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First Post ---2007 Honda 150- stutters then dies

My new to me 07 - 150 first time trying to fire it upm (bought 2 yrs ago- sitting since)- I have converted old 19' seasport to outboard w/nice alum bracket
300 hr, 190 cold compression all 4---- primer pumped correctly -fresh gas- no start just a few stutters (1-2 seconds)
--changed fuel filter, cleaned to other vapor filter, fuel pump seems ok pumping a small amount of gas, goes into vst and it seems to be ok (but I dont know)
I live on Lopez Island, Wa, dont want to go to Honda Dealer, truck it on ferry, truck it back (all day deal) . I think it makes sense to just
--put on a new fuel pump
--put on a new vst
--hope for best
Have manuals, worked on Porches, some talent.

What else should I replace ?
 
Before guessing and throwing money at parts, I would go through the entire fuel system checking hoses and filters. It would be a good idea to replace all of the filters so that you have a good baseline. Drain the VST. The procedure is described in the owner's manual which can be downloaded for free from Honda Marine. Then try to fire it up and let it run for awhile.

If it fires up but doesn't run well, attach a small auxiliary tank with mixture of gas and Sea Foam 5:1 mixture. Run that through the engine at idle for several minutes, then shut it down for about 30 minutes to an hour. Restart on pure fuel and let it run. You likely get a very smokey exhaust at first. Repeat procedure. If you are lucky, that will dissolve and deposits and clean up the injectors.

When you do need parts, the best place to get them is www.boats.net. Very reasonable prices and fast shipping.

If you are going to be doing your own maintenance and repair, invest in the official Helm Shop Manual specific to your engine. It will pay for itself many. many times over. Don't waste your money on the aftermarket manuals - too many errors and omissions.
 
The ethanol had completly filled orifaces in the VST, glad I took it apart. All filters will be changed out. I think that I will bench clean the injectors. Do you think the 5-1 will clean up the injectors?

I have a feeling they are pretty clean, the ethanol gum was created by gas sitting in the carb for a couple of years of inattention by previous owner and then me modifying the Seasport from a V6 Chevy w/Volvo outdrive, that took more time. Its been a fun project looking forward to putting it in the water this year.

I'll get that manual--- and too bad for you, I'll keep in touch.
Jimmy
Lopez Island
 
I cleaned and degummed the VST, got new gaskets, HP fuel filter. It now runs, idles very nice. No in water test yet due to low tides, will do soon. So running on a hose motor malfuntion light is on constant, no beeping. I will replace fuel and wtr separator filters.
Could they be causing Malfunction light steady on issue ?
Water test will tell me (thru rpm limiting stop) . If it runs fine with malfunction light on, is that dangerous.
Thx for help.
 
Are you sure you alarm is working? When you turn on the key switch, you should get two short beeps on the alarm.

Fouled fuel and separator filters should not cause the MIL light to come on.

Did you by chance attempt to pull fault codes and inadvertently leave the shunt plugged into the service connector? That will cause the MIL light to stay on constantly. Other things that will cause the MIL light to stay on are:
1. Short circuit in the (red) service connector
2. Short circuit in the MIL wire
3. Short circuit in the sensor power supply line
4. Open circuit in the power supply to the ECM (not likely since it runs.)
5. Faulty ECM.
 
Are you sure you alarm is working? When you turn on the key switch, you should get two short beeps on the alarm.

Fouled fuel and separator filters should not cause the MIL light to come on.

Did you by chance attempt to pull fault codes and inadvertently leave the shunt plugged into the service connector? That will cause the MIL light to stay on constantly. Other things that will cause the MIL light to stay on are:
1. Short circuit in the (red) service connector
2. Short circuit in the MIL wire
3. Short circuit in the sensor power supply line
4. Open circuit in the power supply to the ECM (not likely since it runs.)
5. Faulty ECM.


I do not know how to pull fault codes, yes on the 2 short beep when I turn on the ignition switch, green temp , and battery and yellow something go off after a second or so, and the red motor stays on ( i could idle for an hour on the hose and it would still stay on. I purchase wiring harness(s) main and instrument and ran them to the dash to the new gauges, new gauges seem to work fine (rpm, tilt, volt, i still cant get gas to work , gauge new, perhaps sender issue although ohm meter seems to indicate that sender is working (this is just to dumb, thats why I not asking anybody about it. Good on old porches, early 911's, old vw's, but anything with a smart box is difficult.
I am having trouble understanding how to use this site, wish my phd kid was here and not in NYC.
Hope this gets thru
 
The red battery (ACG - alternator) light should stay on until you start the engine. The green oil pressure light should stay off until you start the engine. The red overheat light will come on when you have an over heat situation. The red MIL (i.e. PGM) light will only come on if you have a problem with the programmed fuel injection system.

Easy things first. The fuel level gauge does not come from the engine. It comes directly from the fuel level sending unit on the top of your fuel tank. You need to find those two wires and hook them up to the fuel level gauge. One is pink and the other is pink/blue. See attached diagram.
View attachment Electrical Diagram Honda Digital Gauges Dual engines.pdf

Looking at that same diagram, you will see that the PGM light wire is red/blue and plugs into a 3-prong connector. Check that connector to make sure you have a clean connection and no broken loose wire into the connector.

The procedure for pulling fault codes is attached below.
View attachment Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf

I do not have the fault codes for the BF 150, but if you post what fault numbers you see, someone will let you know what they mean.
 
The red battery (ACG - alternator) light should stay on until you start the engine. The green oil pressure light should stay off until you start the engine. The red overheat light will come on when you have an over heat situation. The red MIL (i.e. PGM) light will only come on if you have a problem with the programmed fuel injection system.

Easy things first. The fuel level gauge does not come from the engine. It comes directly from the fuel level sending unit on the top of your fuel tank. You need to find those two wires and hook them up to the fuel level gauge. One is pink and the other is pink/blue. See attached diagram.
View attachment 20342

Looking at that same diagram, you will see that the PGM light wire is red/blue and plugs into a 3-prong connector. Check that connector to make sure you have a clean connection and no broken loose wire into the connector.

The procedure for pulling fault codes is attached below.
View attachment 20343

I do not have the fault codes for the BF 150, but if you post what fault numbers you see, someone will let you know what they mean.


Thanks for your help- I had to remove the tank sender, reverse the swing on it and then adjust the float for the approx volume in the tank. Tank was empty ( i had it professionally cleaned, i re-installed it.) The revious owner must never have had the gas gauge showing the correct amount of fuel in the tank. I know it is is a 52 gallon tank (manufacturers labelon it and I know that I put about 12-13 gallons in it last week. I then adjusted the float to show approx 1/4 + on the gauge.
The PGM connecton is brand new (new factory cables I installed this spring), it looks good. I will do this shunt thing tomorrow. If I can wire and pass my new shop electrical inspection, I'm sure I can do this "shunt thing". So I pull the 4 - wire plug apart and insert a paper clip into the 2 wires as mentioned and then put the connector back together with the shunt (paper clip) in place.. Then I'll go thru that process as outlined in the download.
Hope i dont short out a motherboard on blow up something.
Again thanks for help
Jimmy- Lopez Island
 
Hi again- I did the shunt proceedure and got the 1 blink every 3 seconds, that goes on forever. As it says in the download you sent me--
Three possibilities or maybe all three or 1 or 2 of them I guess;
----Faulty O2 sensor
----low fuel pressure
----misfiring plug or failing coil
Because I had a gummed up VST and the fact that it idles real nice and runs at 1200-1500 real nice, what would a smart guy like you should be done.
Maybe I should just do all three, or maybe I should just get the boat wet and see what on the water problems I have. Cash is not a concern, I'm so deep into this project now that it makes sense to just go ahead and do whats right.

Whats right?

I'm so blessed that you decided to help, thanks again.

Jimmy
Lopez Island
 
You had no alarm so it means the O2 sensor fault is no longer active, just clear the codes. and it should be fine, it was probably triggered by bad fuel, just doing its job, not faulty
 
To clear faults plug in shunt tool to diagnostic plug, turn key on and activate kill switch 3 times with 2 sec intervals, happy boating :)
 
You had no alarm so it means the O2 sensor fault is no longer active, just clear the codes. and it should be fine, it was probably triggered by bad fuel, just doing its job, not faulty

Hi
So i put the shunt in again to the back and lime green/white stripe wire and the black wire. Got a single beep when i turned on the ignition switch, I then did the kill switch routing and got to 2 or 3 on-offs with the kill switch I got 2 beeps. Took out the shunt and the malfunction lite is on and wont go off with a start to idle. Then shut off the motor and installed the shunt again, up to the cabin and turned on ignition switch and got no error blinking at all, just a steady malfuntion lite. Did the routine again shunt, kill switch a full 5 times, no double beeps no indication of any code flashings on the malfunction indicator.

Maybe it just needs to get on the water at get some rpms up or maybe it will stall out or maybe???. I do have a nice 15 hp honda kicker to get back to dock if the 150 dies on me. Dont really like the idea, did put new plugs in but it runs the same at the lower rpm's.

I happen to own a 2006 Honda Civic car that I bought new, it runs great always has.

Thanks for help
Jimmy
 
The 2 beeps you got was the fault clearing. The check eng light on with no alarm indicates an earth leakage somewhere, ie a wiring fault. By all means,take it for a run, the only things that can cause eng damage is oil pressure failure and overheat, any other faults may cause running issues but no risk of engine damage. To find your light issue start by checking the boat side harness plugs for any signs of corrosion or moisture. The easiest thing would be to see if a dealer has a separate console to plug in and see if it works, failing that, you may have a puzzle on your hands
 
The 2 beeps you got was the fault clearing. The check eng light on with no alarm indicates an earth leakage somewhere, ie a wiring fault. By all means,take it for a run, the only things that can cause eng damage is oil pressure failure and overheat, any other faults may cause running issues but no risk of engine damage. To find your light issue start by checking the boat side harness plugs for any signs of corrosion or moisture. The easiest thing would be to see if a dealer has a separate console to plug in and see if it works, failing that, you may have a puzzle on your hands


I did the rewire myself form a V6/I/O, I'll check it all out. The whole thing has been a puzzle, kinda like life.
A lot of puzzles and then you die-- 74 for me, not ready to go yet but this might be the last boat.
Appreciate all your help.

Nice day up here in the San Juans, with the holiday weekend coming, I wont launch till next week.

Jimmy- "Resolute" 19' Seasport Skipper (about 22" now with the Hondas hanging on a bracket)
Lopez Island
 
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