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Mystery part identification

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Robrobrob

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Please have a look at the attachments. What is this part? It is inside the distributor cap and it got fried. I’m asking about the part that looks like a donut, but not as tasty.
 

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Not to say it replaces them. But it's a primitive solution that the engineers came up with. It looks like a prestolite distributor used in omc cobras 4.3l. Those parts are no longer available. But if you do find one . Let me know.
 
You could try an aftermarket solution. Look up pertronix ignition systems. They may have a solution for you. I've tried them on a 94 omc cobra and found the magnetic rotor they supplied does not fit the reluctor in the distributor. In my own problem I may just swap out the old distributor and go I the direction of points so I don't have to fiddle with modules and rewiring.
 
If that is an early Prestolite, it would be their version of VR (variable reluctor) style triggering!
It would be similar to this 8 cylinder engine reluctor wheel.


shopping



The part that became fried would be the VR sensor or VR pick-up coil unit.


This unit linked to in post #7 is a Hall Effect unit.
I would steer clear of Hall Effect!

s-l225.jpg




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Get what you already have found,
Disregard the post about avoiding hall effect spew.

He is a moron.

Clean your dist real well, make sure the mechanical advance below the mounting plate is clean and moves freely and the springs are all there.

Follow wiring instructions and when in and you start engine make sure you reset base timing.
Should be aeound 6-8* before top dead center.
 
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kghost said:
Get what you already have found,
See post #11 again. From what I see, the OP has an early version of a VR triggering system.
The original reluctor wheel may not be removable.

Disregard the post about avoiding hall effect spew.
Rob, perhaps read up on the Pertronix Hall Effect inaccuracy issues.

He is a moron.
There's no need for name calling, etc.

Clean your dist real well, make sure the mechanical advance below the mounting plate is clean and moves freely and the springs are all there.

Follow wiring instructions and when in and you start engine make sure you reset base timing.
Should be aeound 6-8* before top dead center.
Click to expand...

Robrobrob said:
I just completed installing this electronic ignition module
https://pertronix.com/pertronix-1563b-ignitor-prestolite-6-cyl.html#.XWcntbIXahA

And I have replaced the coil, but when I try to start it keeps cranking but I am getting no spark. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Rob, were you actually able to install all of the Pertronix retro-fit kit components on this existing distributor?
In other words, were you able to remove the original reluctor wheel from the shaft, and use the Pertronix triggering wheel in it's place above that area?


Also Rob, this is an old distributor with an old mechanical advancing system.
When you do get it working again, go ahead and set your BASE advance, but also make sure that the system is providing the correct progressive and total advance.

See your OEM ignition advance curve for this info.



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I was not able to edit my previous post, so I've posted what I had intended to edit.


Rob, were you actually able to install all of the Pertronix retro-fit kit components on this existing distributor?
In other words, were you able to remove the original reluctor wheel from the shaft, and use the Pertronix triggering wheel in it's place just above that area?

See attached file

View attachment 21615


Also Rob, this is an old distributor with a mechanical advancing system. The advancing system has no doubt undergone some wear by now.
When you do get it working again, go ahead and set your BASE advance, but also make sure that the system is providing the correct progressive and total advance. In other words, do not set BASE advance and then walk away!

See your OEM ignition advance curve for this info.



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I didn’t know I should try to remove the original reluctor. The new parts fit easily without removing that, but I can try to remove it. Also, I am not able to see your attachment.

thanks,
 
FYI..... the Pertronix unit that was linked to in post #7 is for a 4 cylinder engine....... it would have only 4 embedded magnets in the triggering wheel.


Robrobrob said:
I didn’t know I should try to remove the original reluctor.
I was just asking if you were able to, or were required to remove it for the Pertronix kit installation.
It would appear to me that the Pertronix triggering wheel would need to install at the same elevation as the reluctor wheel.
(see *** and my second image below)

The new parts fit easily without removing that, but I can try to remove it. Also, I am not able to see your attachment.

Sorry about that..... here it is again.

Pertronix VR replacement for Robrobrob.jpg

thanks,
Click to expand...

Robrobrob said:
Would leaving the old reluctor cause it not to work?
Typically the Pertronix triggering wheel slides down over the contact points cam. The rotor installs above that!
The sensor unit aligns with the "induction field" created by the embedded magnets within the triggering wheel.

With a VR system, the reluctor sits at the same elevation as the contact points would have, and again, the rotor installs above that!
The VR sensor unit aligns with the "induction field" created by the reluctor wheel.

*** All of these sensor plates would mount at the same elevation, be it contact points, VR or Pertronix Hall Effect.


As I wrote earlier, it cranks but no spark.
Did you purchase a kit for a 6 cylinder engine?
6 cylinders require 6 embedded magnets in the triggering wheel.
Click to expand...

This may help a bit also.


Pertronix VR replacement for Robrobrob 2 .jpg



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What you need to do is cut your $$ losses at this point, pull that crap out and replace it with a Delco EST.

Pertronix is real crap. Converting an already obsolete and worn distributor is not the answer.
 
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Docksidemarineservices said:
What you need to do is cut your $$ losses at this point, pull that crap out and replace it with a Delco EST.
That is certainly an option!

Pertronix is real crap.
While not using those exact words, I have made mention of this many times.

You'd have equal or better results building your own ignition system using 1960s Gilbert Erector kit parts, and a few 1957 Heath Kit radio components.:D
Click to expand...



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