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Questions opinions Alpha 1/ Merc 238 V8

braol911

Member
Hello All!

I found a good "deal" on a boat...(that's sort of like "hold my beer and watch this")...

1977 Century 180 Raven. Alpha One with a Mercuriser 238 (GM350).

Boat is I excellent cosmetic condition and has been stored indoors. It was winterized last fall...new trailer...new bimini...excellent upholstry... So I go to look at it "$2500 obo." We get it in the water and it won't trim down. When you push the trim button the voltmeter drops, but nothing happens (doesn't go up because it is all the way up already). So we pull it out and I got a set of muffs. I figure that if it starts and shifts with the muffs on we're in business. Key doesn't do anything. When I jump the lugs on the starter it spins but doesn't engage the engine. The owner is like "I'm so embarassed. It worked fine in October when we had it winterized. I've been trying to sell this thing...how about $1000 takes it..." I balked and walked away.

First of all, I figure...worst case scenario...the trailer is worth $4-500. I could sell the motor and drive for $500...it's worth $1000 in parts. If I fix the starter and sort out the power trim pump I could be on the water for around, maybe $500 or so. If it really goes like the seller says (and the marina verifys they winterized it) it should be good to go. I just about did the deal when I say a separate, wired, on/off switch...the seller said that this is "a neutral switch, just in case..." This tells me maybe they've had shifter cable trouble in the past. Maybe it's a sign of other trouble.

What would you do? I'm an aircraft mechanic and the trim pump looks like a breeze...it's just a 2-way hydro pump with some solenoids. The starter spins, it probably just has a sticky Bendix that needs the "hammer treatment." The old Chevy 350 in there should be reliable...right?

If the shifter is bunk then I forsee the summer boating season come to a quick end. It's not like some marina is going to "squeeze me in" and have the work done in a week. I don't mind the expense, even if I just go for the whole bellows, gimbal, shift cable job. Again, opinions from the experts on this? Should I just forget about it? I see a few 4 and 6 cylinder boats around here for $3-4000...but I just love those old V8's....
 
"squeeze me in" and have the work done in a week and your located where?
used to fly with my friend`s yak52 , for the trim make sure the main power leads are clean and connected. May have a corroded 90A fuse link, If you do get the pump running and it still wont lower ,reverse the hose connection at the pump. Use the higher up pressure to lower the drive and then re reverse the hoses again.
Bendix drives dont usually stick unless they got wet at some point. start by removing and checking/testing the starter. Worst case the starter will work properly and it is the flywheel teeth that are missing.
 
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Hello All!

I found a good "deal" on a boat...(that's sort of like "hold my beer and watch this")...

1977 Century 180 Raven. Alpha One with a Mercuriser 238 (GM350).

Boat is I excellent cosmetic condition and has been stored indoors. It was winterized last fall...new trailer...new bimini...excellent upholstry... So I go to look at it "$2500 obo." We get it in the water and it won't trim down. When you push the trim button the voltmeter drops, but nothing happens (doesn't go up because it is all the way up already). So we pull it out and I got a set of muffs. I figure that if it starts and shifts with the muffs on we're in business. Key doesn't do anything. When I jump the lugs on the starter it spins but doesn't engage the engine. The owner is like "I'm so embarassed. It worked fine in October when we had it winterized. I've been trying to sell this thing...how about $1000 takes it..." I balked and walked away.

First of all, I figure...worst case scenario...the trailer is worth $4-500. I could sell the motor and drive for $500...it's worth $1000 in parts. If I fix the starter and sort out the power trim pump I could be on the water for around, maybe $500 or so. If it really goes like the seller says (and the marina verifys they winterized it) it should be good to go. I just about did the deal when I say a separate, wired, on/off switch...the seller said that this is "a neutral switch, just in case..." This tells me maybe they've had shifter cable trouble in the past. Maybe it's a sign of other trouble.

What would you do? I'm an aircraft mechanic and the trim pump looks like a breeze...it's just a 2-way hydro pump with some solenoids. The starter spins, it probably just has a sticky Bendix that needs the "hammer treatment."
If the starter motor is the old Bendix style, I would replace that right off the bat.
I would replace it with one of today's HTGR/PMGR starter motors.
Merc typically used the 168 tooth flywheel ring gear, of which means that the starter motor would be one with the staggered bolt pattern.

The old Chevy 350 in there should be reliable...right?
If good, yes!
I would suggest performing a cylinder pressure test prior.

If the shifter is bunk then I forsee the summer boating season come to a quick end. It's not like some marina is going to "squeeze me in" and have the work done in a week. I don't mind the expense, even if I just go for the whole bellows, gimbal, shift cable job. Again, opinions from the experts on this? Should I just forget about it? I see a few 4 and 6 cylinder boats around here for $3-4000...but I just love those old V8's....

Most often we are better off purchasing a boat that is capable of passing a Marine Survey and a successful Sea Trial.
In the long run, you will spend less!
On the other hand, if you enjoy a project and have a budget for one, then go for it!
 
I should have said Mercruiser 228 engine.

Funny thing is that I'm more worried about the owner's "neutral switch" thingy. I'm sure I could get the boat to run and the trim to work. I've owned several 30'+ sailboats over the years and I've replaced fuel tanks, done gauge installation and fuse panels, fiberglass work, diesel engine tear-down. All my boats were straight drive boats with transmissions and the shift rod easily accessible. I've never heard of someone wiring up a neutral switch "just in case" before. They must have had trouble getting the boat out of gear in the past. A switch would kill the motor though...not a good option for shifting.
 
"squeeze me in" and have the work done in a week and your located where?

I meant that I know there is no way I would be able to get any work done in a timely manner on a boat this time of year. I was tempted to take a chance on the boat for the $1000 deal the owner offered and just haul it directly to my local marina, but I know it could be weeks before I was on the water and the ol' wife might not take a keen shine to that idea...
 
First confirm Alpha 1.

Alpha 1 did not exist in 1977.

If it is Alpha 1 then this boat has been repowered.

If not then you will be taking chances on outdrive repair parts for a drive that old not to mention qualified people to work on it.

The engine is what it is...

Also trim pumo, trim switches, if you have a amp meter in dash( bad idea) should be removed, rewired at alternator and volt meter used. If u have amp meter.

Also shift bracket with reverse lock out will need to be disabled if a newe pump is required. Newer trip pumps have reverse lockbout built into valve body..

May be other issuse as well
Old point ignition etc....
 
See, that's why I turned to this forum. It is an Alpha 1, Gen 2 drive...which means that the boat was repowered at some point. Thanks for the input...this might be one deal that I'm glad I walked away from.
 
If the drive and transom assembly is actually Gen Ii
Then thats a very good thing!!

All current technology.

As I said, engine is easy...sm block chevy,
Millions of em around.....
 
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