Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1997 Evinrude115hp Port Head overheating E115TSLEUA

G

G&G

New member
First, Thanks for any advice anyone provides. I have completely rebuild the engine, fresh bore and a complete rebuild package. I have replaced the Impeller, and thermostats, however the port head keeps overheating when everything is together. I have good water flow from the tattletail, but nothing coming out of the upper exhaust ports on the midsection. I have ran the engine both on the hose and barrel. If I remove the thermostat housing and let the engine run it does not overheat. The water flow from both heads appear uniform but the water coming from the port head feels slightly warmer to the touch than the starboard. If I plug the Port head water flow with my finger it overheats right away, but doing the same thing with the starboard it says cool. The rubber defectors were present and appeared to be ok during the rebuild. Could the head be bad??? I pulled the head cover to make ensure it was free and not blocked but it was very clean. Am I missing something??? This isn't my first outboard rebuild. I have done several that were successful but still relatively new to outboard rebuilds. Thanks Again for any help.
 
I have just triple checked the head gaskets and they are both installed properly. What photos would assist in diagnosing my issue? I am game for anything at this point.
 
G&G said:
The rubber defectors were present and appeared to be ok during the rebuild. Could the head be bad??? I pulled the head cover to make ensure it was free and not blocked but it was very clean. Am I missing something??? This isn't my first outboard rebuild. I have done several that were successful but still relatively new to outboard rebuilds. Thanks Again for any help.
Click to expand...

You pulled the head covers only? How about the heads did you remove them completely and clean the water passages inside the engine around the cylinders? Are the deflectors in the right place? I have a 115hr 1990 and I had to do a lot of scraping around those passages. If I remember correctly there are also some small holes in the cylinder passages that need to be cleared.

Get yourself an infrared temperature gun like this http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...-Thermometer-Temperature-Gun-a-Must-Have-Tool and see where it is getting hot. The closer the infrared dot is to the spot you are testing, the more accurate it is as to pinpointing the location, put it as close as you can get, 1" if possible.

Maybe your alarm is bad? The infrared gun will tell you.
 
********************
(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

********************
 
Back
Top