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At my wits end with this qd-17 10hp

joereeves said:
So how did you manage to break your arm? And don't say it was lifting that Budweiser too quickly! :)
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I had my hands behind my head putting my hair in a ponytail when I tripped over my dog, my hand went forward to catch my balance and ended up like karate chopping the top of my kitchen chair, broke both bones.. Ya I'm a Rocken Roll Grand Pa.. lol
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And you're a proud PaPa too huh? Good for you.

Me? I was never the pony tail type... I was more of the Fonzie type in my home town of yesteryear.

Never broke a arm... my right leg is another matter. Me & my brother law (ex marine) teaching my son some martial arts. Damn marine broke both bones clean off between the knee and ankle. That really smarted! :)

Looking forward to hearing that engine problem is cured.
 
Just got it back together.. same thing.. nothing has changed, runs the same as it did months ago when I first got it.. Top cylinder drops in and out.. lift up or push down on the mag or ignition plate and it coming into it, runs fine, let go of the plate and the top hole miss fires.. I have changed the ignition plate and it's mount , coils, points, condensers, everything 100 times.. where is my hammer I'll post a video in a few.. Looks like the flywheel is loose but that could be the camera.. maybe the coils are hitting the magnets I can't move them back any further without having to drill out the mounting holes..
 
393Clevor said:
Just got it back together.. same thing.. nothing has changed...... (1) - lift up or push down on the mag or ignition plate and it coming into it, runs fine, let go of the plate and the top hole miss fires.. I have changed the ignition plate and it's mount , coils, points, condensers, everything 100 times... (2) - maybe the coils are hitting the magnets I can't move them back any further without having to drill out the mounting holes..
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(1) - Now, there's something I don't recall reading previously, and obviously it's something that would affect the point setting and the top cylinder. That ignition plate (Armature Plate) should not move either up or down. The cure follows:
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(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make a slight indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

Use a small amount of anti corrosive grease between the aluminum ring and the brass support plate and also on the brass bushing of the armature plate when all is well.
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And as for where the coils belong, see below:
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(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
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working on it, going to take all the play out, there is no side to side just up and down and very little.. I move it while watching the points and they don't move.. but who knows I'll try anything...
 
You state that in moving that plate up or down, it affects the top cylinder... either something's moving or a plug wire is shorting out.
 
Ok I just ordered a new bait caster with a 9.1:1 gear ratio tried fishing with a 3.1:1 with a broken arm sucks..

On to my 10hp..
Thought I would miss around with the original 56 mount and see if I could tighten it up without bending it and it seems someone already tried.. so first I planed down the pivot so to speak and that helped a lot way way tighter..

before... you can see the groove worn into it by the brass ring it spins on..
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after some time on my home made plainer..
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way tighter... now I have to take the motor apart and see what it all looks like in there..
 
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Instead of denting the brass mounting ring I sanded the surfaces to bring it back nice and tight..

first I stuck some 220 paper on the ring and sanded the shoulder down on the ignition plate to the same thickness as the brass ring
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then sanded the shoulder to fit the brass ring..
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Nice and tight now just like new...

https://youtu.be/QZAYU2ezBeE
 
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I dunno... perhaps I'm looking at it wrong. It looks like you're having the beveled side of that aluminum ring against the brass plate. It is the flat side of the aluminum ring that goes against the bottom of the brass plate.
 
joereeves said:
I dunno... perhaps I'm looking at it wrong. It looks like you're having the beveled side of that aluminum ring against the brass plate. It is the flat side of the aluminum ring that goes against the bottom of the brass plate.
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it's right trust me.. see video.. no more play..
 
to hot right now to finish it and my arm is not doing to well after sanding everything flat and tight.. the brass mount wears out, it gets thin.. so you have to either bend it or machine the shoulder on the ignition plate to fit the now worn out brass mount.. that's what I did, I sanded the grooves out of the bottom ring and used it as a tool to sand the shoulder down on the bottom of the ignition plate to fit the thinner brass mount..
 
joereeves said:
I dunno... perhaps I'm looking at it wrong. It looks like you're having the beveled side of that aluminum ring against the brass plate. It is the flat side of the aluminum ring that goes against the bottom of the brass plate.
Click to expand...

the last picture above is the brass mounting plate up against the bottom of the ignition plate that shoulder is to thick and needs to be the same as the brass, the pic above that one is how I sanded it down using the bottom ring as a tool with a few screws in it so I could turn while sanding it down.. working awesome.. thing is better than new.. nice and tight..
 
393Clevor said:
the last picture above is the brass mounting plate up against the bottom of the ignition plate that shoulder is to thick and needs to be the same as the brass, the pic above that one is how I sanded it down using the bottom ring as a tool with a few screws in it so I could turn while sanding it down.. working awesome.. thing is better than new.. nice and tight..
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But it does still revolve freely doesn't it?
 
joereeves said:
But it does still revolve freely doesn't it?
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smooth as a babies behind.. real nice.. but it still runs like ****... I'm all alone today and having a hard time pulling it to start it.. left handed, almost pulling it out of the barrel lol.. I think it's running on both holes now.. I'll know better when I have some help..
 
Nice consistent spark from both holes now, ignition plate is tight and right so no problems with that... Now it's that 2 dollar piece of crap carburetor kit I bought, I got a new OEM kit coming from this site.. till then have a good one folks..
 
Ha, Joe, your a blast. I finally had to chime in here. That post is CRITICAL , but RARELY a problem. I ALWAYS check for smooth operation of the points and LUBRICATE that post with exceptional quality synthetic grease from Amsoil......doing this BEFORE you hook up the spring. Congradulations, brother......you found the problem yourself. I'll have to buy you a beer if we ever meet.
 
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