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1988 force outboard Flywheel magnetic

Rick69

Rick69

New member
Hi, My name is Rick
When I was changing the stator. I notice that my flywheel magnetic was sticking to my it.
Is it alright to use JB weld epoxy to glue it back on my flywheel?
Thanks Rick
 
Too thick.
Get something thin like a super glue.
Make sure you clean the surfaces real good, magnet too.
Clean it and then clean it again.
Leave some scratches in the magnet so the glue can get in.

Glue it in place and then take a thin piece of metal like a razor blade and slide it
in the crack of the ends of the magnet.
Try to spread it.
Then after it dries, try to fit it and make sure it doesn't rub.
 
Jerryjerry05 said:
Too thick.
Get something thin like a super glue.
Make sure you clean the surfaces real good, magnet too.
Clean it and then clean it again.
Leave some scratches in the magnet so the glue can get in.

Glue it in place and then take a thin piece of metal like a razor blade and slide it
in the crack of the ends of the magnet.
Try to spread it.
Then after it dries, try to fit it and make sure it doesn't rub.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response!!!!!
I well give it try and let you know if it works.
Thanks again Rick
 
The flywheel is all clean up and magnetic is glued back on. Here is the finished flywheel.
Here is a pic of my stator. Now I know why my #1& #2 was not getting any spark.
My stator has ten burnt ones and ten good ones.
I think my magic came off the flywheel and fried the stator.
Thanks again for all your help Rick.
 

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outboardignitiondotcom
They have the test procedures and specs for your motor.
Fairly easy test, but a stator that tests good can be bad.
But if it tests bad, it probably is.

Your probably right about it being bad.
Probably wrong about the magnet coming off ruining it.
A stator can go bad for no reason.
In had a 21 Trophy 1988 (next one bigger than your 19)with twin 85's and
the magnets came off on both motors and didn't hurt anything.
 
There might be one problem!!!!!
After gluing the magnetic back on the flywheel everything looked good.
I let glue set up for 24hrs.
My new stator came 7 day early. (That's a good thing) but when I tried to to insert the new stator it would not fit.
You replied that the magnetic ring shouldn't rub the stator. It should be free all the way around.
Man I hope I don't need to buy a new flywheel!!!
$630.00 new and $200.00 and up for a used one.
I've already got about $1300.00 in to the motor. Her is a pic.of stator and flywheel.20190802_175633.jpg20190802_175545.jpg20190802_175454.jpg
 
This what I have done so far...
I have changed out all 4 coil packes from CDI Electronics.
All new spark plugs.
Getting ready to change my stator and trigger from CDI Electronics too.
New starter
The only thing I have not changed yet on the electrical system is my power packs.
Cleaned all wire connection and replaced all bad ends.

Thanks Rick
 
Before you buy, try swapping the packs around.
Then if there is no spark on the top 2 then change the stator.
If the no spark changes to the bottom 2 then the packs probably bad.
The old coils, in 35 years I've only seen 1 of these packs go bad.

The mid 80's coils and packs came with the plugin connectors.
They thought the connectors were causing early failures, then they went to the screw down type.

Also if the tachometer's bad, that can also cause a no spark situation.

As far as the stator fitting, mount it and then try to turn.
Then you can sand the magnet down so it fits.

200$ for a flywheel sucks.
 
Thanks for well needed help Jerry
Motor is a 1251x8c
Will got thing back together. It fires up great.
Now going to set the trimming and idle.
My clymer Force outboard shop manual say to ground the plug wires and bypass the neutral switch. Then put it in full throttle operating range. Using a trimming light put it on plug 1 and crank it and set it at 28° BTDC.
Does that sound right?
Another thing is the torque on my propeller 55 ft.-lb
The flywheel torque is 90 ft.- lb does that sound right.
Thanks again Rick
 
Took the boat out today and still run ruff. 10mph is top speed but when we squeeze the primer bulb it picks up a lot. It will run about 52mph as soon as we stop priming it it boges down and run real ruff. I changed out the gas line I think it might be to small and it has a quick release on it with alot smaller hole. Here are some pics.
I was wondering how the fuel pump works if there are no wires going to it.
 

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The factory used 1/4" hoses.

Any fuel coming from the front of the carbs?
Not tiny dribbles.
Yes, take the carbs off and inspect the reeds.

You have a built in tank.
You don't need any inline connectors.
I had a 21 with twin 88/85s I removed both quick disconnects as soon as I got my boat.
There's rubber seals that go bad.

Usually if you need to choke to keep it running then the fuel pump needs checking.

The pump works off of a vacuum from the #3 cyl.
 
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