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Checking Coils and CDI

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cdjr

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Hello to all. I have a 1985 85hp Force that i know for sure has a bad stator. There was a burn spot by one of the yellow wires and as soon as i moved it a little, it came off in my hand. My question is there a way to check the rest of the electrical components (coils, CDI, trigger) before i put the money into buying a new stator? It did run last year but this year, i was getting no spark. Compression readings are 111 (top), 112 (mid) and 115 (lwr). At a loss of putting more money into it. Thanks in advance.
 
outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures and sells parts.
This site sells some parts too.

The basic test require an analog meter.
Some of the tests require a DVA or Peak Reading Volt Meter.
The DVA can be added to the regular meter if yours doesn't have it.

The trigger,coils etc. need the stator to be working to test them.

Find a radio repair shop,starter rebuild shop or someplace that can solder the wire back on and then test it??
 
Buy a "factory" manual if at all possible.

The test procedures from Outboardignitiondotcom is way more detailed than any manual.

Clymer or Seloc manuals are poor.
They cover a bunch of different motors and don't have the specifics the OEM has.
 
Got the new stator installed it this morning. Turned over and started right up. Thanks everyone for your ideas and input.

The problem now is the starter drops out before the motor starts sometimes. I turn the key, the starter engages and if the motor does not start within a couple of seconds, the starter just stops and drops back to the home position. Going to try to bypass the solenoid and see if I still has the problem. Any advice is appreciated.
 
I don't think it's the solenoid either. Did a compression test before I bought the stator. 111, 112, and 115 top to bottom. Are there instructions or a procedure for cleaning the starter? I'm still waiting for my service manu. Thanks for the quick reply.
 
Naw just take it apart.
You need some 100g sandpaper or finer.

I reinstall the springs and brushes and tape(long pieces) them back in place.
Then reassemble and pull the tape out when the brushes meet the armature.
Might take a couple of try's, watch the position of the battery lug.
The place where the brushes go, take it out and clean it too.
The armature: sand the place where the brushes go.

After it's done, a tiny bit of thin grease on under the Bendix on the worm gear.
Too much can destroy the Bendix.
The Bendix has a rubber hub and if it gets oily it slips and becomes a paperweight.
 
Cleaned and reassembled the starter. Same issue, darn it. Thanks for the tip on using tape to hold the brushes, it really worked well.

So I am thinking it is the starter. I get the same results when I bypass the solenoid. I wonder if I take the starter off if a local boat repair shop can check it under load?

Thanks again for your help.
 
Compression test?
Battery load test?
Harbor Freight has testers for around $20-25
One of the few tools I would recommend buying from them.
Never buy a comp tester from HF.
 
Picked up a battery load tester yesterday evening. Plan on checking it out today.

One more question. I see starter motors very greatly. Anyone know the difference? I would assume rebuilt vs new?

Thanks
 
Load test and battery checked out fine. Just to see what would happen, I took out the spark plugs and engaged the starter motor. The bendix gear went up and stayed up like it is supposed too. Now I wonder if there is some sort of issue with compression keeping the starter motor from maintaining the speed to keep the bendix gear up. Thoughts???
 
All better. I almost hate to admit it but the whole problem was caused by dirty connections. I checked the starter by itself and it worked fine. I just started working back and double checked and cleaned every connection I could find.

Thanks Jerryjerry for all the input. If nothing else I learned a lot more about boat motors and was reminded to take things one step at a time.
 
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