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Winterizing up north ?

M

Mikey N.C.

Advanced Contributor
Want some info. on how y'all do it up north.
We drain block and exhaust manifolds, remove thermostat. And four hoses, fill through termo. Housing and four hoses. New termo. Gasket then muffs with 5 gal. tank crank engine until pink comes out. Is this totally wrong , if so please explain. We don't have any problems this way. But we don't get near as cold as y'all.
 
Oh and cover the whole boat with a heating blanket so the whole thing stays warm and cozy allllll winter long.
 
And when it dips down around - 10* use a karosene heater inbetween drivers and passangers seats. Keeps the inside so nice and warm..you could camp out all winter long...
 
kghost said:
And when it dips down around - 10* use a karosene heater inbetween drivers and passangers seats. Keeps the inside so nice and warm..you could camp out all winter long...
Click to expand...
What happens when a gust of wind blows out the flame, Einstein? Any more hot tips for us? HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
 
I use a extra heavy duty shock proof light bulb.

Wind dont matter with a extra large heating blanket covering the whole boat.

Duh!

We up North use our boats year round wheter in the water or not dont ya know
 
Mikey N.C. said:
Want some info. on how y'all do it up north.
We drain block and exhaust manifolds, remove thermostat, and four hoses, fill through termo. Housing and four hoses. New termo. Gasket then muffs with 5 gal. tank crank engine until pink comes out. Is this totally wrong , if so please explain. We don't have any problems this way. But we don't get near as cold as y'all.
Click to expand...

Mickey, please take a few minutes and read my Amazon write-up. I explain why using the Camco style winterizing kit (for raw water cooled engines) is risky for the average Joe user.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp

Keep in mind that when we drain all seawater, leaving just plain ole air within the system, air will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components. Never has and never will!

Also note that the amount of rust scale that may occur during the lay-up (from NOT introducing Antifreeze) is paled by comparison to that which occurs during the normal boating season. It is a non-issue!
If you want to fill the cooling jackets with Antifreeze for that "feel-good-feeling", go ahead......., just drain it again afterwards as to avoid any potential dilution!


Many of us also Fog carbureted engines.
This is the very last procedure after having taken all other measures... fuel stabilizing, oil/filer change, seawater pump impeller removal (optional), draining down the seawater areas, etc.
Fogging can occur within 10 to 12 seconds.
My procedure is done with the seawater pump impeller removed.
With a helper holding the throttle and engine speed at approx 1,100 RPM, I begin the introduce the fogging solution "equally" into the primary throttle bores.
Key word "equally".
Keep in mind that for V engines with a dual plane intake manifold, if we miss one plane, we will have missed 50% of the cylinders. So make certain that the fogging solution equally enters both primary throttle bores.

I continue fogging as the helper cuts the ignition, yet holds the throttle position.
Once the rotating assembly has come to rest, we are finished.
Doing the above ensures that the fogging solution has NOT undergone combustion.
The 10 to 12 second dry start also ensures that residual seawater has been blown out.
In spite of anyone telling you differently, a 10 to 12 second "dry-start" (seawater pump impeller removed) will cause ZERO issues.

And NO..... you will NOT find the above procedure explained in any OEM work shop or service manual.

This requires a person who is willing to think Out-Side of the Box, so to speak.
I've done this for approx 50 years and with absolutely no issues.



For Fuel Injection engines, the typical fogging procedure is NOT used and for several reasons.
For this, a different procedure is used that involves introducing an oil-enriched fuel mixture into the fuel delivery system.
This is not actually Fogging in the conventional sense.
Unfortunately, cutting the ignition (as to avoid combustion) is of no value with this procedure.




Never use the little T handle petcock style drain plugs. They do not offer a means of probing the drain ports as to clear the ports from rust scale. Instead, use the true Marine style drain plugs (the type with removable stops) so that the ports can be probed.



 
There ya go...
The man has answered all your questions.
The number one authority on all things boats.

You and him will get along great!!
You can share all your personal beddy bye stories about how tallented you are...
 
RicardoMarine said:
Mickey, please take a few minutes and read my Amazon write-up. I explain why using the Camco style winterizing kit (for raw water cooled engines) is risky for the average Joe user.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp

Keep in mind that when we drain all seawater, leaving just plain ole air within the system, air will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components. Never has and never will!

Also note that the amount of rust scale that may occur during the lay-up (from NOT introducing Antifreeze) is paled by comparison to that which occurs during the normal boating season. It is a non-issue!
If you want to fill the cooling jackets with Antifreeze for that "feel-good-feeling", go ahead......., just drain it again afterwards as to avoid any potential dilution!


Many of us also Fog carbureted engines.
This is the very last procedure after having taken all other measures... fuel stabilizing, oil/filer change, seawater pump impeller removal (optional), draining down the seawater areas, etc.
Fogging can occur within 10 to 12 seconds.
My procedure is done with the seawater pump impeller removed.
With a helper holding the throttle and engine speed at approx 1,100 RPM, I begin the introduce the fogging solution "equally" into the primary throttle bores.
Key word "equally".
Keep in mind that for V engines with a dual plane intake manifold, if we miss one plane, we will have missed 50% of the cylinders. So make certain that the fogging solution equally enters both primary throttle bores.

I continue fogging as the helper cuts the ignition, yet holds the throttle position.
Once the rotating assembly has come to rest, we are finished.
Doing the above ensures that the fogging solution has NOT undergone combustion.
The 10 to 12 second dry start also ensures that residual seawater has been blown out.
In spite of anyone telling you differently, a 10 to 12 second "dry-start" (seawater pump impeller removed) will cause ZERO issues.

And NO..... you will NOT find the above procedure explained in any OEM work shop or service manual.

This requires a person who is willing to think Out-Side of the Box, so to speak.
I've done this for approx 50 years and with absolutely no issues.



For Fuel Injection engines, the typical fogging procedure is NOT used and for several reasons.
For this, a different procedure is used that involves introducing an oil-enriched fuel mixture into the fuel delivery system.
This is not actually Fogging in the conventional sense.
Unfortunately, cutting the ignition (as to avoid combustion) is of no value with this procedure.




Never use the little T handle petcock style drain plugs. They do not offer a means of probing the drain ports as to clear the ports from rust scale. Instead, use the true Marine style drain plugs (the type with removable stops) so that the ports can be probed.



Click to expand...

First mister wizard,
99.9% of what is discussed on this forum is outdrive related.
So no removal of impeller....

Again only generalities, no specifics.
This is a Mercruiser forum.
Speak specifics about the Merceuiser products.

And your procedure is only partially correct and so are your explanations why.
Also F Amazon to read more spew.
Worthless!
 
The answer is in the user manual that comes with the engine/drive. No need to debate if you RTFM.
Jack's light bulb is a tried and true method and is especially handy if the boat is used in cold weather as you don't need to incapacitate the vessel with antifreeze solution.
 
Last edited:
99.9% of what is discussed on this forum is outdrive related.
So no removal of impeller....
Click to expand...

Most anyone who is able to perform winterizing will also be able to remove a Mercruiser stern drive seawater pump impeller for the lay-up duration. By doing so, you will also extend the life of the impeller.


.
 
100% wrong,
No not anyone. In fact 99.99999% wont and dont.

AGAIN SHOWS HOW LITTLE YOU KNOW OR UNDERSTAND ABOUT THE PRODUCT.
Generalities and no product specifics. As always
 
FYI,

I could and probably have done a write up of exactly how to winterize a carbed mercruiser here. Quick, easy and 100% trust worthy.

But based on the "expertise" being displayed here I will not.


Do it your way, if it works why change.
If it takes a lot of time and possibly overkill so be it if it makes you warm and fuzzy...
 
Mikey N.C. said:
Want some info. on how y'all do it up north.
We drain block and exhaust manifolds, remove thermostat. And four hoses, fill through termo. Housing and four hoses. New termo. Gasket then muffs with 5 gal. tank crank engine until pink comes out. Is this totally wrong , if so please explain. We don't have any problems this way. But we don't get near as cold as y'all.
Click to expand...
I do not use the method you described. How do you know the t-stat is fully open when you introduce the pink stuff using muffs & a bucket? You may get away with your method down there, but north where temps cann hit -20 or lower winterizing an engine the wrong way will guarantee a cracked block & manifolds. And using pink antifreeze, muffs & a bucket up here will drain your bank account come spring.
 
kghost said:
FYI,

I could and probably have done a write up of exactly how to winterize a carbed mercruiser here. Quick, easy and 100% trust worthy.

But based on the "expertise" being displayed here I will not.


Do it your way, if it works why change.
If it takes a lot of time and possibly overkill so be it if it makes you warm and fuzzy...
Click to expand...
Genius, what is the purpose of an overstroke switch on an OMC Cobra shift system? How difficult is an impeller change on a Cobra?

Now I've pissed in your corn flakes again.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Most anyone who is able to perform winterizing will also be able to remove a Mercruiser stern drive seawater pump impeller for the lay-up duration. By doing so, you will also extend the life of the impeller.


.
Click to expand...

I never do this.

Mercruiser/Mercury new service intervals: Pressure pump like in the Alpha 1 out drive, used in salt water, new water pump every year. Fresh water, every other year.

Volume pump like in the Alpha Gen 2:Salt water use, every other year. Same in fresh.

The pumps need to be changed, not removed and reinstalled.
 
whiteside said:
They shove it up kghost's buttcrack.
Click to expand...
You are a complete massengill award winner (yes go figure it out) why the moderator doesn't kick you and your a$$hole comments off is beyond me. Really funny absolutely no technical merit to your limp dick posts .
 
Mikey N.C. said:
Busting your ass, cause you said inner cable could be removed from aft , with support tube.
And didn't have to be ✂
Click to expand...
Chris gives the most technically competent posts I have ever seen... unlike you. great troubleshooting logic... again unlike you.
 
Dieter said:
You are a complete massengill award winner (yes go figure it out) why the moderator doesn't kick you and your a$$hole comments off is beyond me. Really funny absolutely no technical merit to your limp dick posts .
Click to expand...
You are the south facing end of a horse pointed north. Any questions?
 
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