eleavate the back of hull to lower the front?

I believe all of my vessel's weight rests on the rear axle. there is a 1/2" gap at front of bunks. this unloaded front leaf spring suspension created a huge vibration of the front part of I-beams frame I'm convinced this is what caused the brace to crack and break.
doe's the aft. need to be elevated to lower the front so the hull rests properly dispearsioning the weight to both front and rear axel? vessel appears to be tilted front up like the front seams a tad high.


or can the front of bunks be elevated to rest up against hull like would this load the suspension?


the cross brave is a hardwareless type size 3"x3"x78" having a difficult time finding a replacement, that's if I choose to replace over welding. when I google hardwareless the google thinks hardware and that's basically a messed up search.

I'm still waiting unoptimistically for a response from sunshine of tallahassee they are the manufacturer..

this trailer was purchased 2 years ago and I've never paid any attention to the unloaded front suspension, this trailer had been rear ended same exact top of cross brace which I had welded and reinforced.

edit: this pass. side constantly bouncing tire front has abnormal wear (cupping). I need this taken care of soon because red snapper season starts june1.


Thanks for advice.TB

Sounds like the axles need to be moved to the rear.-------Or shop for the proper trailer for your boat.

Yeh you are chasing a $500 problem on a $200 trailer.

Update: I had the cross brace welded along w/ a stress crack in frame that was created when the rear brace cracked.

On the way home I stopped at a trailer service shop mainly catering to semie trailers.

Man said the load appears to be equally divided between front and rear axels explained about the balancer that’s inbetween the leaf springs being level.

He also noticed the the whole trailer was basically level parallel to the ground.

He thought the solution was to elevate the front of bunks to contact the hull also recommended balancing the wheels. I can observe the drivers side wheels (no fender anymore) and they appear to be balanced.

Edit:when I towed the vessel to the welder I placed a block inbetween the hull and front of bunk just on pass.side this alone significantly reduced any previous wheel hop.

So I’ll insert a spacer up block under each front of bunk.

I also plan to remove the bunk carpet and add the slider plastic blocks each bunk has three, hopefully these blocks will keep saltwater from marinating on my aluminum hull like the carpet has been.
Will report back after some fine tuning.

Thanks Guy's for advice TB

image of welded brace.

took tad over one hour for the brace, then progressed my floatation pod project.

I will order eight 3 1/2" 3/8 stainless steel bolts so underneath brace is supported then ditch the short bolts.

the middle and front cross brace has 3 1/2" bolts though the 2 inside hole then the short 1 1/2" on the outside.

when this rear brace let go it elgogated/streched the already there stress cracks in I beam just under the middle brace about 7"s on both sides.

edit: forgot to mention own the way home the trailer was like a new one minus the rattleing noise the fender was making it's missing the middle diangle surport and w/out it no matter how much tightening the bolts are it's coming loose soon.
TB