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1992 Volvo Penta 5.7L with DP-C drive ....... PDS bearing failure?

RicardoMarine

RicardoMarine

Gold Medal Contributor
I took the liberty to start a thread for this member. (originally from a PM)

Rickymiller said:
Bought a new bought 1992 century open bow with the 5.7 Volvo Penta DP-C out drive. I’m new to Volvo mostly only worked on a little bit of mercruiser.
But the guy i bought it off of said he was wide open went to neutral and it shut the engine off.
Typically, one cannot go from gear into neutral while under load. Perhaps more info is needed.

Finally got it back started and there was noise and smoke from behind the engine. My question is what all could happen back there when the pds bearing fail?
The later AQ series 5.7L with a DP-C drive should be using a single bearing PDS with a pilot nose just ahead of the Borg Warner splines.
The pilot nose is centered in a crankshaft bushing.
If the single bearing was to fail, it can cause severe damage to the AFT area.
The Borg Warner drive coupler is all steel, so there should be no smoke produced from a failure at that area.

Is this a bigger job then i am expecting to get into?
If you are asking about PDS bearing replacement, the PDS with the bearing should come out AFT.
The bearing itself is an industry standard 6206-2RS (sealed bearing).
Click to expand...

Can you give us more info?

Is the drive a factory installed Volvo Penta DP-C?
By chance is the drive a converted 1992 OMC Cobra to Volvo Penta DP-S?
By chance, did the smoke have an odor like burning rubber?
On your way back in, did the drive go into FWD or REV?
Did you notice a strong vibration?


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RicardoMarine said:
I took the liberty to start a thread for this member. (originally from a PM)



Can you give us more info?

Is the drive a factory installed Volvo Penta DP-C?
By chance is the drive a converted 1992 OMC Cobra to Volvo Penta DP-S?
By chance, did the smoke have an odor like burning rubber?
On your way back in, did the drive go into FWD or REV?
Did you notice a strong vibration?


.
Click to expand...
cannot say if it was the factory drive or not. But the people that owned it before me said they haven’t messed with anything on it. The guy also was able to limp it back into the dock after this failure happened. Said there was bad shaking, groaning noises.
 
Rickymiller said:
cannot say if it was the factory drive or not. But the people that owned it before me said they haven’t messed with anything on it. The guy also was able to limp it back into the dock after this failure happened. Said there was bad shaking, groaning noises.
Click to expand...


You were not operating the boat when this occurred.... correct?

Do you know if the smoke produced a burning rubber odor? (a DP-C does not use a rubber hub drive coupler)

By chance is the drive a converted 1992 OMC Cobra to Volvo Penta DP-S, or is it a true DP-C drive?
(pictures would be very helpful)

Does the drive go into FWD or REV now?

the shaking and groaning may have been caused by a failed PDS bearing, and/or a failed universal drive shaft, or both.

Suggestion (if this is a DP-C drive)

you'll need to remove the transmission ....aka upper gear unit.
pull the gear oil dip stick.
pull the gear oil drain plug, drain the gear oil into a clean container.
remove the rear shift mechanism cover.
disconnect the transmission's vertical shift shaft at the clevis pin (see image below).
remove the helmet pin (should be two 3/8" cap screws to remove).
DO NOT mix these bolts up..... they are of a certain length and must go back in where they were!
tilt the helmet up and out of your way.
loosen the transmission's two 3/8" NC nuts (one on each side of the transmission).
loosen the transmission's two vertically positioned 3/8" cap screws (at the rear).
loosen the AFT bellows clamp and slide the bellows from the transmission's collar.
lift the transmission UP, turn it 90* sideways, and remove.
Watch for the shims that will be underneath the transmission lower bearing...... it is imperative that they all go back in!
(often a shim will stick to the bearing via an oil film)

once the transmission is out of your way, see if the PDS can be moved in a radial fashion.
If so, the PDS bearing is damaged.

to remove the PDS...... get the AFT seal out of your way... sacrifice it if need be.
remove the two large snap rings.
the single bearing PDS should come out AFT.

examine the universal drive shaft (it will be attached to the transmission and will come out with it).




AQ series transmission removal.jpg



Again, several good pictures would be very helpful!

(you may be required to have a minimum of 3 posts in order to post photos)


 .






 
Last edited:
RicardoMarine said:
You were not operating the boat when this occurred.... correct?

Do you know if the smoke produced a burning rubber odor? (a DP-C does not use a rubber hub drive coupler)

By chance is the drive a converted 1992 OMC Cobra to Volvo Penta DP-S, or is it a true DP-C drive?
(pictures would be very helpful)

Does the drive go into FWD or REV now?

the shaking and groaning may have been caused by a failed PDS bearing, and/or a failed universal drive shaft, or both.

Suggestion (if this is a DP-C drive)

you'll need to remove the transmission ....aka upper gear unit.
pull the gear oil dip stick.
pull the gear oil drain plug, drain the gear oil into a clean container.
remove the rear shift mechanism cover.
disconnect the transmission's vertical shift shaft at the clevis pin (see image below).
remove the helmet pin (should be two 3/8" cap screws to remove).
DO NOT mix these bolts up..... they are of a certain length and must go back in where they were!
tilt the helmet up and out of your way.
loosen the transmission's two 3/8" NC nuts (one on each side of the transmission).
loosen the transmission's two vertically positioned 3/8" cap screws (at the rear).
loosen the AFT bellows clamp and slide the bellows from the transmission's collar.
lift the transmission UP, turn it 90* sideways, and remove.
Watch for the shims that will be underneath the transmission lower bearing...... it is imperative that they all go back in!
(often a shim will stick to the bearing via an oil film)

once the transmission is out of your way, see if the PDS can be moved in a radial fashion.
If so, the PDS bearing is damaged.

to remove the PDS...... get the AFT seal out of your way... sacrifice it if need be.
remove the two large snap rings.
the single bearing PDS should come out AFT.

examine the universal drive shaft (it will be attached to the transmission and will come out with it).




View attachment 20222



Again, several good pictures would be very helpful!

(you may be required to have a minimum of 3 posts in order to post photos)


 .
Click to expand...

Yes i was not on the boat when this happened. Buying it from a guy i work with. He said it didn’t smell like rubber. I think the smoke was from him trying to start it. Said it took awhile to get the boat running again. Only have a couple pictures of the boat will try and post them. While I’m in there what else should i replace with the bearing. If i have to do the bellows can i do that with just removing the transmission? Sorry about all these questions. Kinda new to boats and really new to the Volvo pento
 
Yes, by removing the transmission you will be able to pull the PDS, replace the the PDS bearing and seal, replace the drive shaft bellows, and I would strongly suggest replacing the universal driveshaft “bearing crosses”!
Replacing the bearing crosses (aka ujoints) will require the removal of the main drive gear bearing box from the transmission housing.

And that would be if there is no flywheel cover damage or any other damage!


.
 
Yea
RicardoMarine said:
Yes, by removing the transmission you will be able to pull the PDS, replace the the PDS bearing and seal, replace the drive shaft bellows, and I would strongly suggest replacing the universal driveshaft “bearing crosses”!
Replacing the bearing crosses (aka ujoints) will require the removal of the main drive gear bearing box from the transmission housing.

And that would be if there is no flywheel cover damage or any other damage!


.
Click to expand...
Would i be able to see if there is flywheel damage without removing the motor?
 
Also one more question. If i pull the transmission off is there any seals i need to replaced? If there is donyou have a part number by chnace
 
Rickymiller said:
Yea
Would i be able to see if there is flywheel damage without removing the Engine?
Click to expand...
Most often, any damage caused by a PDS bearing failure would likely be visible from AFT.
The damage can range from PDS bearing bore expansion to complete bellows snout damage, and more in extreme cases.

Rickymiller said:
Also one more question. If i pull the transmission off is there any seals i need to replaced? If there is do you have a part number by chnace
Click to expand...

It's always best if the owner searches and finds his own info.
You can find any of the OEM p/n's here via engine model number.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx


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7517dc84-e4e9-485a-baea-6a4ccfb6e453
 
Tried to post pictures and can’t figure it out lol. But finally got the boat home everything tore apart. The bellow was full of water but the bearing didn’t tear anything up. Was able to pull it atf. Getting ready to order all the parts and just wondering about the gaskets on the transmission. I seen 1 big o-ring and 1 smaller o-ring but i keep reading online that there should be 3. Just wondering if i missed something. Also is there a seal supposed to go on the whole base on the transmission or is it just machined to seal to the lower end.
 
............................
Rickymiller said:
Tried to post pictures and can’t figure it out lol. But finally got the boat home everything tore apart. The bellow was full of water but the bearing didn’t tear anything up. Was able to pull it atf. Getting ready to order all the parts and just wondering about the gaskets on the transmission.
The top cover requires a looped gasket.... all others will be O-rings.
(I doubt that you will be removing the top cover)

I have seen 1 big o-ring and 1 smaller o-ring but i keep reading online that there should be 3.
For doing a transmission R&R ONLY, there will actually be 4 O-rings required!
You will be replacing two O-rings at the transmission...... (one for the large bearing, and one at the oil drain back tube).
The other two O-rings will be for the dip stick and the drain plug.

Now if you are removing the transmission bearing box for universal drive shaft repair, then you will need that O-ring as well.

Just wondering if i missed something. Also is there a seal supposed to go on the whole base on the transmission or is it just machined to seal to the lower end.
Again..... one large O-ring that fits around the large bearing, and one O-ring for the oil drain back tube.
The large O-ring fits around the bearing (on the transmission), and the oil drain back O-ring fits around the extended portion the tube (on the Intermediate housing).

Watch for the shims as you remove the transmission. These MUST go back in as they were!
Click to expand...
 
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