Another problem, Possible trashed Block?

Hey all, btws 150HP XR-2 Marathon
Also, feel like I have found the right place to ask this.
I have a hole at the bottom of cylinder six/the metal that is slotted for the rod. I wouldn't be concerned, however the hole goes through to the next section/the block side (talking how the sealing rings section the crankshaft).
I was curious, is my block screwed? Do I do the classic JB weld? Is it fine and doesn't matter?
I'm asking as from my understanding, the engine is Oiled/aired from the bottom up, and am really not sure if this would add pressure to my engine/loose compression, etc.

Trying to figure out before buying new bearings. Thanks and appreciate the help!

Post a pic..if it has a hole knocked thru bottom deck it will need welded.

Sorry had to figure the ole posting a pic out one new forum. Here ya go. And what I was afraid of.

There's some mlm pics up. Was thinking of going the welding right, might buy a mig welder just for it.

Was told could get by with JB welding it but don't really feel comfortable doing that/would rather sand it weld it and repeat till it looked well enough in my book.

Still have a couple thousands to go with the hone before my ring gap is too large.

How much is ---" a couple thousands to go " ----on this cylinder ??--------What is the bore size now and what do you think total clearance is going to be ?------And have you checked for possible cracks in the cylinder sleeve.-----Any more pictures of the piston that disintegrated ??

Thousandths*..bad things happen in threes and my phone is becoming that 3rd bad thing. Sorry.

.025" is max gap, currently sitting around .0215", might be right on the line or a bit over, but all my engine work and the experience of others tells me that it will still be workable.

Just in the debate of how to repair the bottom puncture, as it's really not a hole, more like a crack.

Also, if the roller bearings are cage or cageless. Referencing just the needle crank bearings also references bearings in a cage, but the caged bearings are for power heads smaller then what I have.

Take it to a machine shop and have welded and ground down. Mike the cylinder with a inside mike not rings!!!! The 2L motors like to wear at a taper and from you post I"ll bet its due a bore oversize. What does crank journal look like?

I have pics in another post rod journals 5 and 6. I polished them up and mic'd them, compared to the others, still true.

The worst part is the end cap bearings ate a little of the crankshaft. Polished it up but still have a couple of grooves I can feel with my finger. Don't really want to polished it anymore either. Idk, might just use the old bearings and run it till it dies, or put new bearings in and do the same. Give me more time to save up for another power head.

Was curious, asked in my other post, with that being aluminum, could I just use a punch to manipulate the metal to close the hole/out it back to where it was? Yeah, it will weaken, but how much pressure is really below the piston?...(I know the down stroke causes pressure to push the fuel in whole pushing the exhaust out, but I don't know how much pressure that is)...I would guess no more the 24/25psi due to the volume in the lower end.)

Oh yeah, also, as I haven't mic'd my cylinders as I was looking for the numbers, having found them, my cylinders are tapered, big on top small on bottom. I read something about the combustion slips down and helps push the ring against the cylinder.

I know four strokes, I know one cylinder two strokes...a V6 two stroke has been a fun learning experience...with my stomach dropping as I have to spend more and more money on it. Even if it runs for a year I would be happy.

Dont trash a good motor...take it to a MARINE machine shop and have welded and bored .020. Put a used crank in it,new bearings,pistons,gaskets,carb kits and impeller and run it another 10-15 years.