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Clamping Ring Bolt Question (with picture)

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Walleye4Days

Contributing Member
On my 280-DP/PT I just took off, I'm looking at the clamping ring from outside the boat, and wondering if I even need to touch these bolts that are pretty corroded. I'm taking the engine out to install new pds bearings (84' 305 AQ225D) and I am not sure if I have to remove these rusted bolts that are aft, or do I just have to remove the six interior bolts to free up the engine from the clamping ring...? (Everything interior has already been disconnected from the engine except the clamping ring and motor mount bolts.

20190816_172157.jpg
 
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There’s no need to remove the six clamping collar bolts if you pull the engine only (by separating it from the fly wheel cover).
If so, you will be able to access the PDS and remove it from AFT!
I’d pull the lag bolts from the stringers and leave the side engine mounts attached to the engine.

Once the engine is out, and once the 6007 bearing snap ring is removed, you will be able to push the PDS out AFT.
Then reach in from AFT and drive the 6007 FWD bearing out.

You will install the new 6206 bearing on the shaft.
The shaft and 6206 bearing will be installed as a unit.
The 6007 bearing installs last, followed by the snap ring and new seal.

Be sure to spin the PDS while pumping the cavity full of new grease.
Once you see grease exiting the AFT bearing, stop and install the seal.
The AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction.



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Ok perfect. I didn't think that was possible, so I skipped even thinking about it! Haha

Now, I noticed the aft rubber cushion ring/seal looks a little worn with some little cracks in it. It doesn't leak at all and I haven't had a problem with it, so should I just leave it in place and worry about replacing the aft cushion ring some time in the future? (This is the first time I've seen a cushion ring seal like that. So. I'm not sure if it being a little rougher looking with tiny little cracks in it and etc is normal.)
 
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Walleye4Days said:
Ok perfect. I didn't think that was possible, so I skipped even thinking about it! Haha

Now, I noticed the aft rubber cushion ring/seal looks a little worn with some little cracks in it. It doesn't leak at all and I haven't had a problem with it, so should I just leave it in place and worry about replacing the aft cushion ring some time in the future?
If you disturb this area, you will want to at least replace the inner rubber cushion ring (the inner ring does the water sealing).
The combination of the two cushion rings provides the rear engine isolation (I.E., rear engine mount).
Pull the lags from the side engine mounts and leave them attached to the engine so that it can go back at the same elevation.


As for removing the six clamping collar bolts (Tap Bolts), be careful...... these are wet area threads, and may be corroded.
While you have the engine out, you can take a small propane torch to each of the six thread insert bosses. The heat will gently expand the material, giving you a better chance of tap bolt removal.
If you do not need to do this now, I'd wait until the season is over with. If one of these tap bolts was to snap off, you'll be sending the flywheel cover in to a shop for EDM.
Click to expand...


AQ series flywheel cover tap bolt thread bosses.jpg
 
Good call on waiting until the season is over, Haha. I'm eager to get her back in the water to finish out the season (I have three huge tournaments from mid September all the way through the end of November. So, I really just need to get it suitable enough to last through that without any major damage or issues, then over the winter I can overhaul everything that was risky otherwise.) Thank you for the advice and help, it really has helped me immensely!
 
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