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Trick to start a brand new Tohatsu EFI

nirvanaws

New member
Just brought a 2018 20HP Tohatsu EFI 4 stroke, unbox it and add engine oil (between low and high mark), and hook up with new gas and try to start it. Primed the bulb on the fuel line and pulled hundred times in one hour, can't start.

I brought it from a online dealer, from the paper work i received, there is a 'pre-sale inspection' form, but it was empty.

Called my nearest tohatsu dealer, the backlog time is 2 weeks.

bad experience on Tohastu. so frustrated.
 
0. Model year is irrelevant when discussing servicing of any Tohatsu/Nissan outboard; the model/serial is what you need. I assume you have an MFS20E.

1. This why online dealers can be a poor choice for those who don't already know how to operate the newer outboards. Frankly, the online dealer did not even know whether there was an outboard in the box... could have been a box of concrete blocks for all they knew. They didn't do a PDI. Strong incentive for brick-and-mortar dealers.

2. A local brick-and-mortar dealer can do your PDI (pre-delivery inspection); and it should be at no charge, as Tohatsu America will charge the online dealer for the PDI that they did not do, and send that payment to the bricks-and-mortar dealer who actually did what they were supposed to do... so the physical dealer doesn't lose out.

3. After priming the oil system by pulling about 10 times (required after filling with oil the first time -- as shown in your owner's manual) then trying to start with a half-dozen pulls, it should be clear that something is wrong. Why on earth would you pull 100 times?

3. Tohatsu makes all Merc motors 30 and down, as well as all Evinrudes 20 and down, so you surely can't single-out Tohatsu; you would get the same identical motor form those other 2 manufacturers as well.

4. Those diatribes aside, you need to understand that if you have any batteryless EFI outboard and pull-start it, it is going to take at least 3 pulls. One to pressurize the fuel system, one to charge the ignition system, and the 3rd pull to start.

5. Did you contact your online dealer? Did they offer any assistance?

6. Did you follow the starting procedure in your manual? You must have the fuel primed, the stop lanyard attached; must be in Neutral, and must have the throttle set at start... NOT opened. Then you must pull the starter handle until it engages, then pull briskly, all the way out -- not just a few inches. Repeat about 3 times or so, as I mentioned.

7. If it does not start, something is wrong -- likely either lack of fuel or spark. Don't exhaust your shoulder pulling; check it out.
 
I checked the fuel is correctly passed the fuel filter, and also i can see the spark very clearly.

@pvanv
yes, i am following the manual, and did exactly what you listed here.

I described what i experienced on the phone to the online dealer, his suggested me to take the outboard to a local deal for further check.
 
choosing online dealer is my short-sight, i only see the tax free and $100 off ebay discount side of the story, but missed the usability side ...
 
I have sold/installed several of these 9.9/15/20E motors. All started fine out of the box. I would definitely consult your local dealer. Ask for a PDI, and see what they say. If you have fuel and spark, it should run, so diagnosing over the online forum would be challenging.
 
Got a call from dealer and picked up the motor back.

The dealer just tap the VST (?) module with a screw driver, and primed the bulb again, and it started without any problem.

He told me there is a float in the VST and the float seems stuck somehow (maybe old fuel), once he tapped the VST and primed with the new fuel and the stuck float is lubricated and is free to move. And he suggest me to burn out all the gas in the motor after use ( i thought a EFI should not have the old fuel issue ?)


Currently, the motor is starting fine (3 pulls), though the idle is a little rough (but wont turn off), don't know if it should bring it back to the dealer or not.
 
Port EFI motors (of all brands) have a vapor separator. That has a float and works like a carb, so yes, old gas could muck it up. Any time a carbed motor will sit idle for a couple of days, it's a good idea to run it dry. With EFI, the time is somewhat extended, but crud in the vapor separator would still be an issue. It does have a drain, so if storing for more than say a month (off season) it's still a good idea to either run it dry, or drain the vapor separator.
 
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