taylormade
Member
Ok, while waiting for my carb kits to arrive, I thought I'd dig into some other bugaboos that have been irking me since I've owned this boat. The warning indicator lights have never worked.
I got to searching and found this thread and followed it. Unfortunately, it wasn't a success for me. I have continuity on the thermal (red) wire from the terminal on the engine to the controls but I do NOT have continuity on the yellow wire on the oil pressure sensor switch. I removed the wire from the sensor and have continuity from the terminal to the side of the switch body (as suggested in the service manual) so I don't believe it's the switch.
The motor runs great (aside from the carb issue) and the lights have never worked in my ownership. I'm wondering if I have a problem with voltage getting to where it's supposed to be. I seem to have a disappearing ground that comes and goes and I can't figure out why for the life of me. Is there a way to bench test the lights with standard 12V directly hooked up to a battery? That will at least eliminate the lights as the culprit.
Should I have continuity from the OPS' yellow wire to the control yellow wire or is that only when triggered somehow in the CDI?
Thanks!
Scott
I got to searching and found this thread and followed it. Unfortunately, it wasn't a success for me. I have continuity on the thermal (red) wire from the terminal on the engine to the controls but I do NOT have continuity on the yellow wire on the oil pressure sensor switch. I removed the wire from the sensor and have continuity from the terminal to the side of the switch body (as suggested in the service manual) so I don't believe it's the switch.
The motor runs great (aside from the carb issue) and the lights have never worked in my ownership. I'm wondering if I have a problem with voltage getting to where it's supposed to be. I seem to have a disappearing ground that comes and goes and I can't figure out why for the life of me. Is there a way to bench test the lights with standard 12V directly hooked up to a battery? That will at least eliminate the lights as the culprit.
Should I have continuity from the OPS' yellow wire to the control yellow wire or is that only when triggered somehow in the CDI?
Thanks!
Scott
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