2002 55hp two stroke starting advice

Good evening folks,

looking for for some advice my outboard runs fine when it’s on but at sometimes it’s a bear. Most times it starts on the first pull but then there’s times where you can pull it as much as you want but if there isn’t started fluid and drained carbs it won’t be starting. I got annoyed with it tonight and took apart the carburetors and have it soaking in carb cleaner, did a seafoam treatment, and added marine fuel stabilizer. Aside from that are there any other tricks to the trade I could try to have this be a more consistent motor?

If indeed it is a carburetor issue (and it sounds like it might be), soaking the carbs is not enough to get them cleaned. They need to be taken apart, every orifice gone through with some kind of fine metal wire (I use one pulled from a wire brush) sprayed with carb cleaner and blown with compressed air. Not sure whether you have done this or not in addition to the soaking. While you're in there use a carb kit to replace all jets, needles, float (make sure you adjust if properly both ways as per manual) & cover plugs.
The real experts will chime in too I'm sure.

thebrokenjohnson said:

Most times it starts on the first pull but then there’s times where you can pull it as much as you want but if there isn’t started fluid and drained carbs it won’t be starting.

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Starter fluid and drained carbs? That's an odd combination.

Please post the model # that's on the port side transom bracket and also tell us the exact start sequence you're using. The parts listings here don't show a 55HP in the 2002 model year.

So this is a rope start only, it doesn't have an electric starter? I don't see that option for a 2002. There is a 1992 engine that is a rope start 55HP. Is yours a tiller handle? We really need the model number to make sure exactly what you're working with. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1992&hp=55&model=J55RWLENM

The 1992 55HP had a manual primer pump for cold starts. Your start sequence should be something like this:
1) Squeeze primer bulb until firm.
2) Pump manual primer 2 or 3 times
3) Sturn throttle handle to start position
4) Pull cord.

If you are skipping the primer part that could be part of your issue. Also, make sure you have a good lanyard on the dead man switch so that the kill button isn't accidentally grounding out and causing you a no-spark condition.

Finally, as Jupiter stated, just soaking carbs isn't enough. You have a to go through each orifice and jet to make sure they are clear.

Right, go to a welding shop and get a "tip cleaner". This is what I personally recommend and use for jet/orifice cleaning. Why? They are engineered to not harm the material that your cleaning, yet be durable for frequent use. Physically opening up the passage to its engineered size is so very critical to minimize the chance of a lean burn, which can score cylinders and pistons.......specifically problematic on multi carb applications where a leaner running carb may be difficult to detect at higher speeds.