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AQ145 PDS engine removal

K

Kiwibob

New member
Need to remove my AQ145 to fit later model replacement.

Everyone is telling me i need to remove the stern drive but i am very puzzled as to why.

Can't i just unbolt the flywheel cover / Bellhousing as I would in a car and remove the engine from the front of it?

I have no issue with moving the engine directly forward or removing the bottom bolt from the flywheel housing (as the workshop manual suggests that's a problem!).

On a side note i am replacing the mid 80's marine engine with the similar B230 engine from a mid 90's car.
Not straight forward at all and if wanted i can do a separate thread about it. Biggest issue is to set up a drive for the raw water pump.

Thanking you in advance.
 
You do not need to remove the stern drive in order to pull the engine....... that would be for a Merc or OMC.

Yes, you can separate the engine from the flywheel cover.

The automotive engine (as it is now) will be incorrect for you.

In order to remove the PDS (for a bearing replacement), the transmission ONLY needs to be removed.
 
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Kiwi one thing to consider is the distributor on the new engine my 1995 volvo 940 had this engine, absolutely one of the best engines I have ever owned ....

the distributor on mine was driven off the back of the camshaft vs the front RH side of engine on older ones. The car distributor will not be marine rated not sure if the newer block can swap the older marine ignition and be driven off the balance shaft in the side of the engine
 
In addition to the distributor location, the automotive advance cure will be incorrect for marine use. The cam profile is also incorrect!

He will also also need the front cover arrangement for the seawater pump.


.
 
RicardoMarine said:
You do not need to remove the stern drive in order to pull the engine....... that would be for a Merc or OMC.

Yes, you can separate the engine from the flywheel cover.

The automotive engine (as it is now) will be incorrect for you.

In order to remove the PDS (for a bearing replacement), the transmission ONLY needs to be removed.
Click to expand...

We are finding that out.

Running the original manifolds / carbs etc.

We are modifying the car water pump to allow fitting of the original heat exchanger's as well as making an adapter up to run the raw water pump off the balance shaft. The modified pump will allow us to connect with a piece of rubber hose (and hose clips) rather then the usual interference slide fit and O ring seals. The actual raw pump mount / cover lines up on 2/3 holes so we shall tap the other into the block. Talked to some spe******ts here and the heat rise tube holes under the exhaust manifold are being fitted with Brass welsh plugs (13/16").

As per other post - yes the distributor drives off the back of the camshaft on new engine. - I have about 10mm clearance on steering arm for the stern drive :-(
According to Volvo guys here the camshaft is the same between marine and road, not sure but friend has same engine thru a shaft drive and reckons its fine.
Later model distributor has been recommended due to advances (?) in petrol eg unleaded etc.
 
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..............
Kiwibob said:
As per other post - yes the distributor drives off the back of the camshaft on new engine. - I have about 10mm clearance on steering arm for the stern drive :-(
According to Volvo guys here the camshaft is the same between marine and road, not sure but friend has same engine thru a shaft drive and reckons its fine.
If the over-lap or lobe separation is incorrect for marine use, the risk will be reversion.

Later model distributor has been recommended due to advances (?) in petrol eg unleaded etc.
See the OEM ignition advance specs for the marine version AQ145.
If the auto ignition system offers too much advance and too early, you may cause detonation, regardless of the fuel.
Click to expand...
 
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