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2010 F40 with only 64 hours

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wellcraft26

Contributing Member
Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt?

I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water.

Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount?

Do I have to do any valve adjustment too?

Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it?

Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual.

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Right now I'm just about to place an order for everything on the list from boat.net for the service maintenance for this engine plus the timing belt to be on the safe side. Will definitely be looking for the service manual for sure, love to have one every time I get a new toy. Doing an oil and gear oil change too plus all the anodes for fresh water. Almost $500 in total, that hurts.
 
It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack.

I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise.

Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data.

Enjoy.
 
Awesome, thanks for the info. Reading codes and knowing the exact engine hours is a most for me so I'll check on that. as for the timing belt, the only reason I was thinking of replacing it was due to age,it looks like new. Will definitely look for the vst rebuild kit. We ran the boat for about 2 hours yesterday and it ran great, it has a racor filter in there that looks really clean, actually, it looks like new but it will be replace anyway. I added starton to the fuel just in case.

Thanks again, any other info will be greatly appreciate it as I'm new to Yamaha.

rejesterd said:
It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack.

I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise.

Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data.

Enjoy.
Click to expand...
 
I was looking at my list and it looks like I added the filter for the vapor separator but not a new o-ring which I just added to the list. The filter is part of their schedule service parts diagram, but its strange they don't list the o-ring.

Thanks again for your input, needed the advice.
 
rejesterd said:
It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack.

I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise.

Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data.

Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Just ordered the yds Thanks for the tips :)
 
Want to thank everyone for your input, I ended up getting the owners manual, the genuine Yamaha service manual and the yds. Played with it a bit and it's great. The engine had 64 hours as I was told and it has now 68 hours. Ordered all the parts including the timing belt, now I just need to take time for this. The only thing that came up in the yds was over cooling which it doesn't surprise me at all as it has the thermostat stuck open and I replaced that as soon as I got the new parts.
 
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