The switch that you mention as a “cut out switch” is actually part of the SI or SA (I.E., shift interrupt or shift assist) system!
What appears to not be clear is whether or not the OP can crank the engine but it will not fire......, or if the OP cannot get it to crank over at all!
Since he replaced what he referred to as the 50 Amp Fuse, I would guess that he cannot get the engine to crank over!
OP...... we need more information!
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Ooooooops guess ya missed this. and the SI, SA, OP, FU...............
""No warning beep, no gauge readings or nothing when I turn over ignition.""
Question; What else would a 50 amp fuse be referred to as? Possibly a Kannibler shunt?
Just guessing as i always refer to a 50 amp fuse as a 50 amp fuse.
First, as described in the original post it means LOSS OF POWER TO/FROM KEY SWITCH
Trim is powered off battery directly, lights, bilge pump, horn, blower all run off 12 volts supplied to dash, the same 12 volts that also supplies the KEY SWITCH.
The KEY SWITCH supplies voltage to the gauges, beep, crank, ignition.
If engine cranks with no fire then possibly its the shift interrupter switch (cut out). Not his problem
Neutral Safety switch in control box. Stops engine from cranking when in gear if trying to start engine. Not his problem
Loss of 12 volts to and or being distributed through key switch. This is his problem!
If you are not getting anything with the key in the on/run or crank position you have lost the 12 volts to key switch.
Many (not all) have a 20 amp fuse/breaker in the dash or a separate fuse panel or possibly inline with the 12 volt line feeding the key switch. (typically RED wire color)
So look at dash for a fuse/breaker labeled ign, ignition etc.
If no fuse/breaker in dash, look under dash and find RED wire feeding key switch, try to follow it back from key switch and see if there is a fuse holder. if so look/check fuse.
Start there and post results
