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mercury optimax idle issue

Mtsaz

Member
Hi I have an 07- 115hp optimax. It started this crazy idling/stalling issue just ---coincidentally after i topped the boat tank off with gasoline. So- I came home, and hooked up my little 3 gal tank- with new premium gas- same thing.

Since then, some done as routine maintenance/some to fix this- but I have changed the plugs, filters, cleaned VST/replaced the rubber parts inside it, replaced the parts on the fuel pump on the outside of the VST, had injectors cleaned, replaced thermostat and poppet- chebecked the diaphragms, replaced map sensor- replaced the reeds with chris carson reeds, checked pressures, and checked the coils---ohmed them out---all the pins etc. (there is a tsb to explaining how/what results to expect).

It seems that once I changed the reeds, it started to run better- ie doesn't stall as much but is idling rough---so I started removing the coil wires one at at time, and the bottom coil seems to make no difference plugged in or not.

I'm going to put a timing light on it- to be certain- and i also ohmed the ECM- (on the same tsb-Bulletin No. 2007-25R2 ) its online. So now- I am totally STUCK. If you see an optimax getting tossed into the grand canyon---you will know why. There are no codes, everything is in good shape- and up to specs- but it wont idle. It runs perfectly WOT.

My question is this- these are the original coils- can they still be bad if they ohm out correctly? all three plug wires are about 1000 ohms.
ALSO- has anyone tried the CDI or polaris coils? they are a little cheaper---some techs swear by the cdi- coils- but I have not heard anythign about the polaris ones---the cdi are about 100$- polaris about 80$----and I have a sneaky suspicion that cdi makes them for mercury and polaris- who i think shares some of the same parts as mercury marine. Maybe the same company- not sure.

So now- it appears the coils are working- my timing light isn't but my spark tester is----I had to wait for it to get a little darker out---.

I am just very confused and frustrated with this dumb thing.

Someone said that you can ruin the iridium spark plugs by gapping them- the second you touch the center conductor with a feeler gauge the spark plug is ruined. Is that true? That is about the only thing I can think of.
 
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Whats your fuel/air pressure reading? Does that cylinder in question have spark at idle?Have you had the air/fuel injectors serviced?
 
HI- injectors were professionally done by marine injector company----there is spark at idle- its the same on all 3 according to spark tester.
I cant find my fuel pressure tester schrader adapter. I cant check pressure until I find it- ---it was supposed to be in the case with the tester- but someone borrowed it- and well - you know how that is. I rarely ever never loan tools- and this is why.

Thank you so much for your help--i'm so frustrated with this motor----
 
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The optimax will not start or idle properly without full compressor output. Even if it drops 5 psi.
You need to check air side output. Check the hose that goes from the compressor output to the vst. A lot of times they leak. Use a soapy mixture and spray on hose fittings. Look for bubbles. Air pressure should be 90psi. I have used our shop compressor to determine output for opti issues. By feeding 90psi into the fuel system.
 
If that cylinder has spark its either a injector(air or fuel) problem, compression problem, PCM or reed broke. I would compression test 1st and if OK swap injectors fuel then air.
 
5psi will not make a difference. Can you say tracker valve? The compression in the cylinders is what drives the air pressure up during cranking.

The air compressor does not hook to the VST tank.

I am with Faztbullet, Compression test first, Then the rest. If still no change get a bore scope. The cylinder on a 3.0 ltr can spin in the engine block and cause issues. Haven't seen it happen in a 1.5 ltr. Then again it is half of a 3.0 ltr.
 
Can I check compression with car compression checker? Also- I will check pressures- but can't find my schrader adapter for my fuel tester- so someone said "use a 5$ air gauge" but when i did that- it filled up with gasoline. Is that ok to check with an air gauge?

Second- someone told me that "the second you touch the (center conductor) of the iridium plug- you ruin it"---is that true? If so how on earth do you gap the dumb thing. It makes no sense as an electrical engineer- but I'm learning that I dont know as much as I thought- and the merc manual leaves a tremendous amount of information for the imagination.

I cleaned out the VST- and because my motor had sat- it looked like it was full of cake batter. but it had run flawlessly for months and months---and when I cleaned it out- it made zero difference. I bought a new fuel pump (the high presssure one)---but I guess check the pressures first.

It seemed to stall less- once I put the carson reeds in- its possible i had a couple problems. This motor sat for about 10 yrs. My brother and i bought it new at cabelas but they put only his name on the invoice and title. We (brothers knew) but he died 3 months later. So it was in probate until early last year when I got it back. I started it and had no problems for about 40 outings. Then one day- this rough idle/stalling started. I would do one repair---test it---one more---test it---nothing changed anything. It seemed to run more powerfully after the injectors were cleaned, and after I put the carson reeds in---so maybe they needed attention- but it still idles rough.

I will go check pressures and compression and report back. I only have a tire gauge since I can't find the adapter- but word is---that is an acceptable way.
Is there any value in undoing one injector at a time? The purple ones- or red ones- on the fuel rail- obviously not the air injectors that are under the fuel rail.
Is there any value to spray soap on the hoses? If there is a leak---then that could be a problem----just like it is for natural gas- lol. Thank you all.
 
one more quick question---if I need a coil- someone said "buy the CDI coils only"---they are about 100$. I see one on amazon made by polaris- about 80$. Then there are the merc ones for like 150 and a bunch of cheapo chinese ones for 20-40$. Obviously I would get one of the first 3 and not the chinese ones--I was just curious if anyone had experience with cdi or polaris- and does cdi make the coils for polaris and mercury? Does anyone know? Thank you all
 
My compression- top- a hair over 130, (my compression gauge is broken down in 10s)--middle- a little under 140, and the bottom one just a bit under 130- maybe 129 or something. So they are all within about 10 psi of each other. The air was 82- and I need to go buy cheap air gauge to check fuel- I only have expensive ones- because I have a fuel injector pressure tester- but cannot find the adapter. So my fuel should be 72 or 92? Or thereabouts. Will have the pressures posted in an hour or less. Thanks

PS: the air compressor does not go to VST- it goes to fuel rail, and some other places with the small (garden hose colored) tubing----should I check if there are any leaks? Is that a worthwhile activity? Thank you everyone.
 
It says in the manual- page 1a-6--"when testing compression put lanyard in off position to prevent operation of direct injectors or remove fuse controlling direct and fuel injectors. I didn't do that. I just put the compression tester in- started it- let it run a second- turned it off- checked it- then repeated for cyls 2/3. Should I put the "deadman" switch off- or remove fuse? I am not sure how that will make any difference in compression readings---it will prevent the motor from starting.

Mine seems to run about the same on 2 cylinders---the top cylinder doesn't make much difference and the plugs are black- new plugs. I changed the coils around ----becuase last night the bottom one didn't make a difference when unplugged- and I moved it to the top. THe other 2 yes, it barely runs.

Even though the coil ohms out- it might be bad. There is spark- I checked, but there is a problem with that coil when I unplug it no matter which cylinder- it makes no difference on the operation of the motor- the other 2- its very obvious.

So- back to my question- should I buy a cdi or polaris- or should i just spring for the merc--what about used ones on ebay? (I guess i have a used one---that answers my question).
 
Noted
I was obviously tired last night. Sorry for giving the wrong info

being tired is no excuse- I give wrong information when I'm not tired. Its ok- I appreciate your willingness to help--thats what is important. THank you for that.

HEre are my readings:
my 4$ air gauge- air about 90, fuel about 100. Those are the pressures---and the compression is 129 to 139 +/- one or 2. My compression checker is calibrated by 10- so its hard to know exact. But they are all within specs---of being 15% of each other.

So, I am going to get that coil- and see what happens. I will have it tomorrow- and if that fails----then I am completely and totally LOST.
I have changed everything- except expensive things like compressor or ECM--and I did ohm the ECM per the TSB 2007-25R2
I also checked all three coils per those instructions. So ----

I have changed the filters, plugs, rebuilt the exterior to VST fuel pump, cleaned out VST and changed the rubber christmas tree looking part (the vst had a gooey like cake batter stuff in the bottom- about 2"--i assume old gasoline) I had the injectors cleaned, changed poppet, t-stat, reeds, map sensor.

My plugs are black and nasty even though they are new- and not equal---so I am suspicious of these coils --even though they have spark.

When all this started, I took it to a mercury place that only repairs newer mercs- no sales, no boat sales, --and they checked it and said "its probalby a maintenance item- filters.plugs etc"---so I did all that- and nothing. I even eliminated the gasoline- nothing.

So- I am now completely frustrated- and hoping that there is a clue in the fact that one of the coils makes no difference if plugged in or not- and matters not where its located. Ironically- it checks out per the TSB- and has spark- but the other 2 coils are noticeable when unplugged regardless of where they are. My spark tester tested them all equally and the DVM readings were all very similar.

Should I check for leaks in the compressor hoses?
 
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When doing the compression test you need to have the key shut off and jump out the starter.

An Optimax outboard opens the direct injectors(air injectors) while cranking to boost the air pressure in the air rails for faster starts.

The fuel pressure should be 10 PSI higher than the air pressure.

You gap an Iridium plug (any plug)by bending the ground strap, not by wedging your gap tool between the electrode and ground strap.

I would purchase the oem coil.

" It makes no sense as an electrical engineer" As an electrical engineer, you know the value of good parts. Think about all the time you have spent working on this engine. The extra $50 for the oem coil should be a drop in the bucket.
 
BTW, Run your serial number and see if it falls in the TSB that suggests that all coils be changed because of possible damage to the ECM.


Not to sound totally naive- because i am not- only 95%---but where do I run the serial #? I can give it here----1b473256
Also- i bought a cheapo chinese coil- just for troubleshooting- If it made a difference I will buy a mercury coil- but the DVM measures a lot of shorts from pin to pin- nothing like the mercury coils are supposed to be. People say they work- but I am very worried about plugging it in---so i was wondering if I could come and try it in your motor first.

Thanks! (Just joking of course)---
 
(the vst had a gooey like cake batter stuff in the bottom- about 2"
Was this serviced before or after injectors was cleaned as it sounds like you have injector problems not spark. If in my shop the entire fuel system would be removed,cleaned,inspected and tested if that was found in VST.
 
HI- I will explain the whole thing---because its important to know the sequence of events. I started like many other times- except this time I filled up the tank- 40 gal- it was probably down to about 10 gal so I put in about 30 gal. I got to the lake- and went thru normal routine- wife in boat, I back it in on ramp, she starts it and pulls to dock while I go park. She was having some trouble starting it- and when I got down to the dock- I jumped in and it started--but not like normal- but once it was started- we took off and at WOT- it was fine. I just assumed that it was some kind of issue with the fuel level getting low, or the bulb losing pressure- or ---I didn't know.

I get home and first thing I did was to check the plugs--gap, clean/dirty etc- and decided to replace them. I did as well as change the red fuel filter. I also read about the fuel hose lining breaking apart and getting into the system- (I had the grey mercury hose) so I changed it with a new one which was a Sierra or mercury---I dont recall but sure enough- my hose I could see the inside lining was separated from the rest of the hose. So- I thought- a filter and hose will fix this.

I ran the motor using a big tub I bought at a livestock place---and it was still running rough. So, I went to the local mercury place and bought the fuel pump kit- (the one external to the VST), the parts to rebuild the VST internally, and did that. The VST had this goo in it- about 2" deep- and it was crusty on the sides---I assume from sitting for a few years after my brother died unexpectedly very young--3 months after buying it- we bought it together but he went in and signed papers so it was in his name---so it took several years to resolve that--so this motor probably had less than 25 hours on it when I finally got it back last year about this time. I had never had a problem in the 25 or so times i took it out until that day--that I coincidently bought gasoline. The other strange thing- is that while it was in storage while his estate was in probate, I had the motor "winterized" and serviced about every 9 months- a mercury tech- would start it, check oil in lower unit, and basically just make sure it was safe to store and it didn't sit without running for years and years. So, assuming this was done PROPERLY---especially after I had ran the motor so many times- all day sometimes without any problems- I have no idea how or why that goo was in the VST. From now on, I will check it every few months (until I am confident its OK). I always run star tron ---I think the fuel preservers are all the same, but I dont mix them- I use the same one only because I dont want a chemistry experiment going on inside my gas tank.

Anyway after the filter, fuel pump, hose, and VST service- It still ran rough. I checked the coils- both with spark tester and with ohm meter - and by disconnecting one at a time while it was running- and all 3 were good. I sent the injectors in for cleaning/service to a marine injector place. Got the injectors back and when I hit the key, it roared to life--like in the old days- but then started the rough idling and stalling a minute or so later.

I changed the poppet and t-stat- cleaned out the water strainer which had a bunch of grass in it- and checked the pressures. They were not exactly 10 psi different but were like 13-14 psi different. I did that because I was servicing the motor- and had never done those things- so did them just so I could check them off the list but also didn't really know what else to do at this point.

I got a 3 gal tank from amazon- and put new premium gasoline in it- and tried that- same thing.
I changed reeds- and once again- it roared to life- but then started the idling/stalling issue. The reeds were perfect but I changed them anyway, and the injectors---those 2 things did make it run better but did not fix it. Chris Carson- he told me, "if you are going to check the reeds, just change them, then you dont have to be worried about them and they are too much work to check---only to have to change them later"---and he was right---its a giant hassle to get to them mostly because of the oil tank. I am glad I took his advice.

So, now- assuming the ECM is good, and there isn't some strange hose or wire problem somewhere, I am back to square one. I started with the coils----but this time around- the bottom coil now didn't seem to make any difference hooked up or not- the other 2 yes, it would barely run if one of the other 2 were disconnected- Now I know why---even though that bottom coil had the same amount of spark (my spark tester is one of those ones you can adjust the spark gap- and I could make the gap about 3/4 inch--and that was where all 3 would cease to make the arc---also, according to the mercury TSB Bulletin No. 2007-25R2- all the measurements with ohm meter were perfect on all 3 coils. The reason why it would barely run with one of the other 2 coils unplugged is it was running on 1 cylinder.

I got another coil- and replaced the one that seemed to have little/no impact if it were connected or not- and that fixed it. Obviously that coil is breaking down somewhere and it only fails under load and just enough to cause problems, but not enough to test bad. If I gave you this coil- and you tested for spark, and measured the spark, checked with DVM, and also inspected it visually you would think it was a new coil.

So, I ordered a new coil- and will most likely buy 2 more- and change them all.

These new coils with semiconductors buried in epoxy break down and start failing causing very strange problems. Its a very high voltage spark, with very short firing time- coupled with heat and vibration---it makes perfect sense to me now.

My outboard ran perfectly wot- full RPM, full speed, but it didn't idle right and it kept stalling (on idle only). Which means that it was just good enough to run, but not good enough to run perfectly.

So be warned- if you have some very strange - unexplainable problem and you have checked everything else- I would get a known good coil and one by one try it in each position. Spark testing, DVM testing, all are a waste of time. I see others with these strange- seemingly unsolvable idle/starting problems, "I have been to mechanic many times, and they cannot figure it out"- "I am at a complete loss"--just like I was- and I wonder how many of them might be an intermittent coil or coils.

The other thing---I found out that many racers use these exact same coils--GM LS1 LS2, LS7 engines----"1300 HP supra"--I had a supra once, and I didn't know it could be pushed to 1300 hp- but whatever- they use these same coils. I found out cross referencing the part number, and then by asking these race parts places or the race car builders- and that many of them KNOW that the coils they use are made in the same factory as the merc labeled coils and -- they have the same engraved numbers. They are about 1/2 the price---also, these race car people say "we have never had a complaint or problem with (our) coils ever"-----so before i spend 130$ each for 3 or 6 of the mercury coils----

Obviously Mercury does not want this information out---if you doubt me, I can give you names and # of people who are highly respected in the race car world- who build or drive these cars--(or sell parts) and they will tell you exactly what I am saying. Also many ATV and snowmobiles use these same coils. Polaris for one, Sea Doo for another. I dont know if all their machines ---I dont know anything but I know that some of them use these same coils. But those (ATV/snow machine) coils are about the same price as mercury coils.

I wouldn't use the 25$ chinese ones- but the mercury ones are 130$ and made in china too. If I can get a set for 50-60$ each, from a source that supplies 1000+ horse power race cars and they stand behind them----why not? Mercury (who I called about this) and dealers---does absolutely NOTHING, and the mercury parts place will not exchange or return---if you were to buy one that was DOA. These car people are very friendly and helpful--and they stand behind their products. Its a huge difference- pay 1/2 the price, get the exact same thing, and they stand behind it?

If you want one in a mercury box---i understand and wont be critical of that decision. But if you want one in a different box, but it has the same engravings and is 1/2 the price- AND they stand behind them? Please dont be critical of me. I have no issues whatsoever with the local independent mercury repair place- except that they are very backlogged, and mercury charges very high prices for some of these parts.

Thank you so much to everyone who helped me. I was very stuck--and very frustrated--and honestly did not know what to do. I had this motor checked on the mercury tester (for 150$)--and there were no codes, no failed test, no nothing. I was told that "we can fix it- but I can't even begin to tell you how much it will cost until we get into it"----and while I understand that- I was not prepared to write a blank check until I had at least done the basics that I was able to do---AND---they couldn't even promise a time frame--they said that it would be a month before they could start working on it.

Cabelas- didn't even have a mechanic--they all quit (supposedly)---I asked them first- "can I get a diagnostic test"---it was 99$. And I was told, "call me next week and I can see when I can schedule it"---so i asked why not schedule it now? I was told, "we have no techs---our last one quit so I am hoping to know when I will have a tech-so call me next week"---forget that.

thank you again--I really appreciate all the help. I would probably still be going in circles without it.
 
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