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Starter Trouble

1972 Chris Craft Lancer 350QL. I have an issue of the starter nose cone breaking. I know this might be from a timing issue so I am open for any suggestions on timing this engine. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem? CCW rotation starter. Thanks Matt
 
Try using one of today's HTGR/PMGR starter motors.
Make sure that it is correct for the engine rotation and for the flywheel diameter (153 tooth or 168 tooth).

BASE advance will be in the neighborhood of 8* to 10* @ idle RPM.
More importantly will be the Progressive advance and the Total advance.
You should see a rather linear curve with a Full-In advance of approx 28* @ 3,200 RPM.
See your OEM ignition advance curve as to verify.

Some of this was mentioned in your other thread.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...3483-1972-CC-Lancer-350QL&p=648502#post648502



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Thanks Rick! Timing is all set. Boat ran great this week plenty of power and smooth. In my neck of the woods there seems to be no other Chris Craft boats or marinas that know anything about them. This forum has been a huge blessing! I have a couple of specific questions so I will start another thread so that other searching can find specific answeres easy. Thanks again! Matt.
 
What are you seeing for an advance @ 3,200 RPM?


Rick, I used an advanced timing gun set it at 10* @500 rpm engaged. The indicator pin is dead center of the dimple marked L. Then @ 3,200 rpm with the gun set to 28* the indicator is still dead center of the dimple. On a different note I'm still running a temp of 140 at idle and 210-215 at 3,200 rpm pulling two tubes. it doesn't climb past that just stays there. I was going to start a new thread on this issue. Someone mentioned it could be the bushing that is on the foot where the grease fitting is having some wear in it causing the pump to loose prime. I don't know!
 
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Rick, I used an advanced timing gun set it at 10* @500 rpm engaged. The indicator pin is dead center of the dimple marked L. Then @ 3,200 rpm with the gun set to 28* the indicator is still dead center of the dimple.
I do not use the digitally advancing timing lights. One user or equipment error, and your advance may be off!
I use a standard strobe style timing light.
I mark off the harmonic balancer up to 35 degrees BTDC.
Then I strobe the marks and look at BASE advance, and then I increase RPM as to see the progressive and total advance
This way I can see Real Degrees in Real Time, and with very little likelihood of errors.



On a different note I'm still running a temp of 140 at idle and 210-215 at 3,200 rpm pulling two tubes. it doesn't climb past that just stays there.
If your reading is accurate, that is far too hot!
I would take an Infra Red heat gun out with you as to verify.

Someone mentioned it could be the bushing that is on the foot where the grease fitting is having some wear in it causing the pump to loose prime. I don't know!
You lost me on that one!
 
re: "On a different note I'm still running a temp of 140 at idle and 210-215 at 3,200 rpm pulling two tubes. it doesn't climb past that just stays there.
If your reading is accurate, that is far too hot!
I would take an Infra Red heat gun out with you as to verify. "

That's because water at atmospheric pressure BOILS at 212.
 
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