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2003 3.0GLP-B Volvo Penta SX trim cylinder pin removal

T

Timagator

New member
I’m having trouble trying to get the trim cylinder pins removed. I don’t want to break the housing. I have hit them with a dead low rubber mallet. I have sprayed the bushings with penetrant. I let that sit overnight. Still won’t move. Any suggestions would be great.
 
Try a more vigorous penetrating fluid. You may have to use a little heat. I would suggest a propane torch as an oxy acetylene torch is way to hot. Use a block of hardwood and a heavy hammer. And pound away. A gòod indication when using the heat would see the penetrating fluid start to boil. Then hit it.
 
mechanicman said:
Try a more vigorous penetrating fluid. You may have to use a little heat. I would suggest a propane torch as an oxy acetylene torch is way to hot. Use a block of hardwood and a heavy hammer. And pound away. A gòod indication when using the heat would see the penetrating fluid start to boil. Then hit it.
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Thank you. I’ll try that. Just don’t want too break anything.
 
mechanicman said:
Just be careful
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That worked. Pin removed. Thank you for you help and guidance.
Now im trying to remove the lower unit with the drive shaft. 6 nut’s removed, shift cable removed, and both hose clamps to both bellows to transom removed. Used heat and knocker loose penetrant on the 2 studs that shown corrosion. Supported the housing level and tried to pull it out. No separation at all. I even tried to wrap a rope around the lower part of the housing, then to the eye bolt at the dipstick hole, then down to a brass rod I stuck through where the pin was, and back up to the eyelet where I tied the rope in the center of the pin and eyelet. I pulled with all my 320lb 6’4 body had to offer. Many times, and no movement what so ever. Any suggestions or tips would be great!
 
Timagator said:
That worked. Pin removed. Thank you for you help and guidance.
Now im trying to remove the lower unit with the drive shaft. 6 nut’s removed, shift cable removed, and both hose clamps to both bellows to transom removed. Used heat and knocker loose penetrant on the 2 studs that shown corrosion. Supported the housing level and tried to pull it out. No separation at all. I even tried to wrap a rope around the lower part of the housing, then to the eye bolt at the dipstick hole, then down to a brass rod I stuck through where the pin was, and back up to the eyelet where I tied the rope in the center of the pin and eyelet. I pulled with all my 320lb 6’4 body had to offer. Many times, and no movement what so ever. Any suggestions or tips would be great!
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Ive seen the trim cylinders used before to pop the drive loose before, small bumps.
 
I also am battling the trim cylinder pivot pin at the gimbal ring end being stuck, did you use the propane torch? were you trim hoses removed?

TIA
 
You should remove the drive as a whole piece. For the volvo. 6 nuts on upper drive section. No need to remove bellows as they stay there on the gimbal housing. Make sure the boat is level. You may need to pry the upper housing away from the gimbal housing. Using a prybar.
 
kingsfisherman said:
I also am battling the trim cylinder pivot pin at the gimbal ring end being stuck, did you use the propane torch? were you trim hoses removed?

TIA
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i used a high temp heat gun. Also spraying it many times with penetrant while it’s hot. I removed the other end that you’re taking about. My hammer is a 32oz ball peen, and a 1/2” brass rod about 18” long. It took a lot of hits to move it a little. Then I went to the other side, and sprayed it again, heated it again, and hit again, and again. With a smaller diameter shaft that fit through the housing I was able to drive it completely through without heating it anymore. I noticed one side was corroded a little but the other side wasn’t. I did the final push towards the corroded side.
I hope this helps.
 
Well you need to seperate the drive from the gimbal housing. So you need to gently pry between where they mount. If it won't budge . You may have an internal problem. The horizontal drive shaft might be stuck in the coupler. And that is a whole different ball game.
So hopefully it comes out.
 
I was finally able to remove the drive from the housing. I used a small jack to push the bottom of the drive. With the help from some vinegar and dawn soap as well as leaving it sit for 8 hours with the pressure of the jack, it popped loose. There was a lot of corrosion around the nipple and “o” ring area that bound everything up. Thank you for you help with this and I’m so glad you did. I was so worried about breaking the thing. The shaft is rusty and the gimble area is corroded some. Looks like a lot of water was in there. I’ll be changing the bearing and cleaning everything up real good.
 
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