2000 Honda 130 shifting lever

Hello everyone,
First time poster.
After a significant amount of forum research, I cannot seem to find another post that details the symptoms I am having. Perhaps I am simply not asking the right question.
My problem started while underway. After running the engine for a while we got to the fishing grounds, killed engine. When i started her back up, I couldn’t move the throttle shifter all the way forward to give it RPM, however it was engaging in forward. After replacing throttle cables and throttle binnacle I realized that the position of the black plastic shifting lever that the shifter cable attaches to, has changed. I couldn't move the throttle because the engine was already in gear, and the cable was still trying to pull it forward. So after disconnecting the shifter cable, I've been manually adjusting the shifting lever. Right now my shifting lever, when perpendicular to the engine, and where I assume neutral should about be, has the gears engaging in forward. In addition, when the engine is in forward, the shift arm plate's dimple is centered on that roller (once again where it should be when in neutral) and slightly engaging the neutral detent. When I shift to neutral, the shifting lever goes back almost all the way back to the oil pan, to the point that putting it into reverse is impossible.
So my main question is how did that black plastic shifting lever change position while I was underway? It seems as though something is unseated, and I have no idea what.
Thank you in advance,
Kiernan
Photos are too high res for the website I would be happy to email them to whomever.

It is possible your shift shaft gears have become out of synch. Part numbers 5 & 9
https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-vin-bzbe-1300001-to-bzbe-1400000/shift-shaft
You can easily check this without any disassembly by visually confirming if the lower shift shaft circlip #32 is still in place or not. Look in the space at the top of the swivel case.
If the circlip has been dislodged (can happen when refitting the lower unit if the shift rods don't align), the #5 gear moves upward & goes out of mesh/synch with #9 .

Bob

Bob,
Thank you very much for the prompt response. After more research in the manual and working backwards on the engine I absolutely agree this is the problem.
I believe the circlip is still in place, but I am not 100% sure. Could I send you a photo to confirm? Also wondering if theres a way to realign shift shaft A and B, without gaining direct access to the dang oil pan. Finally because I was underway while this problem spontaneously occurred, I'm curious what you think the origins of this problem could be.
Thanks again,
Kiernan

Hi Kiernan
post your photo on this forum as it may help others who may have this problem in the future.
If the circlip is still in place, I would suggest removing the gearcase & checking the orientation of the shift ROD A #12

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...001-to-bzbe-1199999/water-pump-vertical-shaft
The flat side of the spline should be facing forward when in neutral.
If the shift SHAFT A & B require aligning, that can be done with just the gearcase removed.
The cause of the problem will become apparent when you find what the problem is.

Bob

Bob
Took the lower unit off, and it does appear that the lower shift rod is out of alignment. I have attached a photo of the swivel case, wondering if you can confirm if the circclip is still attached?
There does seem to be a little vertical play in the lower shift rod, but not too much. So, is the diagnosis right now is that after going out in some pretty heavy waves, the circclip detached, creating enough play for the fan gears linking shift rod A and B to pop out of alignment?

What is the process for readjusting the shift rods so that they are in the correct alignment with just the lower unit off? And also will we be sure the fangears are properly aligned without taking off the powerhead?

Thank you so much for your time

-Kiernan

It looks like the circlip has been dislodged, & the washer above it has dropped down # 26 https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-vin-bzbe-1100001-to-bzbe-1199999/shift-shaft
You should be able to realign shift shaft A & B by pushing up with the gearcase shift rod & turning shift shaft A to synchronize them. Then lowering shift shaft A & installing the washer & circlip.
You should not have to remove the power head to do this.
The most likely cause of the circlip being dislodged is if the gearcase has been refitted (e.g. after renewing the water pump impeller) using force when the shift rod splines are not in alignment.

Bob

Hi Bob,
My parts have just arrived. Would you mind going into more detail regarding the process of installing the circ clip and washer? In that photo I posted in the forum, there are home marks directly below the cylinder piece that is seated around the shift shaft. Does this mean I will have to hold that piece and place and slide the lower shift rod up more to get the home marks to align?
Thanks for your time,
Kiernan

Hello Bob,
The plot thickens. Through visual inspection I can see that there is no washer on the lower shift shaft. I am wondering if I could send you some pictures of the shift shaft and its range of motion; the website does not allow me to post files of that size on here.
The lower shift shaft has almost a half an inch of vertical play in it. At both the furthest point I can push the lower shift rod up and the lowest it can be pulled down (granted I am not pushing or pulling very hard) the upper shift rod is still engaged with the lower shift rod as both will move when I move the shifting lever.
I don’t know why there is this much vertical play in the lower shift rod. I also don’t know how I will install the washer to get to the top of the shift shaft, and why there wasn’t a washer there to begin with.
In addition, the cylindrical holder for the shift rod (where the circ clip goes onto) that you can see in my previously attached photo is moving with the shift rod when I push it up and down. What is the relationship between that piece and the shift rod? Is that a physical part of the shift rod? I can’t seem to identify that on any of the parts lists we are seeing.
Sorry for the volume of questions I just feel like I don’t fully understand the scope of the problem.
Kiernan

The washer may have dropped down & lodged inside the swivel tube #5 https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...001-to-bzbe-1199999/stern-bracket-swivel-case

In any case, once you have correctly aligned upper shift shaft B #9 with lower shift shaft A #5
https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...-vin-bzbe-1100001-to-bzbe-1199999/shift-shaft

You will then have to remove shift rod A #12
https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...001-to-bzbe-1199999/water-pump-vertical-shaft
to install the washer. To remove shift rod A (once the gearcase has been removed) attach a pair of pliers or vice grips to the bottom end of the rod & tap the pliers with a hammer. The shift rod will fall out. It is held in place with a tension ring at the top.

Bob

It goes like this on the shift shaft, circlip ,washer,then a spring .the purpose of the circlip is to hold the washer in place so that the spring can do its job as the 2 splines slide into each other the spring pushes down and takes the play up you referring to i did not see you mention a spring .wheres your spring ?

Hmmmm. Not seeing any sign of a spring nor a washer, and I would have because i took the lower unit off after the shifting problems started. Dunno if they just corroded after 20 years or what. What is the reinstallation process for shift shaft A? I thought once that thing drops out its power head time.

Bottom end of gearbox make sure on the spline the cutout side [flat ] is facing to the right this will be your neutral position , on the top end make sure your in that notch [ neutral position ]

IF you ever have to remove the power head make sure you line the dots up on the gear shaft gears and at the same time replace the seal this mtr was used in salt water notice the salt on the seal.

At the same time while your gearbox is off check for salt in here if there is use Durbans Formula to clean it out and cote with epoxy to prevent it .

Thank you sir for this information. Right now the only thing i’ve removed is the lower unit. Still wondering about the procedure for attaching a washer to the lower shift rod, as I assume if I yank that baby out not only will oil come pouring out but wouldn’t it be impossible to get it to reattach to the fangears?
Appreciate the info guys, just wondering what the next step is.
Kiernan

The hole you see where ive the rubber mount sitting on is a blind hole the gear fits in there no oil will come out if you remove the gear shaft on the bottom side of the oil pan its got a seal replace that seal too ,its been a while now since ive done this when i stripped and rebuilt the motor.

Thanks for the info man.
So for attaching the washer onto the lower shift shaft, I’ll attach a pair of vice grips, tap it until it falls out, then slide the washer onto the top of the shift shaft in where the swivel case is? Then what is the reattachment process for putting the shaft back in and connecting it back to the fan gear? Just slide it back up?
if you could go into more detail about the re installation of the lower shift shaft that would be great. Also, is there any way I could get the same function out of a split washer, this not having to drop the shaft out? Maybe pry a split 12mm washer then close it around the shaft with some needle nose? Then atttach my e ring? Just a thought.
Thanks
kiernan

Remove the gearbox then remove the adapter this will give you more space to get a grip on the gear shaft you can clip a vice grip onto it and gently tap it out make a mark on the shaft before you take it out ,so that when you put it back it goes back the same way. you can put what ever washer you want to in there its your motor your choice. It pays to use the correct tools and spares and keep it the way it was designed.

Ok so when I’m putting the shift shaft back in, how will i know when its seated correctly in the fan gear? All that I need is to push the shift shaft far enough so it engages with the tension ring on top? Is there any possibility of me unseating the fan gear when i’m putting the shift shaft back in?

No because the shaft is longer than the height between the power head to the top of the gear push it back in carefully i had no problems assembling mine.