Logo
FULL SITE MENU

2000 Johnson No Spark in #2 cylinder after warm. Power pack, Spark Plugs already replaced.

twilly1127

twilly1127

Member
I have a issue with my 2001 Johnson Ocean Pro 200HP Model J200VXSIF . Engine has good compression, starts and sounds like a champ in drive way but when the engine is warm now. I have NO fire on one cylinder. #2 port side middle. If i swap the plug wire from #1 or 3, into #2 (the one thats not firing) then #2 will fire and the other one will not... tells me the ignition coil pack is good for that cylinder since it fires immediately if i swap plug wires.

The issue appears to be following the wire off the power pack to ignition coil... But it seems i only lose spark after the engine is warm.
I have put new plugs in, and replaced the power pack this past weekend with a replacement from CDI.
Cleaned off the ignition coil and plug wires, checked all wire plugs / harness for corrosion and everything looks good.

Fired it up in drive way and she sounded great. all 6 are firing, sounded strong, no back fire, no misfire or stall. let it run 10 min at 900-1100 rpm no issue. Dropped in water, Test drive fail . NO FIRE at all ........on #2 port side same cylinder as before!!!! #poundsDesk.

still have this same issue with a new power pack!! Last 2 weeks it has been a hit or miss and a intermittent issue.. I drove 20 miles no issue, anchor for a while, hour or two later go to leave and it's missing. I would turn off and back on many times and eventually it would fire and run good.
Currently after warm #2 will not produce spark... (I did not have to remove the fly wheel to change the power pack) I have 14 volts running, so the stator should be good? the magnets are not lose. I have no idea what to change next. Timer base? it runs great initially its only after warm from what it seems and i know a faulty power pack when warm can produce same symptoms. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I believe a ignition coil either works or it don't... i am wondering if its not getting enough voltage / energy from #2 off the power pack to fire the coil. Since it's only a 30$ part i am going to replace but do not want to throw money away and considering when i move plug wires it works, i don't think that is the victim here. I have read the rectifier, trigger switch, shift switch, ignition coil, timer base, power pack,stator, plugs could all be a part of this same issue. I don't mind investing some money to get this work horse going again but i don't want to throw another part until i get some input.
I have downloaded the CDI troubleshooting book and plan to do some OHM / volt tests and go from there.

Wondering if anyone else experienced something like this the other post i read the dude had a bad connection from his ignition coil to cylinder plug.
If i take this some where and they don't sea trial it then every thing looks and appears FINE... It makes no sense. when all 6 hit the motor runs like a champ. Has to be a silly issue..... PLEASE HELP! Thank you
 
Last edited:
The stator under the flywheel can be checked visually for a meltdown. Look closely at it. If there is any cracks and/or a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack's capacitor. Should this condition exist, (dripping/meltdown) replace the stator.

Stators in this condition may function normally when cold (perfect ignition)... BUT... as they heat up, especially after running awhile, then shut down for a short time (fishing, whatever), water drains out of the powerhead, the heat rises under the hood to really cook that stator, and this heat affects the stator in such a manner whereas the voltage drop results in weak, erratic and eventually no ignition.

Let us know what you find.
 
Alright so i have a update but still have the same issue. Going to buy a fly wheel puller and really check the stator / timer base but from a quick visual inspection with fly wheel on, The timer base & stator both look good. It almost looks like someone replaced the stator in the last 5 years or so but i need to remove fly wheel to see things better.
-since replacement of power pack ignition is spontaneous. Compression test is around 100.
Hooked up in my drive way with muffs, ran for 10-15min at 1k RPM. Motor sounds STRONG, no issues, all cylinders fire.
Checked for erratic spark at night time, no visible spark.
fired up again (1 hour later) let idle for 5 min, all cylinders sparking, engine running solid no issues at all.

fired up the next day before launch, engine sounds stronger than ever. smooth running, high idle / choke is working as designed and hitting on all 6.

As soon as i drop the boat in the water, and start it... before even putting in gear or moving from the ramp - the issue re appears. No spark on port side middle cylinder, turned off and back on once or twice and spark was there. Checked all other plug wires and they were sparking. (motor did not sound the same as it did running in drive way) Seems as soon as it hits the water it falls on its face.
It almost feels like a strike from god at this point. I have no idea what would even cause this. The cylinder is not blown etc, the engine has been acting up like this for the past week /2. turning off and back on and it will run strong. At this point i am not running the boat. What is the next step to replace here? Timer base? the timer base was "hot / warmed up" prior to launch and ran fine, literally as soon as i hit the water this appears. Going to buy a fly wheel puller next and most likely replace the timer base..
 
Port side middle cylinder would be #4 cylinder. Cylinders are numbered as follows:

2.....1
4.....3
6.....5

The only new issue that arrives by having the engine in the water is exhaust back pressure... and this causes a drop in rpm.

I cannot find a mention if this #4 cylinder drops the ignition "only" at idle... OR... if when it does not fire, this holds true throughout the rpm range... OR does #4 cut back in and fire at the higher rpms?

You mention turning the key OFF then back to the START, then of course to the ON position... and that this act results in having #4 (all 6 cylinders) firing once again. You don't say anything about how long all 6 cylinders remain firing before #4 drops out again... However I will assume that #4 eventually drops out again at some point and going thru the OFF/ON again routine restores power to #4 cylinder.

This action with the ignition switch... key OFF, then back ON does just one thing... it grounds out the powerpack kill circuit (OFF), then re-energizes the powerpack (ON). This leads me into another line of thought, a problem I've encountered many times... BUT... I've never encountered it whereas it would cause a problem with just one cylinder, especially the same cylinder "always". However... read on.

The Black/Yellow wire that leads from the ignition switch to the powerpack... disconnect it from the powerpack. Key OFF. Connect a volt-meter between the wiring harness side of that Black/Yellow wire and any powerhead ground. Have the meter set so that it will read even a micro-volt Now, reading that meter closely, turn the key to the ON position (engine NOT running). If the meter registers even the smallest amount of voltage, that would indicate a flaw developing within the ignition switch that is allowing a portion of the battery voltage to drift to the "M" terminal.

Now, if the meter indicates voltage exists at that wire.... To determine whether the problem is the ignition switch or a possible conductance type short between wires within the wiring harness... re-connect that wire to the powerpack, then remove it from the ignition switch and do the same test by hooking the meter between the "M" terminal and any ground. If it proves to be the ignition switch... replace it.

Also... although the coil does fire, check its continuity between the plug boot lead and the other two connections (ground & primary)

Now... the rubber plug connection between the timer base and the powerpack... check all of the pins and sockets to make sure that none of them, especially the one that fires #4, to see if any have backed out slightly (poor connection) and also that none of the wires have actually broken off and are held in the rubber plug by pure friction resulting in a break/make contact type situation (it happens).

Of course you can take readings on all of the timer base sensors but I've never encountered one that was intermittent as you describe.
 
faztbullet said:
Does it have spark in Quikstart mode(high idle) and quits when Quikstart drops outs?
Click to expand...


Yes. (in my driveway....) Hits on all 6 in high idle and all 6 when it drops out. Everything runs great on land. in / out of gear no issue.
My buddy is telling me that the stator is malfunctioning and said that the stator feeds each cylinder / coil pack voltage on johnsons and to replace that...

I am moving forward with the above ignition switch test with meter from Joereeves recommendation, and replacement of stator (rather than timer base) Will have the part tomorrow , CDI Electronics 173-4643
Also joereeves never has seen a timer base be intermittent and it does not sound like that would be my culprit considering the timing / engine runs VERY WELL on land and has not one miss whats so ever. I have worked on inboards and other outboards and have a good understanding of how this system works but this issue is really stumping myself.
I understand the power pack was not the culprit here, although the power pack wire to the (/any) ignition coil was not feeding voltage - so i figured that had to be the problem.

Either way i am not mad that i replaced it, engine starts way easier and honestly sounds better than it's ever had. My biggest issue is as soon as it hits the water it seems to fall on face, right at the ramp still on trailer. No load on engine etc. Bring it back home, hook up to muffs and she is golden. It has to be something silly. Just makes zero sense.
Engine is a 2000. My inital post i said 01 but the subject line is correct.

Will provide update tomorrow. Thank you guys.

"The only way to learn is by doing"


 
Last edited:
twilly1127 said:
My biggest issue is as soon as it hits the water it seems to fall on face, right at the ramp still on trailer. No load on engine etc. Bring it back home, hook up to muffs and she is golden. It has to be something silly. Just makes zero sense.
Click to expand...

Beware that you may "think" that the engine is running fine on the flushette... but... perhaps it is not. Do a drop test by using insulated pliers, and while running on a flushette, remove (and replace) the spark plug boot from each spark plug... one at a time. If all 6 cylinders are firing normally, you would obtain the same rpm drop on all cylinders. Do you?

Keep in mind that on the flushette, there is no back pressure... sort of a free wheeling effect.

Let us know what you find.
 
joereeves said:
Do a drop test by using insulated pliers, and while running on a flushette, remove (and replace) the spark plug boot from each spark plug... one at a time. If all 6 cylinders are firing normally, you would obtain the same rpm drop on all cylinders. Do you?

YES. I did this yesterday I put them slightly on, started engine then removed (with my bare hand)all 6 fire / produce shock. (i know, i know)
- RPM drop is about the same. Its easier to tell when the engine is reved at 1500. if i remove a spark plug boot it dies down so its 100% firing.

Keep in mind that on the flushette, there is no back pressure... sort of a free wheeling effect.

Would a bad stator malfunction related to load / back pressure possibly?
Off work in a couple of hours, stator should be delivered / installed tomorrow night.
going to test the ig switch as you described as well.

Will update later. Thank you!
Click to expand...
 
Mr. Willy, this is a fun time, enjoyed reading this. This is exactly why we are here to try and help. Your opening paragraph confuses me. So did you physically move the affected coil and spark plug wire to another cylinder? Did the problem follow? NO! Are you running it in the driveway with the cowling off? YES! Will that mean that it is getting more fresh air on the components to lower the temperature? Is your house water supply cooler than the water where you launch the boat? Nobody asked where you live. Are you running in saltwater?
To answer your question.....NO......back pressure will not affect the performance of the stator/exciter coils. Temperature will, however. We need to check the parameters of the stator and trigger output at cold and then hot temperatures. If you see a shift towards and/or close to the operational limits, we can assume that one or the other should be replaced. By reaching this limit, it may not produce the excitation into the pack that is needed to trigger spark to #4. This can easily be determined with a multimeter with DVA capability. This type of a problem can be solved with a little patience and determination as well as considering how the problem surfaced. A slight overheating event can bring on a stator, trigger, or pack issue. Final coils are pretty resistant to elevated temperatures.

ps. I had to jump into this post as I see you are getting frustrated. You have our best techs on the job here, self excluded, and this problem will be solved soon.
 
Last edited:
timguy said:
Mr. Willy, this is a fun time, enjoyed reading this.

ps. I had to jump into this post as I see you are getting frustrated. You have our best techs on the job here, self excluded, and this problem will be solved soon.
Click to expand...


Thank you Tim! haha yes this is interesting and ALL of you guys have been a great help on this adventure.I truly appreciate everyone trying to help me and taking the time to read my narrative. I owe everyone a case of beer at the very minimum.
So i just recorded a video of the motor running and showing all 6 firing. I am located in Baltimore MD! i boat the Chesapeake bay all over, (north of the bay bridge)
-Water temp is about 73 degrees give or take.
Engine was running for 15 min yesterday and the temp (via a laser) not sure about "accuracy with a harbor freight one" but the device was showing the block and all cylinders
@143-164. nothing higher.

Please check out this you tube video i added. I will try to take another one when its at the ramp, in the water "mis behaving"
you can hear the high idle / warm up functioning normal at 1:48 when i fire it back up. also all sensors / lights work on dash cluster when ignition is ON

https://youtu.be/LJrDE7-Xlr4
 
Last edited:
1) The kill wire cannot effect a single cylinder
2) Its's not the stator as it only charges capacitors in pack
3) Its either the pack or timer base....the Quickstart effects 2/4/6 in timer base. Do these tests below.
IMG_4723.JPG
IMG_4724.JPG
 
Update. Installed stator today. (already installed new power pack)
fly wheel and all magnets are in good shape, Timer Base looks to be in good shape, moves freely, no visible signs of anything out of the usual.
Compression check again today and i have 90 on 2, 4, & 6 cylinders.
Started up and ran fine! all 6 cylinders firing and they have more power than before . Soon as i start i have 13.3v idle at 1k RPM.
after about 30 seconds after the high idle , she sits there and sounds like she "is ready to rock" idle at 950-1050 RPM...Very responsive with throttle, instant response 2 stroke screaming ready to go. I Did notice a different as far as ignition and sound of running with replacement of power pack and stator. Fires right up when cold. Normal smoke, and the water pisser is shooting 2 feet. (as well as in the water...)_ Circulation of water is good & temp on IR detector showing 157 throughout entire motor. Center block 130 degrees.
No temp alarms, do not feel it's in protection mode and on land sounds ready to go...

I drive about 2 miles up the road, back into the boat ramp, (while boat is still on trailer) i fire it up and it immediately stalls, i fire it up again and its not running right. Remove the cowling cover, pull the plug from #4 cylinder and i have no spark. Had to keep re starting motor as it was missing, shaking not operating properly.
I then turn the engine off, and move the power pack cable on the ignition coil from cylinder 4 to ----> cylinder 2, as well as swapping the plug wires.
I then have spark at cylinder 4 . (IG COIL IS GOOD) but no change in RPM when putting plug on / off.
Removing and putting back on, no change in RPM whats so ever.
I turn the motor off, raise the tilt / trim so the motor is out of the water, start it briefly to test ..with same results.
Bring it home, put the ears on it with water hose and its ready to go. On / Off 3-5 times and she is ready, all 6 fire and appears nothing is wrong.
All 6 with loud , STRONG spark on all cylinders, no miss, no shaking NOTHING.

This makes little sense as to why it runs on land this way but not when it hits water...?
I have a huge 50 gallon container that i am dropping this engine into first thing tomorrow morning to see if i can some how simulate "being in the water"
Outstanding motor & its a great boat - as long as you dont try to run it in the water.
Runs really good on land!!!! :) Anyone in the Baltimore Area who could help i have cash in hand. At a total loss right now and don't want to give up on my Johnson

Model J200VXSIF, 09/2000
 
Last edited:
This sounds a bit stupid of a question but what material is your boat made of? Dah! just watched the video, strike that question. I think a timer is over 300 for that baby. Did you try the test procedure outlined by Pappy?
So what your indicating is that even when the motor is cold now, once it hits the water at the boat ramp, it misfires? That suggests a conductivity issue between the boat's hull and the motor itself. Since salt water is conductive and fresh water is not. Can I explain this effectively in theory?......not really, however, I have seen things like this before, most commonly with aluminum hulls. How about give it a try up in Loch Raven?
 
Last edited:
If the replacement pack is a CDI it could be bad even if new. Put you old pack back on if you think it might be ok.
 
Frankly what you have been describing comes across as something from Alice In Wonderland. Unfortunately I no longer do the actual wrench work... BUT... if I did, I'd like nothing better that to have that engine in front of me. We had a unspoken policy that a technician was able to diagnose any problem within a 20 minute period... and we have pretty well covered the trouble shooting topics in the above posts.

********************
However, I am doing a copy/paste of one suggestion (with a few minor changes) that I listed in post reply #4 as follows. The problems that exist with these connectors is easy to overlook if just glancing thru them.

The rubber plug connections between the timer base & powerpack, pack & coils, etc... check all of the pins and sockets to make sure that none of them, especially the one that fires #4, to see if any have backed out slightly (poor connection) and also that none of the wires have actually broken off and are held in the rubber plug by pure friction resulting in a break/make contact type situation (it happens).
********************
Also, unless I am overlooking it, I see no mention of actually replacing the timer base. I also see no mention of the timing sensors in the timer-base being read with a ohm meter. The ohm readings should be pretty well even between all of them... worth looking at.
********************
It does look like everything else was replaced except #4 spark plug but perhaps I overlooked that.

Bottom line... perhaps I'm getting to old to partake of this helping scene, however I intend to stick around for a little while longer. But I'm backing out of this one as it simply doesn't seem logical and I've exhausted my list of suggestions. However, I think I'll just drop in for a daily view in an effort to possibly learn something.
 
If we solve this thing we could win a good friend to have a beer with. Just gotta get to Baltimore. I have thought about that defective pack idea but if the symptoms are exactly the same that would be impossible. Joe mentions those pins that is a very good idea, could be a continuity issue there, check it out well. So as I asked in my last post you seem to indicate that the problem occurs now not with the change in temperature but with the change in where the boat is running? Whether it is in or out of the water?
 
Last edited:
joereeves said:
Frankly what you have been describing comes across as something from Alice In Wonderland.

Update. All connections / Pins look good. No wires have backed out.
Replaced #4 ignition coil just because it's a cheap part.... OHM test on timer base was 223 OHMS PIN left pin d to right PIN C from faztbullets image attachment.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0SWi_ArkCfSNSKLwcxw7D8L1A

Also tested the black yellow ignition wire

Put boat in water yesterday and it did the same thing no fire on #4. I take the boat to my house, leave it in the water over night,
sunday morning i go out to fire it up, idle for 5 min all 6 are firing. I take it for a brief test drive and all 6 fire, able to crank 5200 motor is screaming and sounds great. Feel like im back!!!!! but, After 10 min or so, i lose number 4. No spark at all. All other cylinders are ok.

think at this point it's beyond my repair and i'm going to be forced to drop it off somewhere. I will keep this post updated with solutions to issue.
Also giving a huge thanks to everyone who has taken time to read, help, and follow this post.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Did you do the diode test using volts? Check this when running good and again when acting up. Did you do the same with your ohms test of the trigger? The trigger/timer base test may fall outside parameters when it decides to act up. This is an electronic component of course. Many factors can create a problem that is inconstant.
 
Last edited:
Morning Guys. So with everything i have done i think the issue is close to being resolved.
I figured out when the issue happens, if i start the engine with the throttle about 25% engaged it appears to fire up with all 6. (at least yesterday..)
(boat has been left in the water for the past 4 days)
Saturday morning (post #19 should be sat morning and not sunday my mistake) i take a quick drive and she is running good, i go back 10 min later to pick up my old man and the max i could crank was 4k. Still had the miss, and it never fired / cleared up.

Sunday Morning - Took it out, running fine for 10 min or so, i stopped pulled the cowling off and number 4 was not sparking but when i begin to throttle up it seems it obtains spark jumps around a bit then fires and runs strong. (could feel it jumping / hesitating and then cranked out)
I figured at this point im going to keep going until it dies.
Some how i Cruised for 30-40 min with no issue at all beside a slight miss / sputtering trying to get into the RPM Range.
Running 4600-5k WOT all 6 firing. Changing RPM range to anything under 4200 and she seems to spit a little, i think this bad girl likes to RUN! I usually run 4k, 4400 and never run WOT for more than 2 min or so..
The most i have been able to go before the issue arose was 10 min.
Some how my boat also is faster with the power pack, stator etc. MAX Speed before was like 32-33, yesterday i was cranking 36mph with 90 gallons of fuel on board..
It was hesitant and missing, shaking between 3600-4200 but WOT she is screaming.
i could feel it drop / kick in then WOT for a while and it ran great.
If i bring back between 3800-4200 there is some sputtering and it does not want to hold the RPM. (might be a fuel issue also going on) but if a carb does not get fuel or has a issue, that would not cause me to lose "spark" on said cylinder..... It seems it will also stall out if i don't slowly shift down, and then into Neutral. At one point the clutch dog engaged pretty hard in reverse.. then later it shifted into F, N, R with no issue..
anyway we have all seen alot of weird **** go on that will stump you and things that dont make much sense.

Going to clean all of the CARBS up as i had one carb float get stuck the other day, (not my cylinder in question, the other side) removed cleaned up and put back on. Why i lose spark, intermittently is still a mystery and it seems like it must of rained holy water as there was nothing different done from 2 days when the issue would not go away..... It rained all sat night and early sunday morning,
I did notice some fuel on my carbs turning white, (while i was out running and removed the cowling) i assume that is from the ethanol or caused from the humidity and vapors and the oil when it hits the outside..... "carb icing" ? (plz see pic) ? If it was water it would be more "milky" looking i think.
Also i noticed my main harness line / engine cable line inside the big plastic hose was full of water..
I am going to test ride again today and see what happens, the only way i will truly know!!!


https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0oHtxtfilFolvTagDLTU_zrPw
Will update again later this week and let everyone know the final solution.
 
Last edited:
Okay. Good. How are you checking for spark to #4, just by pulling off the wire and see that it doesn't drop RPM? Are you actually checking spark AT THE WIRE? I watched the video and couldn't "hear" the arc on all the wire removals. You mention carb issues now/overflow/icing? This directs me to believe that it might not be a spark issue but #4 carb with an intermittent blockage. If it was my boat it would NEVER EVER have any ethanol in it. Thats just me......because I want to eliminate problems before they occur. It is illegal to put ethanol in airplanes and I feel that it is not safe in boats either. Yamaha techs tell us that it is now illegal to use ethanol in boats at anything over 10 percent. I can't blame everything on ethanol, but I dam sure see a "ton" of issues evolving from ethanol use in almost everything except our daily driver vehicles. Ethanol and moisture are a lethal combination. The debris getting into the carbs could be coming from anything "upstream". I'm simply building ideas from information as it is presented.
 
Last edited:
timguy said:
Okay. Good. How are you checking for spark to #4, just by pulling off the wire and see that it doesn't drop RPM? Are you actually checking spark AT THE WIRE?
Click to expand...

So... I spoke too soon. Took the boat out yesterday and she ran BETTER than ever. I could crank 52-5400 WOT and everything was great.
After ten min or so i wanted to slow down, (1800-2200 RPM) and just cruise for 5 min.
I then began to get back on plane and #4 no fire.
The hesitation is no longer there and its just not firing.. (other day i could feel it kick in as i began to throttle up)
I already used a timing light and when the issue happens #4 does not spark.

The past few days i have just simply been pulling the boot off to check.
Every single other one zaps me / i can feel the spark while holding the wire but, #4 has nothing.
I need spark to ignite the fuel.
No idea what is causing this issue.
I thought i had it fixed but nope.. The good thing is when i do get it fixed this motor is going to scream.

I have disconnected both temp wires, tachometer, isolated battery 1, battery 2, and ALL, restarted engine with same result.
I literally cannot figure this out. This issue is a hit or miss. It seems if i get on plane and stay, i could run 20-30 miles no issue but the moment i come off plane and attempt to get back into it, (not sure when the actual cylinder goes) but i know i lose the cylinder as the motor wont crank / get on plane running on 5 like it does with 6. After she planes out i am running 4200 on 5 cylinders, when all firing i can push it 5k no issue.

I need the OMC gods to revive this baby!!! What in the HELLLLL.
 
One last entry here due to a memory surfacing from the past.....

Throughout most of the above entries, the ongoing problem is described as being due to No Spark On #4 cylinder... but nowhere do I actually see a mention of a spark test being performed whereas a 7/16" air gap exists for the spark to be jumping across. It's rather a testing via a drop test or via a timing light.... and with the various components being tested an/or replaced, it seems impossible to me that with what has been done so far... that #4 could possibly have intermittent spark unless the Spark Demons from afar have risen to cancel out nature's law and to torment the knowledgeable. One other cause comes to mind which I'll sidestep for the moment as it is doubtful in this case... I would rather bring up the memory case I mentioned, as follows:

Back in the early 1980's... a V6 engine on a bass boat, with a normal top speed of about 78 mph... with the identical problems as related to the present one, and that is the problem of intermittently losing a cylinder, the same exact cylinder every time judging by the spark plug coloration... but not on a everyday basis. Spark was somewhat questionable at times but all components checked out completely. The fuel system was also in question due to nothing wanting to be overlooked and all of that area seemed to be perfect in every detail, however no component dismantling was performed .

Testing on the water at full throttle was needed, and needless to say, I was not too crazy about laying across the motor well of that rig, handling the engine's components at full throttle. However, Carburetor face plates off, in the water, starting & idle, shifting,whatever... all okay, and off we went at full throttle for quite some distance (ugh) before suddenly losing power as if losing spark to one cylinder.

With all the carburetor throats facing me, hanging onto the steering cable with one hand, I started jamming two fingers into the carburetor throats, acting as a manual choke... most attempts resulted in a drop of rpms (flooding), but with one carburetor, the one feeding the suspected cylinder... the rpms, power, and speed returned.

Back at the shop, dismantling the carburetor in question and inspecting carefully, a very small white bug was discovered, a bug that was buoyant, one so small to be easily overlooked, one that floated on the surface of the fuel mixture... until full throttle was hit, at which point, eventually that bug was drawn into the high speed passageway which created a efficient fuel shut off valve that shut down the related cylinder.

The above experience makes me wonder if this type problem, although perhaps not completely identical, could be raising its ugly head again with TWilly's engine. Long story I know, perhaps a waste of time, but..............!
 
Last edited:
Right on, Joe, thats the direction I'm going. Our boat owner, Mr. Willy, has not said that he has performed the trigger/timer tests completely yet, either. See post #20. AND......when you test triggers, ALWAYS TEST IMPEDANCE AND/OR VOLTAGE IN ALL.....I SAID ALL THROTTLE POSITIONS. Why? Since these units move and make wires flex and sometimes rub things, we have to be concerned if testing is not done in all throttle positions. Proper testing of this unit has to be done in this procedure. It seems to me that our symptoms develop in only certain throttle positions. Many real professional shops do not test in this manner, but replace parts until its fixed. In this case it may just be poor conductivity through a wire at only a specific position of the trigger/timer. This is my last bit of advice, and if its not taken seriously and I get a proper report, I'm "bailing out". Man built this thing, it can be fixed, but I can't be in Baltimore to do it.
 
Last edited:
faztbullet said:
It the timer base or pack...If its a CDI pack they can be bad out of package.
Click to expand...


Timer base ordered today.
Should have installed by thursday/friday.
Will update right away with results.
Thank you everyone. and like Timguy said, man built it - it can be fixed.
completing the readings / tests at different throttle positions is something i will never forget since the entire unit does move.
 
faztbullet said:
It the timer base or pack...If its a CDI pack they can be bad out of package.
Click to expand...

ok boys! We got the old Johnny screaming as she should be.
appears the issue was the timer base.....(We pray)
ran 20 miles today on and off plane with no issue! Hitting 5k rpm at 36 mph on 238 hydra sport walk around never has ran so strong.
all 6 cylinders firing & screaming.
original stator looked to be in good shape visually.
thank you so much to everyone involved within this post, you guys kept my motivation strong and help stick around to resolve. I also added a few drops of Fatima holy water from portugal that my grandmother left behind from 20 years ago on top of the engine cowl and gave her a few slaps before the final launch.
I am 26 years of age, mechanically inclined but have learned more over the course of the past 3 weeks than I would at any trade school -regarding outboard motors & feel confident to rip this thing apart again.
I did not invest in the DVA meter (sorry guysbut rest assured the parts I replaced , have made this engine more reliable for a later date and she runs stronger. Process of elimination and last part is culprit. New power pack, timer base , stator, ignition coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter , fuel water sep filter etc but JOHNNY is back! 🤙👍 🏄*♀️


my father’s has a shift shaft solution within older engines that I will be posting to help other people like us. 3$ fix lasted 8 years when the shaft hour glassed in the lower unit. Cooper tube packed with epoxy on copper pipe no need to remove power head will post full later.
 
twilly1127 said:
Timer base ordered today.

Will update right away with results.
Click to expand...


Ran the boat all weekend with no issue!!!
Everything is back to normal operation. I noticed the power coil is lose on my bran new stator, zip tie melted off?
i called CDI they said if its lose it could be getting hot. They also referenced page 215 in the troubleshooting guide which i wanted to ask everyone's opinion. I plan to put a bran new stator on and send this one back, and change both thermostats.
There is a service bulletin that advises to remove the pop up valve , disassemble and drill a 1/8 in hole through the plunger? Can anyone break this down for me. does that just mean drilling a hole behind the thermostat . Thank you everyone!

Air can become trapped in the top of the block at engine start-up when:
a) The engine is idling with a blocked or restricted thermostat
.b) The engine is started and is not accelerated beyond 1800 RPM


Solution:1. Remove the pop-off valve and disassemble it.
2. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill a hole through the plunger from the back side of the plunger as close tothe center as possible. This allows air to be vented from the top of the cooling system and helpsensure an adequate water level when the engine is run below 1800 RPM

CDI2.jpg
 

Attachments

  • CDI.jpg
    CDI.jpg
    20.1 KB · Views: 101
Last edited:
Back
Top