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Boat Starts and runs well on muffs in driveway, but doesn't start on ramp. PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST!

MK316

New member
I should start by mentioning that I'm 20 years old, and that this was my first boat purchase. I'm not useless, but I don't exactly have an extensive working knowledge of mechanics. I do my own oil changes, brake changes, stereo change things like that, but I'm far from an expert. I recently purchased a 1973 MonArk Marauder with a Mercruiser 3.0 140HP i/o on the back. When I purchased the boat, the guy told me it hadn't been out since last spring, but that he had winterized it, and that it ran. I even watched it run in his driveway when I bought it. It started up, went into forward and reverse, and that was that. I now know I should definitely see any boat I buy on the water before I buy it. This being said, the boat did run in his driveway on the hose, and it went into gear just fine, the biggest issue being that the motor idled really high, and ran rough. Like really hard surging while it ran. I had purchased it on a Friday, and that Saturday decided to get it out on the water and see what how it fared. After all, it ran and was ready to go as far as I knew. Upon getting a new battery, filling with gas, and performing a test run in the driveway on the muffs before we (my buddy and I) left, we got to the lake only to find that the boat wouldn't start once it was in the water on the ramp. We pulled the boat back home, and thought that maybe the reason it was running so rough was a dirty carb. So we took the top half of the carb off, sprayed it with cleaner, popped it back on, and then we couldn't get it to work at all. Luckily, my girlfriend's father is a talented mechanic and decided to help me with my boat. Upon hearing it, he told me it needed a timing adjustment bad, and when he saw that there were two fuel filters on the in-line gas line, decided that the tank needed cleaned too. Fast forward a week or two, and the timing, points, and distributor, have been adjusted. The fuel tank has been cleaned and lined, the spark plugs replaced, and a complete carburetor overhaul done. Now the boat runs and starts like a dream on the muffs, and as of Saturday 5/25, the boat was ready to rock (as far as I knew). Memorial Day my girlfriend and I decided to try a test again, and after all that work, upon pulling it out to the lake.....the same problem. Still won't start on the ramp. We tried it in the water, and then tried pulling it out of the water and it still wouldn't start. I watched a video of someone running their motor (Mercrusier 3.0 140HP) on the muffs on youtube, and noticed that their boat shoots out more water and at a higher pressure than mine does. I knew the guy before me did an impeller change, but it had been at least a year since that was done. I'm currently waiting on some parts in the mail for the water pump/impeller change, but I've got the unit off, and everything is going smoothly thus far, but I'll have to see what happens once I get the water pump back on.

A few other things worth mentioning. 1. The boat has good fuel, compression, spark and a clean, freshly overhauled carburetor. Compression (in neutral) was between 110-120 lbs in all 4 cylinders. 2. All new spark plugs, and the timing and condenser points have all been set according to the manual. The fuel tank has been cleaned and lined, along with new fuel lines. 3. It has an electric fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. 4. This boat starts and runs INSTANTLY in the driveway, and revs well in neutral and in forward and reverse. 5. This boat does NOT overheat in the driveway. Even running for 30+ minutes, there is no overheating issue.

A little more explanation on the last test we did.....We weren't exactly planing to go out, but found ourselves having better weather on Memorial Day than we expected (lots of rain in KS around then), and we had off work, so we gave it a shot. Unfortunately, this means my battery didn't have very long to charge. It was only on the charger for around an hour, and we didn't hook up the battery until we got to the lake. When we got it to the ramp I made a few mistakes. 1. I forgot to put my plug in prior to backing the trailer in. *I realized what I did right away and we pulled it out, let it drain and put the plug in before getting back on the ramp.* When it was on the ramp and in the water, it had a slow crank, but it wouldn't turn over. Looking back on this now, I think this may have been because of a nearly dead battery. At the time however, I thought that maybe I had it in too deep, and that there was too much resistance for the boat to start up. The boat was only in deep enough to cover the water intake holes on the lower unit. I pulled the boat out a bit so that the water intake holes were only partially submerged, and still nothing. So we decided to pull it out and see if it would start out of the water...no luck there either. After getting it home, getting some rest, and putting it on the hose the next day with a charged battery, it started right up again. A video from Dangar Marine taught me that lower unit water pumps aren't self-priming, and that just submerging the water intake vents isn't enough for the pump to begin pumping water. So, my current explanation involves two things:

1. My battery was very weak/too weak. I think this would explain the slow crank in the water, and also explain why it didn't want to start out of the water on the ramp either.

2. I didn't have the lower unit submerged enough on the ramp. My explanation (correct me if I'm wrong) is that when the hose is hooked up to the muffs, that water is being *forced* through the unit well enough to cool properly without any issue, but the lack of submersion depth on the ramp kept the lower unit pump from sucking water through the unit. Paired with a weak battery, it didn't want to start.

Any advice would be helpful. I want to mention that I am 100% certain its got a clean carb, its getting fuel and good spark, as those are really the only suggestions that I can find thus far on the internet. I've also seen grounding issue suggestions? We did voltage tests and had the alternator tested, everything appeared to be in working order there too. I'm hoping that my issue stems from the battery and that once I get my new water pump/impeller on things will work out with a charged battery and with everything submerged on the ramp as it should be. Hopefully that all makes sense. I just want my boat to run as well in the water as it does in my driveway.

Thanks!
 
1. Water flow has nothing to do with engine starting.
2. compression numbers (even though all similar) are low. A typical engine should be around 150 psi nominal.

It starts in driveway.

Will it start on boat ramp before backing it into water?

Is ramp steep or more or less flat (slow slope)?

If it doesnt start in water, explain your starting process.

If short cable and control cable to shift bracket is adjusted incorrectly it could be causing the interrupter switch to be made. This may not appear when on hose while on trailer.

If all that is OK you will need to test more when it wont start.
1. check for spark first.
2. Confirm fuel when accelerator lever is pushed. It should give a short squirt into carb throat.

Other than that right now we need to unerstand more
 
Will it start on boat ramp before backing it into water?

If you attempt to start this engine on the ramp before backing into the water, you may risk damaging your seawater pump impeller.
If you do this, make sure that you just hear it fire up, and then immediately shut the engine off!

.
 
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I hope you didn’t pay much for a nearly 40 year old boat. Not to beat you up but your expectations of it being trouble free are a little bit high. I’m going to guess that the non alcohol resistant rubber hoses that supply fuel are no good. You need to replace all that get new filters on there and probably clean out the carburetor. Also count on all new tune up parts and water pump impeller. Even though it was cheap you still have to put in a certain amount every year for these basic maintenance items.
 
1. Water flow has nothing to do with engine starting.
2. compression numbers (even though all similar) are low. A typical engine should be around 150 psi nominal.

It starts in driveway.

Will it start on boat ramp before backing it into water?

Is ramp steep or more or less flat (slow slope)?

If it doesnt start in water, explain your starting process.

If short cable and control cable to shift bracket is adjusted incorrectly it could be causing the interrupter switch to be made. This may not appear when on hose while on trailer.

If all that is OK you will need to test more when it wont start.
1. check for spark first.
2. Confirm fuel when accelerator lever is pushed. It should give a short squirt into carb throat.

Other than that right now we need to unerstand more

For starters, thank you for the helpful suggestions and insight.

To answer a few questions. 1. After cranking on it probably 10 minutes with the boat in the water on the ramp (this was the last time I tested it) , I decided to pull it out of the water on the ramp to start it. It still would not start. I attributed this to nearly dead battery that I had just cranked on, on and off for the last 10 minutes. 2. When I move my throttle forward or backwards, fuel IS being squirted into the carburetor, so I believe the throttle cables connected correctly. 3. The ramp I was on was certainly not flat, but not exceptionally steep. Not steep enough to bring on the thought, "This ramp is really steep". 4. My starting process looked something like this the last time I tested the boat. The first thing I did when I got to the ramp was hook up my battery. Second, put in the plug (learned from my stupidity). Third, I backed the boat into the water (enough to submerge the water intake vents). Then I ran my bilge blower for a couple minutes. Then I put in my key, and turned it to 'run', not 'start', so that my electric fuel pump was running and pumping fuel. Then after 30 seconds of my fuel pump running, without 'priming' or moving my accelerator forward to pump fuel through the carburetor (I didn't want to flood it if I don't need to) I turned the key to start the engine. At the time, all I got was a slow crank. So, I pumped my accelerator a couple times to squirt some fuel in the carburetor and tried again. Still a slow crank, an attempt to turn over, but nothing. Usually, if the boat has sat a couple days in the driveway and doesn't want to cold start right away after I prime it, I push the button on my accelerator to allow me to adjust the throttle in neutral and give it a little more gas as I crank it and it starts/fires right up. When I tried this on the ramp, it was again, a slow crank, and probably the fifth attempt with a slow crank got a brief start that lasted maybe 3 seconds but died right away. A few more failed attempts later and I pulled it out of the water and tried to start it dry with no luck.

A few more questions of my own:
1. I said my compression was between 110-120 lbs, but most of them were closer to 120. Lowest was at 115 or so, but a compression gauge in better condition than the one I used might have yielded different results. When I tested my compression, I did so with the boat in neutral. When I consulted the manual after the fact, it said that I should test it in gear. Would this make any impact on the readings I got?

2. Even if compression is low (the boat is 46 years old), is it low enough to be the cause for failure?

3. I've read that perhaps my carburetor float is not working as it should when on an incline? My parts for my lower unit water pump/impeller are in my mailbox, so they should be installed this evening. I plan to pull the boat to a road in town with a bit of an incline and see if it will start briefly (start up and then immediately off) to test this. Is it worth my time? I live about 45 minutes away from the nearest lake, which isn't terribly far, but if I can avoid driving an hour and a half to spend 15 minutes on a ramp I will.

4. I've mentioned several times that I think the weak battery was most of the culprit of my last failed attempt. Is that totally off base? \

Again, thank you for all the helpful insight!
 
Compression test needs to be done in neutral.....take a marker and black out the 'in gear' BS in your manual....

A weak battery could be a significant contributor to your issue....as could a bad battery cable. Assuming the carb work was done well, I'd suggest concentrating on the spark side of things. a test light at the coil would be a good starting point......without a good connection thru the ignition switch, to the coil, a good spark will be hard to produce...

BTW, your electric fuel pump appears to wired incorrectly - it should NOT run constantly with the key ON and the engine not running....
 
I will add,

The "button" to allow throttle control without shifting is there for COLD STARTING.

Push button, put in throttle controll, pump two to three times
Leave in ~10:00 position and turn key,
Once started asjust throttle to run engine at ~1500 RPM for about 30-60 seconds then back it down to 1000 rpm for another 30-60 seconds before putting it back to neutral postion.

This is how to start a cold carbed engine
 
Compression test needs to be done in neutral.....take a marker and black out the 'in gear' BS in your manual....

A weak battery could be a significant contributor to your issue....as could a bad battery cable. Assuming the carb work was done well, I'd suggest concentrating on the spark side of things. a test light at the coil would be a good starting point......without a good connection thru the ignition switch, to the coil, a good spark will be hard to produce...

BTW, your electric fuel pump appears to wired incorrectly - it should NOT run constantly with the key ON and the engine not running....


I have no idea if the pump is wired incorrectly or not. The pump does not run non-stop with the key on. The pump runs for maybe a minute or so, and then stops after that, but it doesn't continuously run when the engine is not running. I suppose I forgot to mention that there was a measured voltage loss in the main battery cables, so I replaced those. I am going to go for a test run tonight after all. With any luck, I won't have to be back on this thread with more of the same issues.......the starting advice is great! I had kinda guessed that the neutral throttle control was for a cold start, but those actual instructions make a lot of sense. It reminds me of starting a riding mower in a way. Thank you again for your knowledge! Updates will follow test!
 
FYI,
An electric fuel pump should not have any power to it until 5+ lbs of oil pressure is present.

Your pump "stops" because it has reached pressure set point.
That does not mean that power is off.

If engine stops for some reason and lets say fhere is spark portential or even a small fire, and worse case a fuel line leak between pump and carb, the fuel pump will still pump fuel if key is on.

It aint suposed to be able to do dat!
 
FYI,
An electric fuel pump should not have any power to it until 5+ lbs of oil pressure is present.

Your pump "stops" because it has reached pressure set point.
That does not mean that power is off.

If engine stops for some reason and lets say fhere is spark portential or even a small fire, and worse case a fuel line leak between pump and carb, the fuel pump will still pump fuel if key is on.

It aint suposed to be able to do dat!


Update: Lightning and lack of daylight kept us off the water yesterday, hopeful for today and if not, tomorrow or Saturday. If in the case of my fuel pump, "it aint supposed to be able to do dat!", I imagine that would mean there's a wiring issue? Lacking a relay to tell it when and when not to receive power? Is that an issue needing immediate attention?
 
There is suposed to be a oil pressure switch at oil pressure sender location.
So as you crank over engine, oil pressure increases and swith closes then turns on fuel pump.
if engine stalls, shuts down for what ever reason, when pressure drops below switch set point, swith opens and no power to pump.

Coast guadd approved design.
 
You can also 'feed' the pump while cranking.....or, another option is to add a 'prime' switch, up at the helm....in addition to the pressure switch....
 
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