03 Honda 225 overheating?

I was running my 225 and inadvertently raised trim on too high gear shift. The engine sputtered and shut down. I looked back and realized my hand raised the motor up. I lowered the motor, let it cool and cranked it up. It idled fine so I started to run and it quit running and signaled an alarm. Seatow pulled me in. When placed on rack I tried running on cuffs. Shortly an alarm sounded so shut her down. Pee stream was strong. Where do I start troubleshooting? I plan to start with impeller.

If you have a good pee stream then it is not likely the impeller. Somebody will have some good ideas I am certain. Me, I wonder if you need to clear the overheat code.

Thanks Crunchy 21. Good point. My next thoughts would be thermostats. They are two years old but may have been damaged.

The BF 225 will overheat on muffs normally unless you have exceptional water pressure, which most don't have. You need to test it in a barrel filled with fresh water and the water constantly being refreshed. Otherwise, it will quickly heat up. Remove prop first.

Yes, change out the impeller and observe whether or not any pieces are missing. Usually it's best in these situations to change out the whole water pump because an overheat will often warp the pump liner - that is, the piece that the impeller fins ride against. The difference between an impeller kit and the water pump kit is about $80 on boats.net.
See: https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...25hp/bf225a6-xca-2006/water-pump-impeller-set

Pull fault codes. Then clear them. Then test the engine again. The procedure for getting and clearing fault codes is attached.
View attachment Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf

What the fault codes mean is attached.
View attachment MIL fault codes.pdf

Let us know what codes you get before clearing them. Then let us know what codes you get after you run the engine and get an alarm.

Typically in an overheat situation, if the t-stats stick, they will get stuck open, so normally the engine would be running too cool. No alarm for that. However, if you are running in saltwater, it's always a good idea to remove the t-stats, clean them, clean out any corrosion under the seats, and reinstall with new O rings.

CHawk Man

Thanks for all the great information. Unfortunately my ignition switch only has red and green lights, not 4. Any suggestions?

When I can go back to FL, I plan to install new water pump kit as you suggest and check/flush thermostats.

Thanks again,
H Pappy

Without the 4-light key switch you cannot pull codes by shunting the service connector. You need to find someone with Dr. H, the Honda Diagnostic System, who can then pull codes. BUT - you can clear the current codes using the method described in the document I attached.

Down the road, you may want to have someone install the 4-light key switch set up. You may be able you use your current harness, but be prepared to buy a new one.

When you inspect the impeller and pieces are missing, then you need to try to flush out any pieces that may have lodged in internal water passages. With the lower leg still off, you remove one t-stat at a time and seal a garden hose in the t-stat opening and flush from there with as much water pressure as you can get. Then do the other t-stat the same way.

Thanks again. Didn’t know about the 4 light system. So a code will not go away including alarm until cleared?

Over heat does not log a code, it logs an event which is only readable with Dr H.

Ian - thanks for the clarification. I should have said that. I was assuming that something else may have been going on since he said that he had a strong telltale.