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1997 E175EXEUC System Check Alarm

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Perdidokeydog

New member
This is my first post, so bear with me....

I’m a long time boater, but only recently started working on my own outboard.

Started getting an intermittent alarm last season. Assumed it was temperature (didn’t check the light which was dumb). I’ve since replaced the water pump and the thermostats. Tell tale is strong.

Still getting an intermittent alarm, but it’s not accompanied by a light ( I checked this time.).

I learned to pay attention during the self test when you turn it on. Three lights turn on the the check engine doesn’t.

Any suggestions what what I should check or replace next?

Thanks!
 
Simply using the word intermittent could lead us in two directions. Which of the follow?

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(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.
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By intermittent I mean that it’s a steady constant beep that usually turns itself off after 10-20 seconds. I can’t determine any rhyme or reason to when it beeps. But whenever it does it is steady.
 
Okay.... a steady/constant beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.

With the horn beeping steady, remove the TAN wire from the horn.

If the beeping continues to sound with that wire removed... the horn is faulty.

If the beeping stops immediately when that wire is removed, either one of the sensors at the powerhead has failed, grounding out... OR... the TAN wire has ground out somewhere... OR... the engine is overheating or has encountered a fuel restriction.
 
Since the “check engine” light does not illuminate during the self test, is it safe to assume the problem is with that circuit specifically?

Is it possible the system check gauge / tach needs to be replaced, or is the problem more likely to be somewhere with the wiring or the vacuum switch perhaps?
 
They had a lot of problems with that gauge…..I myself would inspect the horn and the oil level sensor in oil tank.
 
Perdidokeydog said:
Since the “check engine” light does not illuminate during the self test, is it safe to assume the problem is with that circuit specifically? Is it possible the system check gauge / tach needs to be replaced, or is the problem more likely to be somewhere with the wiring or the vacuum switch perhaps?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately (Or fortunately perhaps) I retired before the light system came into being so I can't speak for any problems in that area. My remarks pertain to how the warning horn functions only.
 
I will definitely check the horn because it sounds simple and inexpensive to replace if necessary. But I’m suspicious of the check engine light not working at all...

i know that the “low oil” “no oil” and “hot” lights are working. When the horn goes off, none of the lights come on. That makes me think that either 1) the horn is faulty as suggested, or 2) it’s a check engine alarm and the light doesn’t come on because the light doesn’t work.

Is is there any risk to running the engine with the vacuum switch unplugged? If I do that and run for a while without any alarm, that might suggest the sensor is working correctly and I have an actual flow restriction.

Thoughts?
 
There's no danger to the engine if you disconnect the TAN wire leading to the Vacuum Sensor... BUT...........

If you actually have a fuel restriction... the fuel primer bulb would have a tendency to go flat and of course the engine would lose power due to the lack of fuel.
 
Thanks Joe. I think I’m going to do that (disconnect the vacuum sensor) and run it for a while. Whether the alarm sounds or doesn’t, I’ll learn something.
 
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