1981 Volvo Penta transmission shift issue solved??

My 1981 Bayliner 3220 runs twin Volvo Penta BB140A's with MS3 inboard transmissions. For years when you pushed the black shift lever forward on the port engine, it took about a minute to engage fully! Last summer I changed out the transmission oil in both. The oil was pretty old, dark and stinky for not being changed in quite awhile. I replaced the oil last summer with what the Volvo manual said to use the same oil as you use in the engine (5-30wt). The shifting issue was still the same! Last week I drained the 5-30wt out and filled with Lucas Transmission Fix. Now it shifts forward immediately! Question is- should I leave the Lucas Oil in that port transmission, or run it for a several hours than change back to the 5-30wt oil?

mpt said:

My 1981 Bayliner 3220 runs twin Volvo Penta BB140A's with MS3 inboard transmissions. For years when you pushed the black shift lever forward on the port engine, it took about a minute to engage fully! Last summer I changed out the transmission oil in both. The oil was pretty old, dark and stinky for not being changed in quite awhile. I replaced the oil last summer with what the Volvo manual said to use the same oil as you use in the engine (5-30wt). The shifting issue was still the same! Last week I drained the 5-30wt out and filled with Lucas Transmission Fix. Now it shifts forward immediately! Question is- should I leave the Lucas Oil in that port transmission, or run it for a several hours than change back to the 5-30wt oil?

Click to expand...

The MS3 internal primary reduction gear/shift components are almost identical to the earlier AQ series stern drives.
I think what's going on with yours, is that the rotating gear cup is not creating enough friction between itself and the sliding sleeve during initial gear engagement.
A certain amount of friction is required in order for the sliding sleeve to pull itself into the gear cup via the steep spiral-cut splines on the vertical shaft.

Common causes for slow or no lock-up:
...... debris in the oiling grooves on the sliding sleeve.
...... incorrect gear oil.
...... worn sliding sleeve and gear cup surfaces.
...... incorrect eccentric piston/shift shoe travel.


As for running the lighter weight Lucas Transmission oil, it must offer less friction protection, therefor the gear cup and sliding sleeve are able to lock up.
I would NOT leave that oil in there.... I think that it may be too light for gear/bearing lubrication.

Suggestion:
First examine the eccentric piston and shift shoe. Is the shift shoe raising or lowering the sliding sleeve fully and properly?

If all is OK...... pull the MS3 apart and clean and lap the cups and sliding sleeve.
There is a method to be used that will ensure an even lap between these two surfaces.
(more on that if you are interested)

NOTE: Volvo Penta does not recognize nor suggest lapping these surfaces as a "fix" procedure. They want to sell new parts.
You may have trouble finding a shop who is willing to lap these components, or even know how to do it!

However, I can tell you first hand that it does work. I've done it many times!
But like said, there is a method to be used that will ensure an even lap between the surfaces. It is done on the work bench with no special tools required.





.

continued:


These components are from an AQ series stern drive. Your MS-3 will be very similar.

Thanks for the awesome diagram on how to troubleshoot my concurring forward shifting problem! Reverse shifts fine???? Is there a method on how to access the internal parts without having to pull the transmission out? It's an inboard 140BBA 4 cylinder Volvo Penta. I noticed that the transmission is also a rear engine mount! If not able to access the transmission internally, is there a manual on pulling an MS3 transmission from the engine?

Hi Rick,

I cam across this thread and you seem to know your stuff, so...

My boat is a Grand Banks 36 sedan with twin TAMD41A / MS4A engine/gearboxes which I've owned for 15 years. (2nd owner I believe). It has four lever Morse control, i.e. separate throttles/gears and dual stations.

Since 'Day-Dot', it has been difficult to select neutral. Very often, you think you've got neutral only to find you're still making way: embarrassing at best, dangerous at worst. I would say that the port gearbox is worse but not by a lot. Sometimes if I'm not careful, I'll go past neutral to opposite direction.

If I try to move to move to neutral VERY slowly, you can feel the cones grabbing and the control cables pulsating.

I have:
- replaced cables with new technology low friction cables.
- checked for slack and/or wear in linkages etc.
- drained and refilled gearboxes with fresh oil. (minimal contamination evident)
- disconnected upper station to see if that makes a difference.

I'm wondering whether oil type is a significant factor? I once had an Italian exotic car with cone type synchros and the correct oil was crucial: changing to OEM Agip made an amazing difference.

Whilst I've lived with this for a long time, I'd really like to fix it if possible. I also want to install electronic controls (Glendinning) but I worry that they might not select neutral reliably. Ideally the controls should have some hysteresis in the neutral position.

Any pointers or advice would be most welcome. BTW: I am in Australia.

Cheers,

Ted

I am interested in this thread, as my issue is almost EXACTLY like what Bytecrafter has displayed. Almost to a T. Even the boat is similar.
Has there been any movement on this?