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WHERE is it??!

raymondfj40

New member
I’m looking for the bilge pump switch in my engine sump... nowhere in sight. The engine is out and Ive cleaned the oil and grime off the floor. Found what looks like a transducer for depth finder, but no float...anywhere.... common sense tells me it should be at the lowest point near the pumps under the engine.
Pre engine removal the pumps would kick on but not off

bayliner cabin cruiser with penta 225e engine.
 
Your right. It should be at lowest point. Try this. Install your battery wires for accesories etc. Put the plug in your boat and fill the hull with water. Maybe then you can locate the bilge pump
 
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I’m looking for the bilge pump switch in my engine sump... nowhere in sight. The engine is out and Ive cleaned the oil and grime off the floor. Found what looks like a transducer for depth finder,
Again, pictures would be very helpful!
If it is a transducer within the V of the main engine bay area, it will be what is called a "shoot thru" transducer, or what may also be called a "puck" style transducer.
These must be mounted in an area that does not have any core material.

but no float...anywhere.... common sense tells me it should be at the lowest point near the pumps under the engine.
It should be at lowest point.
All due respect..... that would be incorrect!
You will want the float switch mounted a bit higher than the pump's lowest draw-down capability. This ensures that the float switch will cut power to the pump when the water level reaches a safe level.

If the float switch is mounted too low, it may leave the pump running.

You will do best with a separate mechanical float switch. The electronic sensor style and/or the integrated pump float switch does not work as well (debris can cause a malfunction).

Pre engine removal the pumps would kick on but not off
See above.


FYI..... for the main bilge pump, you will want at least a 1500 GPM or larger.
If you also have a small pump (in addition to a main pump), it can be a small 500 GPM.

The main bilge pump should NOT be operated via an On/OFF/Auto helm switch.
It's float switch should have an "un-interrupted" power source.
A good location for this will be the house bank MBSS connection.
This leaves power to the float switch regardless of the MBSS being ON or OFF, and it eliminates a direct battery connection that leads to a Battery Rat's Nest.

Install your battery wires for accesories etc

If you were to wire the float switch to an accessory point, and were to leave the boat un-attended with the MBSS turned OFF, your main bilge pump's float switch will not be able to operate the bilge pump!


bayliner cabin cruiser with penta 225e engine.
Suggestion:
While the AQ225E engine is out, replace the PDS bearings and seals.
You can buy these parts through a major bearing supplier........... $45 or so!



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Upon closer inspection, along with the two bilge pumps in the engine sump, there is a bilge pump in the cabin under the step down with a float positioned right next to it. Is it possible that all three pumps run off the same float?

I’m looking for the bilge pump switch in my engine sump... nowhere in sight. The engine is out and Ive cleaned the oil and grime off the floor. Found what looks like a transducer for depth finder, but no float...anywhere.... common sense tells me it should be at the lowest point near the pumps under the engine.
Pre engine removal the pumps would kick on but not off

bayliner cabin cruiser with penta 225e engine.
 
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Upon closer inspection, along with the two bilge pumps in the engine sump, there is a bilge pump in the cabin under the step down with a float positioned right next to it. Is it possible that all three pumps run off the same float?

I suppose it could be, but..... that would be incorrect in my book.

Any forward bilge pumps (mid cabin, v-berth, etc) can be powered via an interrupt-able power source.
However, if you occasionally moor this boat, you DO NOT want your main engine bay bilge pump's Float Switch to be powered via any On/Off/Auto helm switch, or by any interrupt-able power source.

Here's a good example of how a main engine bay bilge pump float switch should be powered.
Note that there are battery cables ONLY connecting to the actual battery banks.

Eric Knox schematic.jpg


Again...... While the AQ225E engine is out, replace the PDS bearings and seals.
You can buy these parts through a major bearing supplier........... $45 or so!

A failure here will be very costly.





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