Logo

Oil tank does not auto fill. Mode

djpetty

New member
Model 115TLRY. 1999 or 2000?
6E5 L 407378

Manual switch will fill engine tank. Replaced engine tank float switch and pump controller. Need help. Engine runs fine. Low oil alarm will sound but I have to take cowl off ad fill manually
 
Alarm triggers when reservior is low and when main tank is low. If both filled, motor and sensor is functional, then it's conductivity. Test the harness ground first, as the ground is usually the issue w/saltwater outboards.
 
The alarm will sound only when the main engine mounted oil tank is low. The remote tank could be low or it could be full.

For the automatic transfer system to work the CDI must be receiving a ground from the remote oil tank sensor. As noted, the wire harness from the motor to the remote tank can have poor conductivity. Either from the block to the sensor, the sensor itself could have failed, or from the sensor to the CDI.
 
The alarm will sound only when the main engine mounted oil tank is low. The remote tank could be low or it could be full.

For the automatic transfer system to work the CDI must be receiving a ground from the remote oil tank sensor. As noted, the wire harness from the motor to the remote tank can have poor conductivity. Either from the block to the sensor, the sensor itself could have failed, or from the sensor to the CDI.[/QUOTE

Thank you
i will check into this but help me understand. If the manual switch works don’t I have a good ground? There are four wires to the remote tank under the seat. Two for level sensor and two for pump.
 
Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground.

The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI.

The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home.
 
Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground.

The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI.

The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home.

Ok thank you I understand now. So if I disconnect the four pin connector at the remote tank on the boat Not the engine tank. Two of the wires should have continuity to ground, correct? One for pump and one for level switch
 
Yes, two of the four wires will have a ground. But one only if the toggle switch is pressed.

But having a ground to the switch is not enough. The ground has to be able to make its way all the way back to the motor. The circuit has to be completed.

Follow the diagram in your service manual.

2dv7wnl.jpg
 
I have a 2005 250 txrd and having the same problem. Both sensors check ok with a meter the motor runs with the e/switch and on the bench. I checked continuity from the motor to the remote tank. Have a negative on all the black wires involved. I have a service manual. What am I missing?
 
A ground has to go from the block, to the remote tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. Via a problematic connector or two.

A ground has to go from the block, to the main oil tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI.

A lack of either ground will inhibit the automatic transfer system.
 
A ground has to go from the block, to the remote tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. Via a problematic connector or two.

A ground has to go from the block, to the main oil tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI.

A lack of either ground will inhibit the automatic transfer system.

My print shows an ecm (electronic control module) is that the same as a CDI?
I have a ground on the black wires would that eliminate a bad connection on the block?
I have checked continuity on both sensors the next thing I could is check voltage.
I don't like sticking pins in the wires is that my only option
 
Before you start with the wiring, did you check the filter on the remote tank? The oil pump runs at two speeds, slow when the float in the Main(engine) tank is activated and fast when the emergency switch is activated.

If the filter is clogged it will not pass oil when in slow speed but will pass oil when in high speed.

The filter can not be cleaned.

If the pump is verified to not be coming on at all from the float switch, do yourself a favor get a replacement harness for the remote oil tank, lay it out across the deck of the boat, hook it up and retest.

I have changed at least a dozen of these harnesses in the last 5 years, The will test good with an ohm meter and fail under load. When you remove the old harness from the rigging tube you will see the wires will be swollen.
 
Gotcha I was thinking the same thing it will read continuity but not pass current. will change the harness from the engine to the remote tank and get a new filter.
thanks
 
I have a 2005 250 txrd and having the same problem. Both sensors check ok with a meter the motor runs with the e/switch and on the bench. I checked continuity from the motor to the remote tank. Have a negative on all the black wires involved. I have a service manual. What am I missing?
What is the complete model of your motor? There was no 250TXRD provided by Yamaha USA in 2005.

A 250TXRD would be a two stroke carburetted model. A two stroke carburetted 250 HP model was not available in the USA. I am guessing that you have a Z250TXRD or a VZ250TXRD. Why is it so hard to type those extra letters?

The Z250TXRD and the VZ250TXRD have an ECU. Similar, but different, to CDI. The brains of the motor. From the automatic oil transfer system standpoint they work the same. From 1996 and later that is.
 
The oil transfer pump is not a two speed pump. One speed only. It the system is transferring oil by use of the toggle switch for this purpose then the filter is more than likely just fine.
 
Ohming a wire for continuity is all but meaningless. Will send a trouble shooter down the rabbit hole. Best to check for voltage with the system loaded.
 
Try a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half a tank.

Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low.
 
Wrong, the pump runs at a slower speed when activated by the float.
Absolutely positively not.

The oil transfer pump has system (battery or generator) voltage to it all of the time when the key is on. Either the CDI/ECU or the toggle switch provides the ground to run the pump. There is no variable voltage to that pump.

The float switches only provide ground references to the CDI/ECU.

You may be thinking of an OX66 fuel pump that runs at two speeds. Or you may be thinking of the HPDI pump that provides a bit of oil to the gasoline in the VST.
 
what is the complete model of your motor? There was no 250txrd provided by yamaha usa in 2005.

A 250txrd would be a two stroke carburetted model. A two stroke carburetted 250 hp model was not available in the usa. I am guessing that you have a z250txrd or a vz250txrd. Why is it so hard to type those extra letters?

The z250txrd and the vz250txrd have an ecu. Similar, but different, to cdi. The brains of the motor. From the automatic oil transfer system standpoint they work the same. From 1996 and later that is.

z250txrd hpdi
 
z250txrd hpdi
In a Z250TXRD the brains of the motor is called an engine control module. ECM. Aka an ECU. It controls the automatic transfer of the oil from the remote tank to the main tank. Same thing that a CDI assembly does in other Yamaha models.

Did you find your problem?
 
In a Z250TXRD the brains of the motor is called an engine control module. ECM. Aka an ECU. It controls the automatic transfer of the oil from the remote tank to the main tank. Same thing that a CDI assembly does in other Yamaha models.

Did you find your problem?
no hadn't had much time to fool with it going to try to get to it today
might be a dumb question but on the e/switch and the float switch it controls the negative to the transfer motor, shouldn't there be a positive on the brown wire all the time ?
 
Try a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half

Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low.
I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarm
then it started raining. going to put it in the water and try it...
Thanks
 
I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarm
then it started raining. going to put it in the water and try it...
Thanks
You turned the key off before the initial auto fill procedure was completed. That is the only time that the pump will run without the motor running.

After all else fails, follow instructions.
 
You turned the key off before the initial auto fill procedure was completed. That is the only time that the pump will run without the motor running.

After all else fails, follow instructions.
ha ha yep should have time this weekend will follow instructions...
thanks
 
Is there a wiring diagram I could see I’m having the same issues…. Or maybe you can tell me what the wires at the remote rank should be when the switch is activated ?
 
Back
Top