Electrical Experts Advice - Stator Replacement?

I have a 1990 Evinrude 70hp E70TLESB that it looks like the stator needs replacing, since it failed every test. The sensor coil on the other hand, hopefully, has just a bad connection. What does that Sensor Coil blue wire A do and how do I trace it. I need advice form the electrical system experts here on the forum. Here are the results of the test the manual calls for of the Charging Coil (Stator) and the Sensor Coil, using the ohmmeter and using a Peak Voltage Tester:

Ohmmeter Tests

Key Switch test pg 3-28 – #4 passed

Charge Coil Test (Stator) page 3-31 – #9 Failed, 350 ohms (specification calls for 480 +-25 ohm),
Charge Coil Test (Stator) pg 3-31 - #10 Failed, 32 ohm (spec 0)

Sensor Coil Test pg 3-33 - #13 - “A” Blue wire Failed OL reading, B&C 12 ohm Passed (all must be 11+-3 ohm)
Sensor Coil Test pg 3-33 - #14 – ABCD Passed no reading (spec - no reading)



Peak Voltage Tests with Digital multimeter and ESI Model 640 DVA Adapter

Charge Coil Test (Stator) pg. 3-30 - #7 Ground Test– terminals “A” 3.8v, “B” 0.2v (spec no reading) Failed. Evinrude Manual says Solution – locate ground and repair or replace stator assembly

Charge Coil Test (Stator) pg. 3-30 - #8 Output Test – 126v (spec 250v) Failed
Solution – check condition of wiring, go to ohmmeter test (Ohmmeter tests failed see above)

Sensor Coil Test pg 3-32 - #11 Ground Test – ABCD passed

Sensor Coil Test pg 3-32 - #11 Output Test – A 0.00, B 1.5v, C 1.78v (spec 0.3v or higher) “A” Failed
Solution – check condition of wiring, if wiring is good, go to ohmmeter test ( A also failed in ohmmeter test, may be wiring problem?)

Charge coil test #10---is that disconnected brown wires to ground test? (I don't have the manual here in front of me). If it is 32 OHMs to ground, disconnected, then it failed miserably. As for the sensors, kind of iffy. I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them till you get the charge coil issue resolved (replace stator or look for brown wires shorted to ground.

B O A T, BROTHER! Break out another thousand........or call Tim's Outboard in Hackensack, go used parts. Probably gonna see some pack issues on the horizon too. 218 682 2331.

I recognize this thread as a continuation of an older one that ended with what the stator-to-ground test should be. Turn your meter on & set to an Ohms test. Touch the two meter leads together and it should read zero Ohms, which is saying there is zero resistance between the leads. Separate the two leads and it should show infinity (too much resistance to measure).

Connect your meter leads to one of the brown charge coil leads and ground. It should show infinity which is saying too much resistance to measure. If it were to show zero, that would mean no resistance to ground---in other words a direct connection to ground (complete failure). Your 32 Ohms is an almost direct connection, and indicates an almost direct connection to ground---NOT good.

I think this is the third post I've come across & replied to on the question provided whereas it has been stated in one manner or another by various members that the stator is faulty and requires replacing... perhaps in not so many words but the reply answer was unmistakable. Puzzling!

You guys are sharper than me, I'd better start eating more mushrooms.......I don't remember. 'Shrooms are supposed to defuse early signs of Alzheimer's as well as provide continued maintenance.

joereeves said:

I think this is the third post I've come across & replied to on the question provided whereas it has been stated in one manner or another by various members that the stator is faulty and requires replacing... perhaps in not so many words but the reply answer was unmistakable. Puzzling!

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These were the last three postings of the other thread that you are referring to Mr. Reeves, and this new thread I started is to complete the other thread without making others have to read through it all as fdrgator rightly complained in the second posting below. We did not come to an absolute conclusion before as you can see:

Klink said:

The other stator tests they have in the manual requires a peak reading voltmeter, I am awaiting delivery of an Electonic Specialties 640 DVA Adapter, so I can also do those tests with my digital multimeter, to double check everything.​

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fdrgator said:

…..Turn your meter on & set to an ohms test. Touch the two meter leads together and it should read zero Ohms, which is saying there is zero resistance between the leads. Separate the two leads and it should show infinity (too much resistance to measure).

Connect your meter leads to one of the brown charge coil leads and ground. It should show infinity which is saying too much resistance to measure. If it were to show zero, that would mean no resistance to ground---in other words a direct connection to ground (complete failure). Your 32 Ohms is an almost direct connection, and indicates an almost direct connection to ground---NOT good.

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Thanks for the explanation, I understand you perfectly. Here are my results above again, taking into consideration what you explained, I changed the specification "spec" to Infinity which my digital ohmmeter displays as 0.L:

#10 Failed, 32 ohm (spec Infinity, 0.L)

The 32 ohms reading is correct for Terminal A, which is the brown wire, but my notes do not show the number for Terminal B, which is the brown and yellow wire, so I am going to check it tomorrow.

I am going to take the flywheel off tomorrow and see what is up in there if anything with the wires or if it is the stator as everything indicates.
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What you will find with most stator systems is that trying to charge a very weak or dead battery with a jump destroys the charging coils and sometimes the power generating coils. When the flywheel is removed examine the coils closely for heat damage.
Alt equipped motors dont have this problem but still not advised to jump start a motor

Curiously, the manual does use the description of "meter must show no continuity (and displays the no continuity sideways 8 symbol in parenthesis) on test 14

but uses the description "Any reading on either test indicates charge coil is grounded" on tests 7,
and uses the description "Any needle movement indicates charge coil or leads are grounded" on test 10

Hoo boy, I'm about to give up. As for test 10, they are talking about an analog multimeter, where the needle will be pointing towards the sideways 8 (infinity) when it is turned on and the leads not connected to anything. Now if you then connect the meter leads between a brown coil lead and ground the needle should stay at the spec infinity, in other words no needle movement If the needle moves away from inifinity (in the direction of zero) the coil or wires are grounded or partially grounded.

Yes, your digital meter will display something like OL or ERR instead of the sideways 8. Same thing

I'm not getting into the other tests because I don't have the manual if front of me to read.

fdrgator said:

Hoo boy, I'm about to give up. I'm not getting into the other tests because I don't have the manual if front of me to read.

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Uh huh... I already did. It's like talking with a Harvard professor whose questioning is designed to catch us off guard in an error for ego purposes. I assumed the next chapter would be obtaining a manual on the meters circuitry to investigate possible circuitry flaws in that field. A few of us have already stated that the stator is faulty.... replace the damn thing! Anything and everything that any of us had to say comes back in a future stated manual oriented questionnaire designed to drag this very simple problem out. I for one visited the proper portion of the sites program to exit the author's area.

fdrgator said:

Hoo boy, I'm about to give up. As for test 10, they are talking about an analog multimeter, where the needle will be pointing towards the sideways 8 (infinity) when it is turned on and the leads not connected to anything. Now if you then connect the meter leads between a brown coil lead and ground the needle should stay at the spec infinity, in other words no needle movement If the needle moves away from inifinity (in the direction of zero) the coil or wires are grounded or partially grounded.

Yes, your digital meter will display something like OL or ERR instead of the sideways 8. Same thing

I'm not getting into the other tests because I don't have the manual if front of me to read.

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Thanks for the further explanation. Many of my postings are for the benefit of others who will read this in the future, so they can more throroughly understand what the experienced are saying. The more thoroughly a thread is explained, the less questions we will have in the future when others use it.

I did the peak voltage tests because of this recommendation that I found online from another forum https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...81674-charging-issue-stator-testing-procedure :

"Ohm testing of outboard electronics is unreliable....you need to get a DVA adapter. Again, I have found Ohm test to be very unreliable when testing outboard electronics...especially the stator. A full DVA test of your entire electronic system is always a good idea when something is wrong. We are still just guessing without the proper DVA test."

Testing for resistance has its place, No one should generalize.

When the generation of current is the ultimate goal and it has to reach specific parameters, then the pulse must be accurately measured. Preliminary tests, however, can be performed with an ohmeter.

If the required resistances are not met, than the necessity of a dva test is minimized. Thereby condemning the component.

When any kind of a coil is expected to produce current, the possible fault of other forces which are applied to that coil in order to produce that current, is always there. An output test is the most reasonable way to come to an accurate conclusion.

Over and above this, however, can be the chance of failure within the coil because of load and internal defects not represented by a simple resistance/ohm test......follow me?

For instance on a low energy ignition system like a 1972 Evinrude, the spark coils may ohm out within parameters, yet arc internally while in operation. This type of failure has puzzled many an amateur mechanic.

Including me.

Took the flywheel off. Took the flywheel nut off with a long 3/4" drive breaker bar, I stopped the flywheel from turning by standing the sides of 1 1/4" steel chisel in the teeth of the flywheel and placed the chisel inside the engine lifting ring. Once the nut was loose, I unscrewed it till it was flush with the top of the shaft and left it there, to protetct the shaft threads and to stop the flywheel from flying off when it snaps loose. I used a cheap Harbor Freight puller to get the flywheel off, there was no place to use a lever to get it out. All I had to buy was three 5/16-24 x 3" grade 8 hex head bolts and washers. Screwed in the puller bolts down as even as I could get them, so the force was not all on one bolt. Then I and tightened down on the puller pressing screw with a socket wrench, then I went at it with a very large Crescent wrench and a pipe extension, again, holding the flywheel with the chisel setup. I tightened it as much as I could and nothing happened. I made high pitch vibrations on the flywheel with a crescent wrench for quite a while and nothing (that it the way use to take off big props under water. You could bend the puller to destruction and the prop would not come out, but if instead you tightened it down before anything bent, and hit the prop edge with a steel tool to make the highest pitch sound you could get, the prop would snap right off). So, I sprayed a pool of PB Blaster on the shaft and left it overnight and went and did a lot of praying. Next day, today, I went in the afternoon and it was still stuck, so I tightened it down further, as far as I could, about 1/8+ of a turn. That was all I could turn it even with a pipe extension. Then a spark went off and the thing snapped loose. Thanked God, and took the stator out.

The problem is that both the brown wire and brown&yellow wires are crushed and their insulation is brittle and cracked, I can peel it off just touching it. There was not much wire left there, I'm really surprised that it put out as much as it did. Everything else on the Stator looks great. I ordered a new stator.

Amen.

To set things straight for others who read this in the future, since fdrgator questioned the 32ohm reading, I went back and tested it again, and he was right, it actually passed, here are the corrected numbers taken before I finally removed the Stator:

Ohmmeter Tests

Charge Coil Test (Stator) pg 3-31 - #10 Passed terminal A & B 0L (Spec 0L, infinity)

fdrgator said:

Klink had asked : What do the two failed terminal "A"results of the Sensor Coil test mean?

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….As for the sensors, kind of iffy. I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them till you get the charge coil issue resolved ….

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Today I took the sensor coil off and looked at the blue "A" wire and all the wires of the sensor and they all look brand new all the way till they get to the 4 pin Amphenol connector where the one inch long section that is not covered by electrical tubing is faded to where you can't distinguish the colors. Nothing else to do there, I re-installed it and will see if the stator fixes that sensor wire failing. It looks like the wire is for the S.L.O.W system.