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Help with figuring out my engine an 8.1L VP from a 1997 Pursuit

carboncow

Contributing Member
So I've been over on the VP inboard forum and have got little input. We have found little info on how to identify our 1997 8.1L engine in a Pursuit Denali with a VP outdrive. A recent document I have found (see attached) explains how to find the ID and it mentions that during our year range the 94-00 these engines are built during a joint venture with OMC.

So the engine is out and my buddy is rebuilding it but he's never done an 8.1L we are starting to look or full rebuild kids and EVERYTHING we find in the internets is for a 2000+ 8.1L! Up til now I've always been looking for VP 8.1L but even putting in GM turns up only 2000+.

Can someone point me into the right direction to determine and specs/codes on what 8.1L (fuel injection) I have and how to cross reference kids?

Thx. 2019-08-06_23-35-42.jpg
 

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  • AD-E06-86-122175_Volvo_Penta_And_Mercruiser_Engine_ID copy.pdf
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You may want to post pictures of your engine. GM did not produce the 8.1L engine until around 2001.

You may have an 8.2L which is just the 502 BBC.

chris, thanks. I think I just realized this too after looking at dates on the GM big block wiki page. Of course I now hav3 convinced myself it must be a 7.4L. You had to complicate it now!!

Did Volvo do the 502?

ill se if I got a photo of use to you.
 
I'm going to go with a 7.4

Assuming this is a salt water used engine as it is in a Pursuit . A 22 year old raw water cooled, salt water engine is not rebuildable.

There are a lot of backyard mechanics that would rebuild that block. Don't do it. Find a good freshwater cooled core to build.
 
Rebuilding will cost about 30% more than buying a reconditioned long block.

hmmm...

We are looking at kits (with pistons) for less then $1000 and he's charging $500 for the clean and rebuild (retired mechanic). Haven't determined if we need to go 0.10 over yet.

Got any hot leads on long blocks that are that cheap?
 
"I'm going to go with a 7.4

Assuming this is a salt water used engine as it is in a Pursuit . A 22 year old raw water cooled, salt water engine is not rebuildable.

There are a lot of backyard mechanics that would rebuild that block. Don't do it. Find a good freshwater cooled core to build."


Thanks...are you thinking water passages are compromised?
 
Rust and corrosion follow no certain and/or predictable paths..... the cast iron may be OK in one area, and not OK in others.
Do as Chris suggests, pick up automotive cores and go from there!
 
Rust and corrosion follow no certain and/or predictable paths..... the cast iron may be OK in one area, and not OK in others.
Do as Chris suggests, pick up automotive cores and go from there!

What are best sources for new cores? Seems to be a lot of variations in the 7.4L over the year. I hate to buy someone else's bad core when I knew I had a good running (but tired) one!

Thx.
 
What are best sources for new cores? Seems to be a lot of variations in the 7.4L over the year. I hate to buy someone else's bad core when I knew I had a good running (but tired) one!

Thx.

Good running and tired is not the issue with a raw/salt water cooled engine block. The issue is the scaling and loss of Iron in the engine block, a 22 year old engine block. You may be able to bore it .010 over and get a nice finish. The problem is the .005 cylinder bore block thickness that is left over, Instant Failure upon first start and you $1000.00 rebuild kit just became junk along with your tie and block boring expense.

So stop asking your retired Auto Mechanic/Mailman for advice and listen to the paid professionals. If you want a trouble free rebuild, find a local machine shop and have them supply you with a bare block...They will have a nice auto/truck antifreeze cooled block for you.
 
Good running and tired is not the issue with a raw/salt water cooled engine block. The issue is the scaling and loss of Iron in the engine block, a 22 year old engine block. You may be able to bore it .010 over and get a nice finish. The problem is the .005 cylinder bore block thickness that is left over, Instant Failure upon first start and you $1000.00 rebuild kit just became junk along with your tie and block boring expense.

So stop asking your retired Auto Mechanic/Mailman for advice and listen to the paid professionals. If you want a trouble free rebuild, find a local machine shop and have them supply you with a bare block...They will have a nice auto/truck antifreeze cooled block for you.

Thanks for the info and it's respected.

Not sure how to take the comment about the friend...I'll assume it's just humor and not being to rude. Not sure why anyone would disparage a person who has been wrenching on diesel and marine engines for over 40 years. He's raced tunnel boats professionally for years too so he's knowledge is worth something to.
 
Thanks for the info and it's respected.

Not sure how to take the comment about the friend...I'll assume it's just humor and not being to rude. Not sure why anyone would disparage a person who has been wrenching on diesel and marine engines for over 40 years. He's raced tunnel boats professionally for years too so he's knowledge is worth something to.

It's my sarcasm.

In the old days of marine engine repair "lets get it working" was the motto and "that is good enough" was the limit of the repair. Rebuilding a 22 year old salt water block falls into this.

These days, with the liability involved, Do it right and 100% or don't do the job. That is the way I do business.
 
It's my sarcasm.

In the old days of marine engine repair "lets get it working" was the motto and "that is good enough" was the limit of the repair. Rebuilding a 22 year old salt water block falls into this.

These days, with the liability involved, Do it right and 100% or don't do the job. That is the way I do business.

Thanks Chris...you sold me.

I got a buddy with a marine shop out of the area and he's trying to source me a freshwater Gen 6 block with a known history.
 
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