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Crusader 454 1989 runs for 5 seconds then quits.

My starboard engine starts and runs only about 5-7 sec. before shutting down. The oil pressure sending sensor was replaced last year. I'm showing good oil pressure, could I have a choke stuck or float stuck? Any ideas??? Also, what carb does it use or how to identify?
 
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2X on the qjet - qjets are unique - the internet is your biggest source of free informati

they operate best with 4-6 psi....most won't handle 8PSI very well.

will it restart right away??? what's coming out of the exhaust?

flooding are usually easy to detect with your nose.....is there any fuel in the sight tube?
 
2X on the qjet - qjets are unique - the internet is your biggest source of free informati

they operate best with 4-6 psi....most won't handle 8PSI very well.

will it restart right away??? what's coming out of the exhaust?

flooding are usually easy to detect with your nose.....is there any fuel in the sight tube?
It will not restart right away. I do smell a slight gas smell from the exhaust making me think it could be a stuck choke or float. It's hard to do with one person. As for sight tube I don't see one in there.
 
...... As for sight tube I don't see one in there.

That's not good - the sight tube is the yellow tygon tube that runs from the front of the carb down to the fuel pump....as it ages, it will become brown and inflexible. Its purpose is to dump any fuel from a ruptured diaphragm into the carb (vs letting it fill the bilge with gasoline)….

most big blocks, w/ qjets, suffer from 'nozzle drip' at idle and have a tendency to run a bit rich from it. a stuck choke or a bad float will usually cause an easy to observe flooding condition...when it quits, pull the flame arrestor and see if the top of the carb is wet, especially around its perimeter....
 
I think I may have a wiring connection problem with the oil pressure shut off switch. One is N/O, N/C & C. One has a fuse inline which is good but the rest of that wire is suspect. I just thought of this and wonder what I should read on the 3 conn. with a meter?
 
The way your system is wired, while the starter is cranking the fuel pump is receiving voltage to start the engine. As soon as the oil pressure comes up line voltage is directed to the pump to keep the engine running. Sounds like your pump is running during the start cycle but drops off when you come off the starter. Oil pressure switches are very problematic. Recommend you monitor voltage going to the pump immediately after the engine starts. Best place to connect you multimeter is at the fuel pump circuit breaker. Good Luck.
 
One wire goes to the pump, one wire goes to the ignition switch starter circuit, and the last wire is battery/alternator voltage. At rest, the pump and ignition wire are spring-loaded closed. When oil pressure comes up, the pump wire is disconnected from the ignition source and connected to the battery wire. I had a new pressure switch fail in six months ($110 - ouch). They are famous for poor reliability. Might ensure that the battery voltage wire is hot at the pressure switch with the ignition switch on.
 
The NC side of the switch controlling the fuel pump is usually connected to the START side of the ignition switch …. the fuel pump is engaged when the starter is active.....making that conection from the switch to the IGN lead would defeat the intended 'safety feature' of using the oil pressure controlled switch...

And, wih the update that this really isn't a markIV block, you can debug the fuel pump partially by just bypassing the control circuit using a fused jumper to control the pump. if that keep the engine running, then you need to figure out what has gone bad in the control circuit that was implemented when the block was swapped.
 
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Update: No gas to carb. now. Ran out of gas and put 30 gals. in 300 gal. tank. Do I need to prime the electric fuel pump? Could the breaker be tripped? I'm at a loss...
 
If wired correctly and working -- put the trans in gear and turn the key to start. The fuel pump should run to prime the system without the starter running.
 
I think that will only work with the MEFI controller on the injected models.....the carb/electric fuel pump wiring is different....
 
Works all the time with electric fuel pump/carbed engines. Just need to be sure the neutral safety switch is functional to avoid starting in gear.
 
Does the wiring look correct? I was just told by another tech to connect the red wire to C and the brown & purple wires to the N/O post leaving the N/C post empty. I lose 12v after it starts the way it's wired now.
 

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Today I put a new ops on it...still quit after 5 seconds. I looked at the wiring and compared it to the directions in the box. Well, it said one wire goes to the pump, one to the coil and one to the R post on the starter. A new starter was just installed (not by me) and upon looking I found that BOTH red and blue from the oil switch goes to the positive side of the coil. Would THAT be my problem??? Should I connect the red wire from the oil sw to the starter solenoid and try it?
 
May be the 'wiring to the coil' that is the issue...if the connection is at the coil's "+" post, it likely won't run the pump...you need to move the fuel pump feed to the other side of the ballast resistor (assuming the points are still being used).

I have no idea who rewired what to where and can't draw a complete picture based on the picture posted...the pump should connect to the common terminal of the pressure switch, the NC terminal should go to the "R" starter solenoid terminal, and the NO terminal needs to see +12VDC switched by the key...usually the purple wire...
 
Today I put a new ops on it...still quit after 5 seconds. I looked at the wiring and compared it to the directions in the box. Well, it said one wire goes to the pump, one to the coil and one to the R post on the starter. A new starter was just installed (not by me) and upon looking I found that BOTH red and blue from the oil switch goes to the positive side of the coil. Would THAT be my problem??? Should I connect the red wire from the oil sw to the starter solenoid and try it?

FWIW, unless you have a Mark V block with no mechanical fuel pump provision, I would just guy that electric pump, install a mechanical pump, and be done with it. Seems like that pump is giving you more trouble than it's worth.

Unless your points and distributor are perfect at this point, I'd consider gutting an electronic pertronix or D.U.I distributor on the boat. 1989 likely has more than 1,000 hours, and those old distributors aren't known for keeping good, consistent time, IMO. We had a 1983 Scarab and made the swap, it was the best $300 we ever spent on the boat.
 
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