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77 Evinrude 85 h.p , will not idle

If you have to install a longer idle stop screw there is something wrong with your engine.-----From where I sit I can not tell what that might be.------Checked the reed valves ?-----What happens if you start the engine and remove one plug wire at a time ?----Does it react the same with each plug wire ?
 
ok so I got it to the point where the cam roller does not touch until it hits the 3 to 4 degree mark, and start opening the carbs, im pretty sure the reason for my not reaching idle except for way higher then it needs to be, is all the carbon buildup so j dumped some seafoam directly into the cylinder. *I dont know if that was a smart idea* and once I replace the impeller waterpump ,take it to the lake and run * 2 or 3 cans of seafoam through it, * dont know if that is smart idea either ....
I would really like to replace the vernatherm , but it seems difficult tried pulling it outright, bit enough clearance , I seen a video of I guy cutting out a piece of the cowling to do it* I really dont want to do that . I wish there was a video or 9ne of my stupid manuals would explain it seloc and clymer but they have been useless this whole process except for numbers , if anyone has any knowledge of this process for a 1977 85 h.p Evinrude 85799s, it appears as if the cowling has to be lowered but I'm not exactly sure of the of what bolts to take out or if and I dont want to take off the power head in order to do this.

I'm supposed to be on vacation but got called in, so any advice tips knowledge about anything would be appreciated and applied tonight
 
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so I stuck my finger inside to touch the piston and carbon build up is bad, I took off the side and everything looks clean each piston looks to have no issue. I really am to the point where I think the idling and everything is caused by the carbon build up or does that sound ridiculous? i would tinker with it more but the wife isnt home and the little ones are getting restless and annoyed watching me play with the outboard, also there is a gas station in town that sells ethanol free gas, think that would help a little bit too?
 
ok so heres what I will do I will repair the waterpump impeller, install the tachs heat rpm volt , take it to the lake run some seafoam through it and will tell you how it goes because I cannot tell in my driveway because I think the impeller broke and is causing a blockage and my neighbors are not to happy with me when it almost ran away on me and scared the hell out of me killed the key disconnect gas and the darn thing was still full rpm for 10 seconds scare the hell out of me but it what brought me to the carbon built up. plus the w.o.t was off by 7 degrees and have not had it in the lake since I fixed that , I will get back to you and tell you how everything went good or bad , I just wish I could get the damn thermostat out to make sure it works , it looks like I'm going to have to drill out the cowling and put grommets on it or dissemble the whole bottom cowling , I should really invest in a oem manual instead on clymer and SELOC, but I will get back to you to tell you how everything is going thanks so much for your guys help I would not have been able to gic have the stuff without you guys
 
Personally, I would not mess with the vernatherm unless it is malfunctioning. I also doubt carbon is the problem. Unless it is flaking loose and fouling plugs. The Sea Foam may be contributing to the flaking off. The runaway probably was caused by you. And the link and sync. An OEM manual won't be much help, except for link and sync. They aren't much for troubleshooting.
 
well I was dead determined to look at the thermostat since I had a new one sitting next to me so I got it I'm just putting everything back together and take it out today , with higher octane gas then regular we will see and I will keep you posted the one that was on was stuck open everything on this engine appears to be original
 
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Runaway Engine: Anyone playing with... tinkering with a running outboard engine, opening the throttle butterflies by flipping the carburetor linkages in neutral... OR... running on a flushette and opening the throttle whether in neutral or in gear... you risk a "Runaway" engine scenario.

A runaway engine transforms itself from a ignition powered engine that depends on spark to ignite its fuel to a pure bred bonafide diesel with a never ending desire for the ultimate in rpms. Turning the key to OFF, yanking all the spark plug wires off, grounding out that well know black/yellow kill wire, does absolutely nothing... and that engine continues to scream away, grabbing at even higher rpms.

Yes, you could disrupt the fuel flow in some manner, then wait until the fuel lines, pump, and the carburetors to run dry while you're praying for the rods to stay put. That usually doesn't end well.

Now, if you happen to have the carburetor face plate off, and you're wearing a pretty heavy shirt of some kind... quickly ripping that off and jabbing it in the carburetor throats would flood the engine out fairly quickly, otherwise I'd suggest you run away... very fast, before that thing explodes like a large grenade. A better plan would be to not race the engine to its high rpms in the first place.

The above action works well, however, in this age of outboards, many have the carburetors separated... an assigned few to each bank, a good distance from each other... and you have but one shirt!
Your girlfriend's shirt? :)
 
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I'll remember to make my wife wear a sweatshirt next time lol, almost done with the impeller and pump, then onto the tachs and rewire some ****ty wiring so only have two wires running to the battery instead of the cluster**** that is going on and also install the new gen3 triple battery charger
 
just another quick question I know you guys are probably getting tired of me, so I replaced everything first time I took a lower unit off, I have two copper pipes coming down to the pump, when i put this back up i was unable too see if both of them went back into the water pump housing , so is it basically get it up hope to God it Is connected? or if it is up all the way that means they are connected I cleaned all the connection lines and put liquid soap on them as per the manual said.
 
For your information.-----There are supposed to be 2 plastic guide tubes to help get the tubes into the water pump.-----Hopefully you did not use the bolts to "pull " the lower unit into place !----What manual are you using ?
 
clymer and seloc neither of then said anything about plastic guides , the water pump kit did not come with any and there were none on the existing , even the tutorial videos dont show any
 
Often they are found a few inches up the tubes.----They slide up after they have done the job of guiding the tubes in.----------And I have worked on more than one of these motors.----Done this job many times !----Look for those guide tubes.----Learn from mistakes made.
 
ok thankyou so much, I'll look in a but when I get a chance , I looked online and Ebay and the parts obsolete so if worse come to worse I will have to make my own hopefully I did not damage anything by not using them
 
I'll have to check in the morning forgot we got a babysitter and promised the wife date might , thankyou I'm sure they are there or I can come up with something
 
Once assembled, the guides cannot escape, so they have to be in there. Somehow, they manage to slide up the water tubes and have to be retrieved. Once retreived, stick them into the water pump to guide the tubes in.
 
I could only retrieve one, the other one I had to rig a pick up to a long flat head to get off and was unsuccessful it was coming off in pieces, so after a frustrating while I decided I would just cut the one I have in half so I can try to connect it , from what I saw I think it is connected like 98 percent sure , i guess i will figure out , i finished that up today and decided to start working on the tachs , and i got tired and since its labor day i decided to spend the rest of the day with my family , I will return the more information about how it is running if it connected properly , and how the seafoam and engine tuner works if it will help or not
 
work has been hectic so I wont be able to put the boat in until this weekend and update you guys , but i was wonder what you thought about me hooking up the muffs, to see if the water pump is connected properly without it running no leaks should mean hooked up right, if I have leaks I have to drop the lower again and make my own guide tubes, thanks for all your help
 
so tomorrow I will be doing this test with the muffs on , is this a good way to determine if they waterpump is connected properly, turn the hose on low pressure? and if it comes out the ,propeller ? it isnt connected properly? idk I'm guessing and wondering if you guys have any better ideas or suggestions.....again thank you for all your help
 
so today I did most of the tachs temp ,rpm, voltage, mph, ....I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and drop the lower again I did not get any conclusive results , so I'm going to try to make my own guide tubes anyone have any ideas ? or anything else that would work in the place of the guide tube? tomorrow I will be installing the battery disconnect and the gen 3 charger , and attempt to come up with something for the obsolete guide tubes I have called numerous shops and looked online no one seems to have any , which sucks all this over a plastic tube, I wonder if a mercury guide tube would work in its place but I doubt it
 
It was a bad idea to use a "pic" as you now know those guides are simply thin nylon tubes.

Best to buy one of those long cheap wooden handle screwdrivers with a regular tip... heat and bend as needed.
 
yea I thought about that, but I ended up just making my own out of aluminum flashing like I saw on another thread I work with sheet metal for a living so it was pretty easy to get the right size except I soldered I didn't duct tape so that they will be more reusable hopefully, I'm going to take it out either this week or weekend depending on what goes on with work, hopefully all goes well, you guys have helped me tremendously and I appreciate it. I will update with how it is running and how everything goes
 
so I took the boat out and ran seafoam through it and ran ethanol free gasoline from a local station, runs like a champ , I'm feeling so good about this project , thanks for all your guys help, also I just acquired a motorguide w75 wireless 24v trolling motor for 175 bucks I feel like I won the lottery the guy just bought a new boat with gps lock and didn't want this one anymore
 
well after running for a while it has returned right back to its original state idles like crap really hard to start sounds like it's missing once in a while , basically the only thing left is the reeds so I bought a whole replacement housing with reeds intact and hopefully this will be the end of it , I honestly dont know what else it could be so hopefully this is it, otherwise I'm having a big bonfire for the kids in the back yard
 
will do I'm pretty confident it is the reeds with the hard to start refusing to idle but will run alright idled pretty high with the warm up and seeing gas on the bottom of the cowl I didn't take the air silencer off to see if gas was coming back out of the carbs but gas sitting on the bottom is a pretty good indicator I think
 
so while I am waiting for the reeds I have not had a chance to pull the boat out to pull it apart , so I have rebuilt the carbs, did a whole link and sync, replaced all fuel lines , new fuel pump, new water pump and impeller , fixed the timing , replaced all spark plugs , have done spark test jumps half inch, compression test within normal , might be a few other things that I have forgot to mention, but it is a 1977 evinrude 85 hp 85799s, it ran great and was idling well when I was running seafoam through it , ran good for a little but and then returned to this state where it is hard to start will not idle , and if it does it will die soon after , there appears to be fuel on the bottom of the cowl, it will run at higher rpm, not great , but will run, seems to sputter sometimes like it is missing a cylinder that almost kills the engine otherwise you pretty much have to spray starter fluid to get it started, yes I replaced and gapped the plugs after seafoam, does anyone have any suggestions if it turns out not to be the reeds sorry this is all that has been on my mind I just want to be able to go fishing and take the family out on the lake, any suggestions or observations is appreciated, also I gave to replace the impeller again because my dumbass cousin ran it at a high rpm outside of the water , and the overheat alarm will go off if you out it in gear and travel a little bit 50 feet or so
 
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