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  1. #1

    Default 1999 e90fplssr sputters and dies at idle

    Anyone who can help! Thanks in advance
    1 it was running great then as we came to port it started to bog them die but we were at the doc so we put it on trailer and left I thought maybe it flooded itself.
    2 next time out we ran hard and slow and ran great all day
    3 last time it sputtered then rough idle and as long as I gave it gas it ran us around but then let of gas and it died.
    the throttle cables have always felt tight since I bought it 2 months ago. We played around all day with it and it felt as the cables got worse and it was hard to keep the engine on.
    today took off the cables they are good disconnected they slide ok but attached they stiffen up but still much better. I believe they are too short.
    i noticed plugs dirty so I cleaned them before I buy new ones.
    im charging battery now as it has died.
    i think I may have two problems one being cables two Iím not sure. Any help is good? Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Central West Florida

    Default Re: 1999 e90fplssr sputters and dies at idle

    Question: Is your tachometer also acting up?
    We occasionally have questions. If you fail to answer, it may affect ours.

  3. #3

    Default Re: 1999 e90fplssr sputters and dies at idle

    Quote Originally Posted by joereeves View Post
    Question: Is your tachometer also acting up?
    No but come to think about it the speedometer is .

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Central West Florida

    Default Re: 1999 e90fplssr sputters and dies at idle

    NOTE: The model number you entered (E90FPLSSR) that engine is a 2000 model, not a 1999 model.

    The speedometer is driven by air pressure... Any problem with this item is of no concern.

    The control cables have nothing to do with the engine's problem... put them on hold.

    That engine has a battery charging system... Why do you need to charge the battery separately? If that battery is faulty, get rid of it and purchase a top notch battery suitable for that engine.

    Is the engine's charging system acting up?

    If you pump the fuel primer bulb constantly, acting as a manual fuel pump, does that cure the problem?

    Do a compression and spark test. What are the individual cylinders psi compression readings. Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are numbered as follows:


    The spark "must" jump a 7/16" "Air Gap" with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP!... Nothing else will do! The "Air Gap" is important. All spark plugs must be removed for this test.
    (Spark Tester - Home Made)
    (J. Reeves)

    You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

    A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

    Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:




    This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
    Last edited by joereeves; 08-20-2019 at 11:32 AM.
    We occasionally have questions. If you fail to answer, it may affect ours.

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