of the manifold bolts did. These are much larger though. That said, they have been in there a really long time.

Just a quick update & question, and have not done a thing yet been crazy busy. Took the boat out Sunday for a couple of hours, drained the oil and it was mocha coffee. First time I have seen that vs the black with water at the btm of the oil container. Hopefully I can start dealing with it this weekend, via a leak down test. Weather is changing up here, so pretty much done going out.

Is there a definitive way to tell if the raw water pump is or is not leaking back into the engine?

And is there a way to leak test the oil cooler without taking it to a radiator shop?

Thanks! Jim

Since engine oil pressure is 40 psi or more and raw water pressure much lower, any leak likely to be oil leaking into water not visa versa.

There is a weep hole on the water pump drive shaft that drips water if the seal between the pump high pressure side and the pump drive shaft leaks.

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JimA82 said:

Is there a definitive way to tell if the raw water pump is or is not leaking back into the engine?
There is an area on the seawater pump whereby any water leak would simply drip down the rear area of the pump body.
See green arrow below.


And is there a way to leak test the oil cooler without taking it to a radiator shop?
Pull it apart and look at the O-ring seals and examine the exchanger core and the body for any signs of compromising corrosion.
If the core is good, and yet it's allowing water to enter the engine oil, it's most likely that the O-rings are failing.

Thanks! Jim

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Back at it, thank you both Ricardo/sand kicker and am_dew via text. I had forgot about the weep holes, so one less thing. Checking the oil cooler tomorrow. Gotta watch the Seahawks game first.

Not done a leak test yet, is this something that can be skipped? Thinking about it I do not really want to spend 50 bucks for a leak tester and use it once. I have not checked with any auto places yet to see if they rent them? Really tempted to just tear into it and see what I see at this point.

I know, probably being lazy now.